This mountain is composed of three summits, the north summit of Torozo (2.026m), The torozo and the Albujea, although the most characteristic it is that of the Torozo, also called "Espolon de la hora."
It’s a granitic mountain, ideal to practice the rock climbing, with numerous roads of different difficulties.
It belongs to the sierra de Gredos solid oriental, which finishes with the "Puerto del Pico" (1.395m).
The solid of the Torozo dominates predominant the valley of the five Villages. From these, Mombeltran, Santa cruz del valle, San Esteban, Villarejo and Cuevas del valle, we contemplate the great mass of the solid one of the Torozo.
Another de the components of the solid one, the Albujea, is a great next flagstone to the port with a very compact configuration, only broken by some scars left by big removed blocks.
The technique employee mainly to climb on the refined badges of this wall it is the adherence.
This area is suitable to practice the escalade in rock. together with the Galayos these mountains constitute a relating one for the climbers, being of those but well-known in the Iberian Peninsula.
The half height is of: 200 meters
The maximum height is of: 380 meters
Number of Routes: 77
Routes until V: 15%
Routes of V+ at 6c+: 70%
Routes of 7a at 7c+: 15%
Routes of eighth: 0%
Better Time: Spring and autumn
To access to this mountain we will have to arrive until the Puerto del Pico, located in the km 55 of the national highway 502 in Avila.
By the N-V until Talavera de la Reina we take the deviation for Arenas de San Pedro’s c-502 direction until arriving to Ramacastañas, where we continue to the right until arriving to the Puerto del Pico crossing the Barranco de las 5 villas.
Company La Sepulvedana. daily buses (13,67 € go and turn). from the south station of buses
This bus leaves us in Arenas de San Pedro where taken another that takes us to Cuevas del Valle. ( price note 1 € single going. )
Schedules of friday. For other days to consult in 91-5304800 or in www.lasepulvedana.es.
Once in Cuevas del Valle we will go up walking for the roman roadway or taken a taxi until the Puerto del Pico.
For C-502 o'clock directly until the Puerto del Pico.
Company Muñoz travel. from the bus station of Avila. We descend in Puerto del Pico.
17:30 friday (single from October to June)
No one yet, only it is forbidden the one camped free. Loose animals cannot be taken because they scare to the local endemic fauna "Capra Hispanica victoriae." Mainly not to LEAVE GARBAGE, to maintain clean the mountain.
When To Climb
The best time in the year to climb this mountain is the one understood between the months of May and October, although this I finish September it is the suitable one for the escalade due to the absence of rains and to the soft temperatures.
Gradient of temperatures:
5ºC ~ 8ºC
36ºC ~ 44ºC
22ºC ~ 25ºC
-6ºC ~ -8ºC
Camping site of Prados Abiertos. Second category. Open the whole year. Located in the C-502, km. 72. Tf: 920386061
parceled camping site offers you seem them for season,
it accepts caravans,
each parcel is of 60/100 m2
showers of it dilutes cold: 17
showers of it dilutes hot: 17
washbasins of it dilutes cold: 37
washbasins of it dilutes hot: 10
laundry of it dilutes cold: 16
laundry of it dilutes hot: 3
sink of it dilutes cold: 8
sink of it dilutes hot: 9
safe, telephones, plugs, butane, wc, chemical wc, drainage of caravans, washer
pool, infantile pool, tennis, rent of bicycles,
mature night: 3.00 eur
boy night: 2.00 eur
car night: 2,70 eur
moto noche: 2,35 eur
caravan night: 3.20 eur
spread night: 3.20 eur
autocaravana noche: 5.00 eur
electricity night: 2,50 eur
i price it parcels: 10.10 eur
it includes: car, caravan, electricity, 0 adults, 0 children,
In the mountain this forbidden the one camped free. We can sleep outdoors in the base of the mountain. (bivouacs).
