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Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Avila, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.19000°N / 4.61°W

Object Title: Torozo

Elevation: 6646 ft / 2026 m



Created/Edited: Jun 26, 2002 / Dec 15, 2004

Object ID: 151045

Hits: 8602 

Page Score: 88.19%  - 26 Votes 

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This mountain is composed of three summits, the north summit of Torozo (2.026m), The torozo and the Albujea, although the most characteristic it is that of the Torozo, also called "Espolon de la hora." 
It’s a granitic mountain, ideal to practice the rock climbing, with numerous roads of different difficulties. 
It belongs to the sierra de Gredos solid oriental, which finishes with the "Puerto del Pico" (1.395m). 
The solid of the Torozo dominates predominant the valley of the five Villages. From these, Mombeltran, Santa cruz del valle, San Esteban, Villarejo and Cuevas del valle, we contemplate the great mass of the solid one of the Torozo.
Another de the components of the solid one, the Albujea, is a great next flagstone to the port with a very compact configuration, only broken by some scars left by big removed blocks. 
The technique employee mainly to climb on the refined badges of this wall it is the adherence.
This area is suitable to practice the escalade in rock. together with the Galayos these mountains constitute a relating one for the climbers, being of those but well-known in the Iberian Peninsula.

The half height is of: 200 meters 
The maximum height is of: 380 meters 
Number of Routes: 77 
Routes until V: 15% 
Routes of V+ at 6c+: 70% 
Routes of 7a at 7c+: 15% 
Routes of eighth: 0% 
Better Time: Spring and autumn 

Getting There

To access to this mountain we will have to arrive until the Puerto del Pico, located in the km 55 of the national highway 502 in Avila. 

From Madrid: 

By car
By the N-V until Talavera de la Reina we take the deviation for Arenas de San Pedro’s c-502 direction until arriving to Ramacastañas, where we continue to the right until arriving to the Puerto del Pico crossing the Barranco de las 5 villas.

By bus
Company La Sepulvedana. daily buses (13,67 € go and turn). from the south station of buses 

08:30 10:00 13:00 16:00 17:00 18:00 19:30 20:30

This bus leaves us in Arenas de San Pedro where taken another that takes us to Cuevas del Valle. ( price note 1 € single going. ) 

11:00 15:00 15:15 19:15 21:45

Schedules of friday. For other days to consult in 91-5304800 or in  www.lasepulvedana.es
Once in Cuevas del Valle we will go up walking for the roman roadway or taken a taxi until the Puerto del Pico. 

From Avila

By car
For C-502 o'clock directly until the Puerto del Pico. 

By bus
Company Muñoz travel. from the bus station of Avila. We descend in Puerto del Pico.

15:00 daily 
17:30 friday (single from October to June)

Red Tape

No one yet, only it is forbidden the one camped free. Loose animals cannot be taken because they scare to the local endemic fauna "Capra Hispanica victoriae." Mainly not to LEAVE GARBAGE, to maintain clean the mountain.

When To Climb

The best time in the year to climb this mountain is the one understood between the months of May and October, although this I finish September it is the suitable one for the escalade due to the absence of rains and to the soft temperatures.

 Gradient of temperatures:

  Stockings Temperatures Extreme Temperatures
Winter 5ºC ~ 8ºC 36ºC ~  44ºC
Summer 22ºC ~  25ºC -6ºC ~  -8ºC


Camping site of Prados Abiertos. Second category. Open the whole year. Located in the C-502, km. 72. Tf: 920386061 

parceled camping site offers you seem them for season, 
it accepts caravans, 
each parcel is of 60/100 m2 
apartaments: 7 
bungalows: 4 
locations: 105 
showers of it dilutes cold: 17 
showers of it dilutes hot: 17 
washbasins of it dilutes cold: 37 
washbasins of it dilutes hot: 10 
laundry of it dilutes cold: 16 
laundry of it dilutes hot: 3 
sink of it dilutes cold: 8 
sink of it dilutes hot: 9 
safe, telephones, plugs, butane, wc, chemical wc, drainage of caravans, washer 
pool, infantile pool, tennis, rent of bicycles, 
mature night: 3.00 eur 
boy night: 2.00 eur 
car night: 2,70 eur 
moto noche: 2,35 eur 
caravan night: 3.20 eur 
spread night: 3.20 eur 
autocaravana noche: 5.00 eur 
electricity night: 2,50 eur 
i price it parcels: 10.10 eur 
it includes: car, caravan, electricity, 0 adults, 0 children,

