Sierra Nevada
Approach
Hike east from the Ahwahnee Hotel parking lot, then north and up to the base of the Column. |
Route Description
This excellent 12 pitch route is a great introduction to big wall climbing. This route was originally climbed by Royal Robbins and Glen Denny in 1969. While no longer A4, it follows a wildly exposed classic line up the Column.Please consult one of the topo guides listed under books for a complete route description.
Pitch 1 - starting right of the South Face, a 150' pitch ( 5.10a or C1 followed by 5.6, then 5.11 or C1 ) leads to a stance at a hidden ledge. Pitch 2 - a 90' C2 pitch leads to a sling belay. Pitch 3 - a C1 pitch leads to Anchorage Ledge. Pitch 4 -6 - discontinuous cracks and bolts lead up the blank wall ( hooks needed ) to the " Strange Dihedral ". Pitch 7 climbs this formation to a stance. Pitch 8 - tension traverse right to a thin C2 crack, then climb to Tapir Terrace. Climb a corner to a right facing dihedral. Two more pitches lead to the top.
For descent info, see the North Dome Gully info page -North Dome Gully
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