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Torozo

 
Torozo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Avila, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.31783°N / 4.98735°W

Object Title: Torozo

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 6646 ft / 2026 m

 

Page By: OBIJUANKENOBI71, Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Jun 26, 2002 / Jan 22, 2017

Object ID: 151045

Hits: 9003 

Page Score: 89.39%  - 29 Votes 

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Overview

 
Torozo
Torozo seen across Puerto del Pico

Torozo is the westernmost summit of the Macizo Oriental, the eastern part of Sierra de Gredos. It towers above Puerto del Pico, the road pass, which separates it from Macizo Central. Like all of Sierra de Gredos it is made up from beautiful granite, which makes it one of the main climbing attractions in the range. There are three summits, positioned in a triangle, the highest of which is Torozo North. The other two are Torozo South (also called El Torozo or Espolon de la Hora), and La Albujea (also La Pared de Alberjal), the south-west summit. The summits are connected by ridges with La Albujea separated by a saddle.
 
Torozo North
 
 
El Torozo. Nov. 2004<br />
 Juan
 
 
La Albujea. Seen from The...
 

Again, like most of the summits on the Sierra de Gredos main ridge, El Torozo’s aspect is utterly different when viewed from the north or the south. While to the north, it sends out a steep slope, to the south massive walls of up to 400m height drop almost vertically into Valle de las Cinco Villas (valley of the five villages: Mombeltran, Santa Cruz del Valle, San Esteban, Villarejo and Cuevas del Valle). Both sides are popular, the northern one among hikers who reach Torozo Nord by a circular route, the southern one among climbers who can choose among the roughly 80 routes of up to 250m and difficulty up to 7c+. The granite is very compact and short access from Puerto del Pico adds to the popularity of the mountain in both respects. Also, many of the easier climbing routes can be seen as practice routes, ensuring that Torozo, together with the towers of Los Galayos is among the best known climbing locations of the Iberian Peninsula.
 
Torozo
 
 
Looking down at La Albujea and El Torozo
 
 
Albujea
 

La Albujea, the south-western summit, is much more compact than its higher brethren. At its base, up to about half its height, it is nearly devoid of features like ledges or fissures. Therefore much of its climbing is friction based. The Torozo summits on the other hand offer a lot of chimneys, dihedrals and ledges, which facilitate climbing but impede orientation. Also, depending on usage and wear, they can be covered in dirt.
 
Torozo and Albujea (the even...
 
 
The three summits of Torozo
 
 
Rock formation near the Torozo summit
 

Although they form one massif, La Albujea, El Torozo and Torozo North are clearly separated by two big gullies, which lead to the south-west and south respectively and which offer access to the climbing routes. The first one divides La Albujea from Torozo North while the second separates Torozo North from El Torozo. On La Albujea the routes range from V+ to 7a+/7b, with the majority at 6b/6c. There is bolted protection which, however is scarce and old. On El Torozo the itineraries range between V and 7a+, with the fissure and dihedral routes between V+ and 6b. Protection is even more scarce but there are plentiful options to place your own equipment. Torozo North offers routes between V and 6c, with very little fixed protection.
 
Mother and baby
 
 
Summit Sentinels
 
 
What s happening?
 

Also, a herd of male Gredos Ibexes has chosen Torozo’s summit slopes as a home, offering great opportunities to the nature oriented photographer. The ibex (Capra pyrenaica victoriae) is protected all over Spain and the males won’t be bothered by human visitors. During kidding season, female ibexes are more nervous but they are still curious enough to check you out if you don’t perform any quick movements

Historical significance of Puerto del Pico


Roman roadway, seen from the...
The Roman Road at Puerto del Pico

As mentioned above, the Torozo Massif towers above Purto del Pico. The pass has been an important trade route between the two Castillas (today Castile and León and Extramadura). Even in the time of Celts and Vettones (a pre-Roman people living in the area) it was known and used. During the time of the Roman conquest of the Iberian peninsula a road was built, the remains of which can be seen near the pass even today. After having undergone conservation, the Roman Road is in excellent shape between Cuevas del Valle in the south and Puerto del Pico up north.

While the original road was built for strategic reasons, to facilitate the conquest of the peninsula, later it became a trade route and was used for transhumance between the north and the meadows of Extramadura and Andalucia in the south. In consequence a vast network of paths and roads was established, offering easy access to the south while diminishing the confusion of large flocks mingling with each other. Even today – while transhumance appears a thing of the past – large flocks of livestock can sometimes be observed near Puerto del Pico.