In the mountain this forbidden the one camped free. We can sleep outdoors in the base of the mountain. (bivouacs).

Foremost peaks

  • LA CABRILLA (1.948 m / 6.391 ft)
  • RISCO DE LAS MORILLAS (1.998 m / 6.555 ft)
  • PUERTO DEL PEÓN (2.051 m / 6.729 ft)
  • LA CASA ( 1.845 m / 6.053 ft)
  • PEÑA DEL MEDIODIA ( 2.224 m / 7.296 ft)
  • LA MIRA (2.341 m / 7.680 ft)
  • LOS GALAYOS ( 2.216 m / 7.270 ft)

Maps and sketches

El Torozo. Climbing Routes

In The Torozo the roads are of classic court in an alpine atmosphere (2.026 meters the North Torozo) reflecting for dihedral and affordable fissures. This section in turn is divided in several sections, which show us different climbing routes in the Torozo. Each one of the sections belongs together with a picture, which is noted for not making a mistake of route. All the pictures are taken of the Desnivel publishing, with their corresponding graphics of the routes.

Picture nº1

Name Height Difficulty First Ascension
1 Cada vez que ladras cobras 200 meters L1:V/6a, L2:V, L3:V, L4:V, L5:6a, L6:V, L7:6a, L8:IV+, L.   
2 Espolón oeste 200 meters L1:V+/6a, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:IV, L6:6a, L7:6a+  
3 Pan con membrillo 200 meters L1:V, L2:IV+, L3:V, L4:V, L5:V, L6:V, L7:6aL8:IV+ June 1980 by Anastasio Viejo and Jose Manuel Vilches
4 Fisura sinuosa 200 meters L1:IV+, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:IV, L5:IV, L6:IV+  
5 Vía del friend nº1 200 meters L1:IV+, L2:V, L3:IV, L4:V, L5:V, L6:V, L7:IV, L8:IV, L9 March 1982 by Tino Nuñez, Guiñales and Goli Serrano.

Picture nº2

Name Height Difficulty First Ascension
1 Teorema discontínuo 150 meters L1:6a+, resto máx. V+/6a  
2 Mono de birra 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:6a, L4:6b  
3 Cara niña 150 meters L1:V-, L2:V+, L3:V, L4:6a+, L5:IV+, L6:IV 04-09-1982 by Jose Luis Arias and Rafael Hidalgo
4 Doble cara mortal 150 meters L1:V+/A0, L2:V/A0, L3:6a/A0, L4:6a/A0, L5:IV+, L6:IV+, L 20-03-1983 by Jose Luis Arias, Rafael Hidalgo and Rafael Valero
5 Cara cartón 150 meters L1:6b/A0, L2:V+, L3:6a, L4:IV, L5:IV 29-01-1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Francisco Burdalo
6 Muñecas de porcelana 150 meters L1:A1/6a, L2:6a, L3:IV+, L4:V 7  
7 Variante por la cara 80 meters IV+, IV+, V, IV Spring 1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Rafael Hidalgo
8 Variante monchoman 150 meters L1:V, L2:V  

