Red Obelisk, 5.10b-5.11d

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 34.04386°N / 116.14304°W
Activities Activities: Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
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Overview/Approach

Boogers on a Lampshade, 5.10b*
Boogers on a Lampshade, 5.10b*

For as many routes as there are in Joshua Tree National Park, towers are not as numerous as they are at sandstone climbing destinations.  Therefore, when I come across one, I typically climb it regardless of how short or good the routes might be.  Red Obelisk is one of the more aesthetic towers in the park with a glistening red patina finish on its southwest face.  There are three routes on the tower with two of them on the red face.  The third is an unnamed route on the southeast face.  It is fully bolted and climbs through cool looking, but grainy, scoops.  The right side arete on the red face is Boogers on a Lampshade, 5.10b, and is the easiest route to the fixed rap atop the tower.  It involves slinging a bomber chickenhead to assist two modern bolts (2024).  The crux at the grade is through the first bolt.  Red Obelisk Arete, 5.11d, is on the left side arete of this face and is fully bolted (3).

Park at the South Wonderland trailhead and follow the main trail into the Wonderland past the pink house.  Continue on the main trail in the wash and take the rightward option when it splits towards Surprise and Freak Brothers domes.  Freak Brothers is one of the more obvious domes in the Wonderland with a horizontal dike crossing almost the entirety of its south face.  Head north up a wash at the west end of Freak Brothers, towards Pea Brain.  The Red Obelisk tower is directly in the wash hovering over the trail to Pea Brain.

Routes Listed West to East

Red Obelisk Arete- 5.11d/

Boogers on a Lampshade- 35’-5.10b*/ The Red Obelisk is a cool short tower located near the wash below Freak Brothers’ west face and Pea Brain.  Climb the right side arete of the red colored side of the tower.  Climb through two bolts and one chicken head that can be slung.  This is an easy 5.10b lead by Jtree standards.  The first bolt protects the crux move well which is a slab and edge crux.  From there it finishes below grade through another bolt and slung chicken head to the summit of the tower and a fixed rap.  Route gets mostly sun.  Dow

Unnamed- 5.10c/



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