Climbing Routes

Torozo South Face
Torozo south face, where all climbing routes run

As you can see from the tables below, there are a lot of climbing routes on the south pointing faces of Torozo. The routes have been compiled using the Desnivel publication (#1. under "Maps & Books") Here is a short summary:
  • Average route length: 200mm
  • Maximum route length: 380 m
  • Number of Routes: approx. 80
  • Routes up to V: 15
  • Routes between V+ and 6c+: 70
  • Routes above 7: 15
  • Best time: Spring and autumn

 
sur face , route Siniestro...
 
 
1st Pitch (2)
 
 
4th Pitch (2)
 

El Torozo Routes


The routes onto the Torozo north and south summits are classical short granite routes in an alpine environment. They make use of dihedrals and fissures. There are five different sectors as listed below

Sector 1

Name Height Difficulty First Ascent
1 Cada vez que ladras cobras 200 meters L1:V/6a, L2:V, L3:V, L4:V, L5:6a, L6:V, L7:6a, L8:IV+, L.   
2 Espolón oeste 200 meters L1:V+/6a, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:IV, L6:6a, L7:6a+  
3 Pan con membrillo 200 meters L1:V, L2:IV+, L3:V, L4:V, L5:V, L6:V, L7:6aL8:IV+ June 1980 by Anastasio Viejo and Jose Manuel Vilches
4 Fisura sinuosa 200 meters L1:IV+, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:IV, L5:IV, L6:IV+  
5 Vía del friend nº1 200 meters L1:IV+, L2:V, L3:IV, L4:V, L5:V, L6:V, L7:IV, L8:IV, L9 March 1982 by Tino Nuñez, Guiñales and Goli Serrano.


Sector 2

Name Height Difficulty First Ascent
1 Teorema discontínuo 150 meters L1:6a+, resto máx. V+/6a  
2 Mono de birra 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:6a, L4:6b  
3 Cara niña 150 meters L1:V-, L2:V+, L3:V, L4:6a+, L5:IV+, L6:IV 04-09-1982 by Jose Luis Arias and Rafael Hidalgo
4 Doble cara mortal 150 meters L1:V+/A0, L2:V/A0, L3:6a/A0, L4:6a/A0, L5:IV+, L6:IV+, L 20-03-1983 by Jose Luis Arias, Rafael Hidalgo and Rafael Valero
5 Cara cartón 150 meters L1:6b/A0, L2:V+, L3:6a, L4:IV, L5:IV 29-01-1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Francisco Burdalo
6 Muñecas de porcelana 150 meters L1:A1/6a, L2:6a, L3:IV+, L4:V 7  
7 Variante por la cara 80 meters IV+, IV+, V, IV Spring 1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Rafael Hidalgo
8 Variante monchoman 150 meters L1:V, L2:V  

Sector 3

Name Height Difficulty First Ascent
1 Pan con membrillo 200 meters    
2 Fisura sinuosa 200 meters    
3 Campomanes/Martín 200 meters L1:IV, L2:IV+, L3:IV, L4:III, L5:V+, L6:6a, L7:IV, L8:IV   
4 Un viaje desconocido 200 meters L1:IV+, L2:V, L3:V, L4:III, L5:V+, L6:IV, L7:IV April 1986 by Gabriel Martín, Jaime Garrigós, Angeles, Juan José Fernández and Belén Molina.
5 Vía del friend 200 meters L1:6b/A0, L2:V+, L3:6a, L4:IV, L5:IV 29-01-1983 by Jose Luis Arias and Francisco Burdalo
6 Guirles/Campos 200 meters L1:IV, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:6b, L6:6b, L7:IV. Summer 1977 by Daniel Guirles and Luis Campos
7 Babino pan y vino 150 meters L1:V+, L2:V, L3:6a+, L4:6a+, L5:6a, L6:V+   
8 Variante de salida 150 meters 6b  
9 Gran diedro 200 meters L1:IV, L2:IV, L3:V, L4:V, L5:V+, L6:IV.  1972 by Emilio García Viel and Eduardo Sánchez