Picture nº3

Name Height Difficulty First Ascension
1 Pan con membrillo 200 meters    
2 Fisura sinuosa 200 meters    
3 Campomanes/Martín 200 meters L1:IV, L2:IV+, L3:IV, L4:III, L5:V+, L6:6a, L7:IV, L8:IV   
4 Un viaje desconocido 200 meters L1:IV+, L2:V, L3:V, L4:III, L5:V+, L6:IV, L7:IV April 1986 by Gabriel Martín, Jaime Garrigós, Angeles, Juan José Fernández and Belén Molina.
5 Vía del friend 200 meters L1:6b/A0, L2:V+, L3:6a, L4:IV, L5:IV 29-01-1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Francisco Burdalo
6 Guirles/Campos 200 meters L1:IV, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:6b, L6:6b, L7:IV. Summer 1977 by Daniel Guirles and Luis Campos
7 Babino pan y vino 150 meters L1:V+, L2:V, L3:6a+, L4:6a+, L5:6a, L6:V+   
8 Variante de salida 150 meters 6b  
9 Gran diedro 200 meters L1:IV, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:V+, L6:IV.  1972 by Emilio García Viel and Eduardo Sánchez

Picture nº4

Name Height Difficulty First Ascension
1 Arroz pegao 250 meters L1: 6b+, L2:IV, L3:6a, L4:A0/7a, L5:A2/V+   
2 Vía de los amigos 250 meters L1:IV+, L2:IV+/V, L3:V, L4:V+, L5:V+, L6:V, L7:A2/V+ Spring 1982 by Angel Luis Muñoz and Manolo Cardero 
3 Tangerine dreams 250 meters L1:IV, L2:V, L3:A0/6c, L4:V, L5:6a+, L6:6a, L7:V, L8:A0/ 29-05-1983 by Manolo Cardero and José Puch.
4 Siniestro total 250 meters L1:IV+, L2:6b, L3:6a, L4:6c, L5:6b, L6:IV+, L7:6b, L8:6ª 30-01-1983 by Enrique Alvarez, Carlos Arroyo and Jose Luis Arias.
5 La turururu 250 meters L1:V, L2:7a   
6 Rivera de curtidores 250 meters L1:6a, L2:A2+/6a   
7 Vía del cala 250 meters L1:A0/7a, L2:6a, L3:6c+/7a, L4:6c+, L5:6c, L6:6ª June 1993 by Gabriél Martín, cristobal Real, Juanjo Fernández and Belén Molina.

Picture nº5

Name Height Difficulty First Ascension
1 Vía del cala 250 meters    
2 Moby Dick 250 meters L1:6b+, L2:V, L3:6c+/A0, L4:A0/6c+, L5:V, L6:6a+.  01-11-1981 by Juan Aznar and Daniel Arroyo.
3 La Lumi 250 meters L1:6b+, L2:V, L3:6b, L4:6a, L5:6b/A0, L6:A0/6a+, L7:V January 1984 by Jose M. Vilches, Rubén Prendes, Octavio A. Viejo, Juan Muñoz and Jose M. Adrados.
4 Juanito el 15 250 meters L1:V+, L2:6b, L3:6a, L4:6a, L5:6b+, L6:A0/7a, L7:6a+  
5 Luisa la Garrona 250 meters L1:6a+, L2:6b, L3:V+, L4:6a+, L5:6a   
6 Drácula 250 meters L1:6a+, L2:6b, L3:A0/7a, L4:6c+, L5:V+, L6:V+, L7:V+   
7 Galayos 250 meters L1:IV+, L2:IV, L3:III, L4:V, L5:V+, L6:V+, L7:V Spring 1979 by Estanislao Zamora and José Ramón Pérez
8 Siniestro total      
9 La turururu      
10 Rivera de curtidores      

La Albujea. Climbing routes

La Albujea, formerly call the "La pared de Alberjal", is a great badge of difficulty that remembers to the Helmet of the from Madrid Pedriza, and usually less frequented that The Torozo, since its equipment is not in the line of security prevailing today in day.