LA CABRILLA (1.948 m / 6.391 ft)
RISCO DE LAS MORILLAS (1.998 m / 6.555 ft)
PUERTO DEL PEÓN (2.051 m / 6.729 ft)
LA CASA ( 1.845 m / 6.053 ft)
PEÑA DEL MEDIODIA ( 2.224 m / 7.296 ft)
LA MIRA (2.341 m / 7.680 ft)
LOS GALAYOS ( 2.216 m / 7.270 ft)
RISCOS DE VILLAREJO
Maps and sketches
El Torozo. Climbing Routes
In The Torozo the roads are of classic court in an alpine atmosphere (2.026 meters the North Torozo) reflecting for dihedral and affordable fissures. This section in turn is divided in several sections, which show us different climbing routes in the Torozo. Each one of the sections belongs together with a picture, which is noted for not making a mistake of route. All the pictures are taken of the Desnivel publishing, with their corresponding graphics of the routes.
Cada vez que ladras cobras
L1:V/6a, L2:V, L3:V, L4:V, L5:6a, L6:V, L7:6a, L8:IV+, L.
L1:V+/6a, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:IV, L6:6a, L7:6a+
Pan con membrillo
L1:V, L2:IV+, L3:V, L4:V, L5:V, L6:V, L7:6aL8:IV+
June 1980 by Anastasio Viejo and Jose Manuel Vilches
Spring 1979 by Estanislao Zamora and José Ramón Pérez
Rivera de curtidores
La Albujea. Climbing routes
La Albujea, formerly call the "La pared de Alberjal", is a great badge of difficulty that remembers to the Helmet of the from Madrid Pedriza, and usually less frequented that The Torozo, since its equipment is not in the line of security prevailing today in day.
L1:V+, L2:V, L3:III
L1:V, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:IV
L1:V+, L2:V, L3:V, L4:IV
L1:6a,+, L2:V, L3:IV, L4:III
Maneras de vivir
L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+
Variante de entrada directa
L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+
L1:A2/6b, L2:6a+, L3:6b, L4:III
L1:6a+, L2:A1/V, L3:V+
La danza del silencio
L1:6a, L2:6a+, L3:A0/6b, L4:V
10-11-1991 by Mariano Rituerto and Angel Lozano
L1:6c, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:V
September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente
Vía del pelos
L1:6c+, L2:6a, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:6b
September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente.
L1:6a, L2:6b, L3:V, L4:6a+, L5:IV+, L6:6b, L7:V
17-06-1984 by Juan Carlos Guichot and Jose A. Fernández
30-06-1990 by Mariano Rituerto and Gregorio Lozano
22-11-1981 by Mariano Rituerto, Angel Rituerto and Jesús García
13-05-1984 by Mariano Rituerto, Fernando Pinar and Luis Fernando Cajal.
Maneras de vivir
23-05-1982 by “La vasca de la prosperidad”
Notes and Warnings
The granite is very compact. In The Torozo the fissures and the dihedral ones are plentiful, with some occasional badge. On the contrary, The Albujea is a badge of adherence in the one that occasionally will find quartz glasses, small “regletas” and flagstones. Classic and alpine court roads in The Torozo, the same as their neighbor, the Torozo North summit. And adventure roads on badge in The Albujea. In The Albujea it is necessary to dominate the escalade of adherence and it demands a good level. The Torozo is presented more affordable for its variety, difficulty and number of routes than they reflect mainly for dihedral and fissures, we will sometimes find a little these more dirty of the habitual thing depending on the number of repetitions with those that counts that itinerary during the year, that which doesn't mean that the road is not boa and advisable but rather it is an area little visited. The roads of The Albujea are assured with burins or espits or both, but many of these anchorages are old or they move away enough. For The Torozo it is necessary a friends game and another of “fisureros”, since the land is purely alpine, although there are already many roads with the meetings installed, mainly in the southeast face. It will be enough strings of 55 meters, except in the “Luisa la Garrona”, where we need 60 meters. Although they form oneself solid, The Albujea, The Torozo and their North summit are clearly differentiated and separated by two big channels, guided respectively toward the Southwest and south. The first one divides The Albujea and the North summit and the second this last one and The Torozo. In The Albujea the roads go from the V+ to the 7a+/7b, prevailing the 6b/6c. The degrees are quite homogeneous in all the routes. Some itineraries are exposed by the state of the anchorages and the distance among them. It suits to dominate the degree of the road that we climb. Nevertheless there are roads that can be made peacefully. In The Torozo the itineraries embrace from the V to the 7a+, being plentiful fissures mainly and dihedral from V+ at 6b. More affordable when existing the possibility of frank autoasegurement. In the North summit of The Torozo the routes go from the V to the 6c, affordable but very little fixed equipment, some nail or occasional espit.