Sector 4

Name Height Difficulty First Ascent
1 Arroz pegao 250 meters L1: 6b+, L2:IV, L3:6a, L4:A0/7a, L5:A2/V+   
2 Vía de los amigos 250 meters L1:IV+, L2:IV+/V, L3:V, L4:V+, L5:V+, L6:V, L7:A2/V+ Spring 1982 by Angel Luis Muñoz and Manolo Cardero 
3 Tangerine dreams 250 meters L1:IV, L2:V, L3:A0/6c, L4:V, L5:6a+, L6:6a, L7:V, L8:A0/ 29-05-1983 by Manolo Cardero and José Puch.
4 Siniestro total 250 meters L1:IV+, L2:6b, L3:6a, L4:6c, L5:6b, L6:IV+, L7:6b, L8:6ª 30-01-1983 by Enrique Alvarez, Carlos Arroyo and Jose Luis Arias.
5 La turururu 250 meters L1:V, L2:7a   
6 Rivera de curtidores 250 meters L1:6a, L2:A2+/6a   
7 Vía del cala 250 meters L1:A0/7a, L2:6a, L3:6c+/7a, L4:6c+, L5:6c, L6:6ª June 1993 by Gabriél Martín, cristobal Real, Juanjo Fernández and Belén Molina.


Sector 5

Name Height Difficulty First Ascent
1 Vía del cala 250 meters    
2 Moby Dick 250 meters L1:6b+, L2:V, L3:6c+/A0, L4:A0/6c+, L5:V, L6:6a+.  01-11-1981 by Juan Aznar and Daniel Arroyo.
3 La Lumi 250 meters L1:6b+, L2:V, L3:6b, L4:6a, L5:6b/A0, L6:A0/6a+, L7:V January 1984 by Jose M. Vilches, Rubén Prendes, Octavio A. Viejo, Juan Muñoz and Jose M. Adrados.
4 Juanito el 15 250 meters L1:V+, L2:6b, L3:6a, L4:6a, L5:6b+, L6:A0/7a, L7:6a+  
5 Luisa la Garrona 250 meters L1:6a+, L2:6b, L3:V+, L4:6a+, L5:6a   
6 Drácula 250 meters L1:6a+, L2:6b, L3:A0/7a, L4:6c+, L5:V+, L6:V+, L7:V+   
7 Galayos 250 meters L1:IV+, L2:IV, L3:III, L4:V, L5:V+, L6:V+, L7:V Spring 1979 by Estanislao Zamora and José Ramón Pérez


La Albujea Climbing Routes


La Albujea, also called La pared de Alberjal, is the south-western of the three summits of Torozo. It is connected by short ridges to the other two summits. In its form it resembles La Pedriza, Europe's largest granite formation 42 km north-west of Madrid. The La Albujea routes are shorter and less frequented, mainly due to the antiquity of the bolts used for protection here. There are two climbing sectors on the tower.

Sector 1

Name Height Difficulty First Ascent
1 Garrapate free 150 meters L1:V+, L2:V, L3:III  
2 Vía Solé 150 meters L1:V, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:IV
3 La verde 150 meters L1:V+, L2:V, L3:V, L4:IV
4 Carmes 150 meters L1:6a,+, L2:V, L3:IV, L4:III
5 Maneras de vivir 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+ 
6 Variante de entrada directa 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:6a, L3:V+, L4:III+ 
7 La cicatriz 150 meters 6b
8 Ovaladas blancas 150 meters L1:A2/6b, L2:6a+, L3:6b, L4:III
9 Wanchos 150 meters L1:6a+, L2:A1/V, L3:V+
10 La danza del silencio 120 meters L1:6a, L2:6a+, L3:A0/6b, L4:V 10-11-1991 by Mariano Rituerto and Angel Lozano
11 Tostadez mental 87 meters L1:6c, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:V September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente
12 Vía del pelos 40 meters 6b
13 Juegos peligrosos 150 meters L1:6c+, L2:6a, L3:IV, L4:6b, L5:6b September 1993 by Rafael Fanegas and Eladio Vicente.
14 Muertos agradecidos 160 meters L1:6a, L2:6b, L3:V, L4:6a+, L5:IV+, L6:6b, L7:V 17-06-1984 by Juan Carlos Guichot and Jose A. Fernández
15 Serpiente blanca 150 meters L1:IV. L2:A0/6c, L3:IV+, L4:V, L5:6a, L6:A2/6a, L7:V 23-05-1982 by Javier Pulido, Julio Menéndez andJuan Carlos Guichot
16 Paranoia contínua 150 meters L1:7a, L2:7a, L3:6b, L4:IV, L5:6c+/A2, L6:6ª
17 Te apellidas fiambre 150 meters L1:7a+, L2:6a+, L3:V, L4:A0/6c, L5:IV+
18 Aturdido y confuso 130 meters L1:6b+, L2:6a, L3:IV+, L4:IV+, L5:IV+ 20-03-1983 by Carlos Arroyo and Enrique Álvarez
19 Ferrería de Arenas o más vale maña que fuerza 120 meters L1:6c, L2:IV+/V 25-10-1981 by Mariano Rituerto, Vicente Hernández, Angel Rituerto, Ricardo P. Gómez, Jesús García and Jose Manuel Navarro.
20 Capitán viajes 130 meters L1:6b, L2:V, L3:V+, L4:A0/IV+. Spring 1992 by Jose A. Fernández
21 Guadarrama 130 meters L1:IV, L2:IV+, L3:V, L4:IV+, L5:A1/V Summer 1980 by Javier Valentín and Isaías
22 Pasto de cabras 130 meters L1:III, L2:III+, L3:IV, L4:IV, L5:IV, L6:IV
23 El muro de Meli 130 meters L1:III, L2:III+, L3:II, L4:IV+, L5:V+/A1, L6:6c/A0, L7:6