Picture nº6

Name Height Difficulty First Ascension
1 Garrapate free 150 meters L1:V+, L2:V, L3:III  
2 Vía Solé 150 meters L1:V, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:IV
3 La verde 150 meters L1:V+, L2:V, L3:V, L4:IV
4 Carmes 150 meters L1:6a,+, L2:V, L3:IV, L4:III
5 Maneras de vivir 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+ 
6 Variante de entrada directa 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+ 
7 La cicatriz 150 meters 6b
8 Ovaladas blancas 150 meters L1:A2/6b, L2:6a+, L3:6b, L4:III
9 Wanchos 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:A1/V, L3:V+
10 La danza del silencio 120 meters L1:6a, L2:6a+, L3:A0/6b, L4:V 10-11-1991 by Mariano Rituerto and Angel Lozano
11 Tostadez mental 87 meters L1:6c, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:V September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente
12 Vía del pelos 40 meters 6b
13 Juegos peligrosos 150 meters L1:6c+, L2:6a, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:6b September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente.
14 Muertos agradecidos 160 meters L1:6a, L2:6b, L3:V, L4:6a+, L5:IV+, L6:6b, L7:V 17-06-1984 by Juan Carlos Guichot and Jose A. Fernández
15 Serpiente blanca 150 meters L1:IV. L2:A0/6c, L3:IV+, L4:V, L5:6a, L6:A2/6a, L7:V 23-05-1982 by Javier Pulido, Julio Menéndez andJuan Carlos Guichot
16 Paranoia contínua 150 meters L1:7a, L2:7a, L3:6b, L4:IV, L5:6c+/A2, L6:6ª
17 Te apellidas fiambre 150 meters L1:7a+, L2:6a+, L3:V, L4:A0/6c, L5:IV+
18 Aturdido y confuso 130 meters L1:6b+, L2:6a, L3:IV+, L4:IV+, L5:IV+ 20-03-1983 by Carlos Arroyo and Enrique Álvarez
19 Ferrería de Arenas o más vale maña que fuerza 120 meters L1:6c, L2:IV+/V 25-10-1981 by Mariano Rituerto, Vicente Hernández, Angel Rituerto, Ricardo P. Gómez, Jesús García and Jose Manuel Navarro.
20 Capitán viajes 130 meters L1:6b, L2:V, L3:V+, L4:A0/IV+. Spring 1992 by Jose A. Fernández
21 Guadarrama 130 meters L1:IV, L2:IV+, L3:V, L4:IV+, L5:A1/V Summer 1980 by Javier Valentín and Isaías
22 Pasto de cabras 130 meters L1:III, L2:III+, L3:IV, L4:IV, L5:IV, L6:IV
23 El muro de Meli 130 meters L1:III, L2:III+, L3:II, L4:IV+, L5:V+/A1, L6:6c/A0, L7:6

Picture nº7

Name Height Difficulty First Ascension
1 Bordillo 100 meters 6c  
2 Bordillo 100 meters 7a
3 Bordillo 100 meters 6a+
4 Destrepe filón 110 meters II
5 La mama escaladora 105 meters V-
6 La pañoleta, el bordón, y el cuatrobollos 110 meters IV+
7 Desconocida 110 meters V
8 Garrapata free 120 meters V+
9 Isa 125 meters III 14-11-1976 by Alejandro Muñoz and Angel Rituerto
10 Solo integral Josechu 120 meters 6a
11 Sole 100 meters 6b 30-06-1990 by Mariano Rituerto and Gregorio Lozano
12 La verde 130 meters V+ 22-11-1981 by Mariano Rituerto, Angel Rituerto and Jesús García
13 Aspitos 70 meters 6a
14 Carmes 140 meters 6a+ 13-05-1984 by Mariano Rituerto, Fernando Pinar and Luis Fernando Cajal.
15 Lagarto pinto 70 meters 6b+
16 Maneras de vivir 140 meters 6a+ 23-05-1982 by “La vasca de la prosperidad”