Different climbing degrees in rock. Conversion factors
This is a brief description of the different escalade degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors
This is a brief description of the different climbing degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors. A road is delimited according to a scale of very precise difficulty. The different difficulties appear as the escalade evolves sportly. Each school, each country has elaborated its own scale of difficulties that can translate himself in a scale of degrees. However it is not necessary to follow this scale with all accuracy, the gradation of an escalade road is not but that an evaluation of the wall, therefore this means in it finishes instance it is to the climber's service.
It will be of great utility the following internet link, where besides being able to see the different escalade degrees in the different scales, we will have an explanation of each one of the scales as well as a dictionary of escalade terms.
1.- La Sierra de Gredos
Author: Gabriel Martín
Price: 11,00 €
2.- Crónicas de Gredos
Author: Juan Andrés Feliú Suárez
Price: 18,21 €
3.- Cuadernos de Montaña
Author: Eduardo Martínez de Pisón
Editorial: Temas de Hoy
Price: 14,42 €
4.- Gredos. Guía de excursiones y ascensiones.
Author: Carlos Frías
Editorial: El senderista
Price: 16,50 €
5.-Guía de la Sierra de Gredos
Author: M.A. Vidal
Price: 7,81 €
6.- Rutas para descubrir la Sierra de Gredos
Author: Carlos Manuel Martín Jiménez
Editorial: Ámbito Viejo
Price: 9,62 €
Historical point of view of the environment
The solid of "El Torozo" is in the near of the solid oriental of the mountain of Gredos. You arrives until him through the Puerto del Pico. This area besides being very well-known for those fond of the mountain in general and to the escalade in rock in particular, it is characterized by their great historical importance. The Puerto del Pico has been unavoidable step for salesmen and merchants that trafficked among the two Castillas. Already in times of Celtic and Vetones in the Iberian peninsula this route was used.
Their importance but significant that acquires it in the time of the Roman conquest of the Iberian peninsula. It was in this time where you builds a work of big span to facilitate the step of travelers and merchants, The Roman Roadway.
The first roads obeyed strategic reasons mainly, to facilitate the conquest and later domain from the incorporate territories to the Empire. Little by little their left knitting a vast net that became vehicle transmitter of a language, a religion, an art and some customs that today in day shares most of the mediterranean countries.
The remains that are even conserved of the Roman roadway of the Puerto del Pico lapse from Cuevas del Valle until the high of the port. Although the conservation state is good, at the moment it has been developed a restoration project and recovery of the Roadway. For but information:
One of their more significant uses was the canalization of the seasonal displacements of the flocks from the high lands of the north to the meadows and valleys of Extremadura and Andalucia, where the livestock could find food during the winter, when the grasses of the north were covered with snow., called TRANSHUMANCIA.
In function of the trashumancia left creating an extensive net of real narrow canyons, sidewalks and lines, about 125.000 kilometers of roads without paving, with approximate widths of 75 meters, 37,5 meters and 21 meters, respectively, and with vegetation so that the animals went feeding until arriving to the "descansaderos" of the meadows, avoiding the cultivated fields and the populations.
Many of these routes were juxtaposed to wearing shoes Roman and old roads. Good test of it is it the central tract of the Western Cañada Leonesa that takes advantage of this Roman roadway of the Puerto del Pico to cross the Sierra of Gredos. This narrow canyon had its origin in the mounts of the north of León, it went by Medina de Rioseco, Tordesillas and Medina del campo, it crossed the county of Ávila and it descended until the south of Extremadura for Navalmoral de la Mata, Trujillo and Don Benito. In Ávila the journey was for Arévalo, San Pedro del Arroyo, Muñico, Puerto de Menga, Puerto del Pico, Mombeltrán, Cuevas del Valle and Ramacastañas.
Today in day if we ascend for the road of the Puerto del Pico we will even meet with the enormous livestock flocks that ascend to the grasslands of the mountain in the summery period and they go down to the extremeñas plains in the winter period.
There are 2 refuges on the slopes of Torozo. One is placed at approximately 1.450 m, on the trail to Torozo from Puerto del Pico. The other one is located at approximately 1.915 m, above Fuente de los Cervunales and below Collado del Risco (1.935 m). Both are a little bit dirty but they are good in bad weather situations