Sector 2

Name Height Difficulty First Ascent
1 Bordillo 100 meters 6c  
2 Bordillo 100 meters 7a
3 Bordillo 100 meters 6a+
4 Destrepe filón 110 meters II
5 La mama escaladora 105 meters V-
6 La pañoleta, el bordón, y el cuatrobollos 110 meters IV+
7 Desconocida 110 meters V
8 Garrapata free 120 meters V+
9 Isa 125 meters III 14-11-1976 by Alejandro Muñoz and Angel Rituerto
10 Solo integral Josechu 120 meters 6a
11 Sole 100 meters 6b 30-06-1990 by Mariano Rituerto and Gregorio Lozano
12 La verde 130 meters V+ 22-11-1981 by Mariano Rituerto, Angel Rituerto and Jesús García
13 Aspitos 70 meters 6a
14 Carmes 140 meters 6a+ 13-05-1984 by Mariano Rituerto, Fernando Pinar and Luis Fernando Cajal.
15 Lagarto pinto 70 meters 6b+
16 Maneras de vivir 140 meters 6a+ 23-05-1982 by “La vasca de la prosperidad”

Getting There

Torozo and Macizo Oriental
Torozo and Macizo Oriental

Torozo is very popular among hikers and climbers because it can very easily reached from the road pass Puerto del Pico (see History section above). From Madrid it can be reached by two routes, north and south.

Northern Access
  • Take motorway A-6 north to Villacastin
  • Switch to motorway A-51 to its end at Ávila
  • Take N-110 for a few 100 metres until N-502 turns off left to Puerto del Pico


Southern Access
  • From Madrid, take motorway A-5 until you reach Talavera de la Reina
  • East of the town switch to N-502, which takes you north to Puerto del Pico

Red Tape

Gredos Ibex resting on the Torozo north summit
Gredos Ibex resting on the Torozo north summit

Torozo belongs to the small section of the Macizo Oriental, which belongs to Parque Regional de la Sierra de Gredos. Wild camping is not allowed in this area but there is a campground close by and two (shepherds) huts offer shelter in case of adverse weather.

Flora and Fauna are protected and special mention has to be made of the Gredos Ibexes (Capra pyrenaica victoriae), which graze in large flocks on and around the mountain. They were at the brink of extinction but their popupaltion rebounded after the first natural preserve was created near Laguna Grande in 1905. Today there are roughly 10000 specimen around, who all seem to know that they are protected and can't be bothered to take notice of any humans around.

Weather Conditions

Albujea and Torozo from the...
La Albujea and El Torozo

Since there is a huge elevation gain of up to 1000m between the north and the south of the Sierra de Gredos Main Ridge, weather conditions on both sides are very different. In addition to the temperature differences created by this elevation difference, the mountains themselves serve as a barrier for the dry northern winds as well as the typical humid south-western winds. Therefore the north is far colder and dryer than the south. The following widgets give you the weather for the closest villages on both sides of the barrier.

Accommodation

In Sierra de Gredos you have all options for accommodation, from the Parador de Gredos, a hotel near Navarredonda de Gredos to private apartments, campgrounds and even shelters (shepherds huts). A Google search will give you a good number of options.

The closest campground is located in the south of Puerto del Pico, at Prados Abiertos, complete with apartments and fincas:
www.pradosabiertos.com/
 
Torozo from the NE face shack
 
 
Torozo North
 
 
Shelter at Fuente de los Cervunales
 

There are two shelters on the slopes of Torozo. One is placed at approximately 1500 m, on the trail to Torozo from Puerto del Pico. The other one is located approximately at 1915 m, above Fuente de los Cervunales and below Collado del Risco (1935 m). Both are not too clean but good in bad weather situations. Especially since free camping is not allowed in the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Gredos.