Notes and Warnings

The granite is very compact. In The Torozo the fissures and the dihedral ones are plentiful, with some occasional badge. On the contrary, The Albujea is a badge of adherence in the one that occasionally will find quartz glasses, small “regletas” and flagstones. Classic and alpine court roads in The Torozo, the same as their neighbor, the Torozo North summit. And adventure roads on badge in The Albujea. In The Albujea it is necessary to dominate the escalade of adherence and it demands a good level. The Torozo is presented more affordable for its variety, difficulty and number of routes than they reflect mainly for dihedral and fissures, we will sometimes find a little these more dirty of the habitual thing depending on the number of repetitions with those that counts that itinerary during the year, that which doesn't mean that the road is not boa and advisable but rather it is an area little visited. The roads of The Albujea are assured with burins or espits or both, but many of these anchorages are old or they move away enough. For The Torozo it is necessary a friends game and another of “fisureros”, since the land is purely alpine, although there are already many roads with the meetings installed, mainly in the southeast face. It will be enough strings of 55 meters, except in the “Luisa la Garrona”, where we need 60 meters. Although they form oneself solid, The Albujea, The Torozo and their North summit are clearly differentiated and separated by two big channels, guided respectively toward the Southwest and south. The first one divides The Albujea and the North summit and the second this last one and The Torozo. In The Albujea the roads go from the V+ to the 7a+/7b, prevailing the 6b/6c. The degrees are quite homogeneous in all the routes. Some itineraries are exposed by the state of the anchorages and the distance among them. It suits to dominate the degree of the road that we climb. Nevertheless there are roads that can be made peacefully. In The Torozo the itineraries embrace from the V to the 7a+, being plentiful fissures mainly and dihedral from V+ at 6b. More affordable when existing the possibility of frank autoasegurement. In the North summit of The Torozo the routes go from the V to the 6c, affordable but very little fixed equipment, some nail or occasional espit.

Different climbing degrees in rock. Conversion factors

This is a brief description of the different escalade degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors

This is a brief description of the different climbing degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors. A road is delimited according to a scale of very precise difficulty. The different difficulties appear as the escalade evolves sportly. Each school, each country has elaborated its own scale of difficulties that can translate himself in a scale of degrees. However it is not necessary to follow this scale with all accuracy, the gradation of an escalade road is not but that an evaluation of the wall, therefore this means in it finishes instance it is to the climber's service.

Australian UIAA French YDS NCCS UK.Adj. UK.Tech. RSA Saxon Czech Norw. Swed. V-grade
10 1 1 5.2   easy     I        
11 2 2 5.3 m II  
12 3 3 5.4 d III  
4 4 5.5 vhd IV  
13 E  
5- 5.6 ms V  
14 5 5.7 F7 4a e1




























F1 VI 5- 5-  
15 5+ 5+ 4b VIIa 5 5  
5.8 F8 F2  
16 6- 4c 6 5+ 5+ V0-
17 5.9 F9 5a F3 7 V0
6 6a



6- 6-
18 VIIc
6+ 5.10a F10 5b G1 7a
19 6 6
5.10b VIIIa V0+
20 7- 5c G2 7b


5.10c 6+ 6+
21 7 5.10d F11 VIIIb V1
5.11a G3 7c 7-
22 7+ 6c



6a   7- V2
23 5.11b H1
8- F13 IXa V3
24 5.11c 7



25 8 5.11d IXb 7
6b 7+
5.12a V4
26 8+ F14 H3 IXc 7+
5.12b 8-


9- 5.12c F15 Xa
27 8 8- V6
9 7c



5.12d I1 Xb
28 8 V7
5.13a F16 V8
29 9+ I2 Xc 8+
5.13b 7a
30 8a


10- I3 9- 8-
31 5.13c V10
32 10 8b


5.13d J 9- V11
33 5.14a  
10+ 9



5.14b 9+ V12
11- V13
34 5.14c 9+
35 11 5.14d V14


It will be of great utility the following internet link, where besides being able to see the different escalade degrees in the different scales, we will have an explanation of each one of the scales as well as a dictionary of escalade terms.

"Climbing dictionary and climbing ratings and grades"

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Historical point of view of the environment

The solid of "El Torozo" is in the near of the solid oriental of the mountain of Gredos. You arrives until him through the Puerto del Pico. This area besides being very well-known for those fond of the mountain in general and to the escalade in rock in particular, it is characterized by their great historical importance. The Puerto del Pico has been unavoidable step for salesmen and merchants that trafficked among the two Castillas. Already in times of Celtic and Vetones in the Iberian peninsula this route was used. 

Their importance but significant that acquires it in the time of the Roman conquest of the Iberian peninsula. It was in this time where you builds a work of big span to facilitate the step of travelers and merchants, The Roman Roadway. 
The first roads obeyed strategic reasons mainly, to facilitate the conquest and later domain from the incorporate territories to the Empire. Little by little their left knitting a vast net that became vehicle transmitter of a language, a religion, an art and some customs that today in day shares most of the mediterranean countries. 

The remains that are even conserved of the Roman roadway of the Puerto del Pico lapse from Cuevas del Valle until the high of the port. Although the conservation state is good, at the moment it has been developed a restoration project and recovery of the Roadway. For but information:


One of their more significant uses was the canalization of the seasonal displacements of the flocks from the high lands of the north to the meadows and valleys of Extremadura and Andalucia, where the livestock could find food during the winter, when the grasses of the north were covered with snow., called TRANSHUMANCIA. 

In function of the trashumancia left creating an extensive net of real narrow canyons, sidewalks and lines, about 125.000 kilometers of roads without paving, with approximate widths of 75 meters, 37,5 meters and 21 meters, respectively, and with vegetation so that the animals went feeding until arriving to the "descansaderos" of the meadows, avoiding the cultivated fields and the populations. 

Many of these routes were juxtaposed to wearing shoes Roman and old roads. Good test of it is it the central tract of the Western Cañada Leonesa that takes advantage of this Roman roadway of the Puerto del Pico to cross the Sierra of Gredos. This narrow canyon had its origin in the mounts of the north of León, it went by Medina de Rioseco, Tordesillas and Medina del campo, it crossed the county of Ávila and it descended until the south of Extremadura for Navalmoral de la Mata, Trujillo and Don Benito. In Ávila the journey was for Arévalo, San Pedro del Arroyo, Muñico, Puerto de Menga, Puerto del Pico, Mombeltrán, Cuevas del Valle and Ramacastañas.

Today in day if we ascend for the road of the Puerto del Pico we will even meet with the enormous livestock flocks that ascend to the grasslands of the mountain in the summery period and they go down to the extremeñas plains in the winter period.

External Links

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-5 of 5    
Diego SahagúnUntitled Comment

Diego Sahagún

Voted 10/10

The works are now from Km 25 to Km 39 (27 April 2005).
Posted May 3, 2005 6:19 am
mpbroUntitled Comment


Voted 10/10


In English, "route" is a better word than "road" to describe the various climbing routes on this mountain.

I suppose that in Spanish, the word "camino" has a dual meaning.

Posted Oct 1, 2002 2:55 pm
Diego SahagúnUntitled Comment

Diego Sahagún

Voted 10/10

There are little works of widening in the A-6, from Km 25 to Km 35 (14 Jan, 2005).
Posted Jan 19, 2005 8:01 am
Diego SahagúnUntitled Comment

Diego Sahagún

Voted 10/10

The works are now from Km 25 to Km 39 (27 April 2005).
Posted May 3, 2005 6:19 am
Diego SahagúnUntitled Comment

Diego Sahagún

Voted 10/10

There are 2 refuges on the slopes of Torozo. One is placed at approximately 1.450 m, on the trail to Torozo from Puerto del Pico. The other one is located at approximately 1.915 m, above Fuente de los Cervunales and below Collado del Risco (1.935 m). Both are a little bit dirty but they are good in bad weather situations
Posted May 24, 2005 7:29 am

Viewing: 1-5 of 5