Maps & Books

Maps


  • Sierra de Gredos
    Mapa Y Guía Excursionista
    Editorial Alpina
    1:25000
    ISBN: 978-8480903097
  • Parque Regional de la Sierra de Gredos
    Adrados Ediciones
    1 :135000 / 1 :25000
    ISBN : 978-8492236367

Books


  1. La Sierra de Gredos
    ISBN: 8487746446
    Author: Gabriel Martín
    Date: 1994
    Editorial: Desnivel
    Language: Spanish
  2. Crónicas de Gredos
    ISBN: 490000
    Author: Juan Andrés Feliú Suárez
    Language: Spanish
  3. Cuadernos de Montaña
    ISBN: 8484600165
    Author: Eduardo Martínez de Pisón
    Date: 2000
    Editorial: Temas de Hoy
    Language: Spanish
  4. Gredos. Guía de excursiones y ascensiones.
    ISBN: 8495368110
    Author: Carlos Frías
    Date: 2001
    Editorial: El senderista
    Language: Spanish
  5. Guía de la Sierra de Gredos
    ISBN: 100001
    Author: M.A. Vidal
    Language: Spanish
  6. Rutas para descubrir la Sierra de Gredos
    ISBN: 8481830747
    Author: Carlos Manuel Martín Jiménez
    Date: 2000
    Editorial: Ámbito Viejo
    Language: Spanish
  7. Sierra de Gredos : guía de escalada
    ISBN: 978-8498292848
    Author: R. Lora
    Date: 2013
    Editorial: Desnivel
    Language: Spanish
  8. Sierra de Gredos: Circo de Gredos – Valle del Tiétar – Valle del Jerte
    ISBN: 978-3-7633-4716-2 (Spanish)
    ISBN: 978-3763343812 (German)
    Author: B. Plikat
    Date: 2011
    Editorial: Rother

Appendix: Conversion of Climbing Grades

Australian UIAA French YDS NCCS UK.Adj. UK.Tech. RSA Saxon Czech Norw. Swed. V-grade
10 1 1 5.2   easy     I        
11 2 2 5.3 m II  
12 3 3 5.4 d III  
4 4 5.5 vhd IV  
13 E  
5- 5.6 ms V  
5  
14 5 5.7 F7 4a e1

 

e2

 

 

e3

 

 

e4

 

 

e5

 

 

e6

 

 

e7

 

 

e8

 

e9

e10

 

 

 

 

F1 VI 5- 5-  
 
15 5+ 5+ 4b VIIa 5 5  
5.8 F8 F2  
16 6- 4c 6 5+ 5+ V0-
VIIb
17 5.9 F9 5a F3 7 V0
6 6a

 

6a+

6- 6-
18 VIIc
6+ 5.10a F10 5b G1 7a
19 6 6
5.10b VIIIa V0+
20 7- 5c G2 7b
6b

6b+

5.10c 6+ 6+
21 7 5.10d F11 VIIIb V1
5.11a G3 7c 7-
22 7+ 6c

 

6c+

VIIIc
6a   7- V2
23 5.11b H1
8- F13 IXa V3
24 5.11c 7
7a

 

7a+

H3
25 8 5.11d IXb 7
6b 7+
5.12a V4
26 8+ F14 H3 IXc 7+
5.12b 8-
7b

7b+

V5
9- 5.12c F15 Xa
27 8 8- V6
6c
9 7c

 

7c+

5.12d I1 Xb
28 8 V7
5.13a F16 V8
29 9+ I2 Xc 8+
5.13b 7a
30 8a

8a+

V9
10- I3 9- 8-
31 5.13c V10
32 10 8b

8b+

5.13d J 9- V11
9
33 5.14a  
10+ 9
8c

 

8c+

5.14b 9+ V12
11- V13
34 5.14c 9+
 
35 11 5.14d V14
9a  
 

Images

Gredos Ibex resting on the Torozo north summitMale Gredos IbexMother and babyclimbing in plaque of...Male Gredos ibexUser Profile ImageSummit Sentinels
What\'s happening?Fauna de Gredos. Capra...The three summits of TorozoThe ridge to Albujea from the...Torozosur face , route Siniestro...El Viejo. Topo
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