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Riscos de Villarejo
Mountain/Rock

Riscos de Villarejo

 
Riscos de Villarejo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Avila, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.19000°N / 4.61°W

Object Title: Riscos de Villarejo

Elevation: 6161 ft / 1878 m

 

Page By: OBIJUANKENOBI71

Created/Edited: Oct 7, 2002 / Oct 24, 2002

Object ID: 151253

Hits: 9750 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview


Also denominated "Riscos del Tío Pasito", it is a mountain of granitic rock located in the solid oriental of the Sierra of Gredos. It is part of the denominated Sierra de Villarejo thats understands from the cliffs of the Puerto del Pico (El Torozo) until the Puerto of Serranillos.  The Riscos de Villarejo are located concretely in the slope S.O. of the Summit of the Morenos ones (1.878 m) between the Collado del Boquerón and the Port of Serranillos, being part of the head of the Gta. of the Placejo and in the finish municipal of Villarejo del Valle.  It is a group of towers and needles that present excellent possibilities for the escalade, with routes of 150 and 200 meters of longitude on a magnify granite.  They highlight among other their three main summits: The Aguja de las Cuatro Puntas, Risco Gordo or Punta del Boquerón and the Torre de Villarejo.  This escalade area is one of those but well-known in the Iberian peninsula together with Los Galayos and El Torozo.

Rock Type: Granite
The half height is of: 150 meters 
The maximum height is of: 200 meters 
Number of Routes: 150
Routes until V: 18%
Routes of V+ at 6c+: 66% 
Routes of 7a at 7c+: 16% 
Routes of eighth: 0% 
Better Time: Spring and autumn 

Getting There


To access to this mountain we will have to arrive until the Puerto del Pico,  located in the km 55 of the national highway 502 in Avila, once there we will lower for the forest road that there is in the curve of Villarejo. You also consents in a way but direct to this mountain from San Esteban's town, ascending approximately for the highway that drives to the Port of Serranillos, to 1 km of the port in the first curve of the road, a road that will take us in 30 or 45 minutes to the base of the walls after the hill that descends of Los Morenos ones, going back leaves.  

From Madrid: 
By car
By the N-V until Talavera de la Reina we take the deviation for Arenas de San Pedro’s c-502 direction until arriving to Ramacastañas, where we continue to the right until arriving to La Villa de Mombeltran,  where we will take the first deviation to the right that takes us to San Esteban, where we will continue for the highway of the Serranillos port until arriving to a one km of the port..
By bus
Company La Sepulvedana. daily buses (13,67 € go and turn). from the south station of buses 

08:30 10:00 13:00 16:00 17:00 18:00 19:30 20:30

This bus leaves us in Arenas de San Pedro where taken another that takes us to Cuevas del Valle and San Esteban. ( price note 1 € single going. ) 

11:00 15:00 15:15 19:15 21:45

Schedules of friday. For other days to consult in 91-5304800 or in  www.lasepulvedana.es
Once in Cuevas del Valle we will go up walking for the roman roadway or taken a taxi until the Puerto del Pico. 

From Avila
By car
For C-502 o'clock directly until the Puerto del Pico. 
By bus
Company Muñoz travel. from the bus station of Avila. We descend in Puerto del Pico, and we will lower for the forest road of Villarejo.

15:00 daily 
17:30 friday (single from October to June)

Red Tape


Forbidden the one camped free. One can make vibouac in the sources that there is going up the Puerto de Serranillos and in the base of the mountain. Loose animals cannot be taken. Certain roads cannot be climbed in time of breeding of birds (the forest guard of the area will inform us) and mainly NOT TO LEAVE GARBAGE, to maintain the clean mountain.


When To Climb


The best time in the year to climb this mountain is the one understood between the months of May and October, although this I finish September it is the suitable one for the escalade due to the absence of rains and to the soft temperatures.

 Gradient of temperatures:

  Stockings Temperatures Extreme Temperatures
Winter 5ºC ~ 8ºC 36ºC ~  44ºC
Summer 22ºC ~  25ºC -6ºC ~  -8ºC

Camping


Camping site of Prados Abiertos. Second category. Open the whole year. Located in the C-502, km. 72. Tf: 920386061. Of extension 2,5 km2, good situation, calm place, terraces, Floor something hard with grass, Many hoist, Natural bathroom to 1 km.

Capacity and infrastructure  Parceled camping site Offers you seem them for season,  It accepts caravans,  each parcel is of 60/100 m2  Aparetaments: 7  Bungalows: 4  Locations: 105  Showers of cold water: 17  Showers of hot water: 17  Washbasins of cold water: 37  Washbasins of hot water: 10  Laundry of cold water: 16  Laundry of hot water: 3  Sink of cold water: 8  Sink of hot water: 9  Basic services  Safe, Telephones, Plugs, butane Bombonas,  WC, Chemical WC, Drainage of Caravans, Washer, 
Comforts: Infantile Paque, Supermarket, Bar, Restaurant, Barbecue, 
Activities:  Pool, infantile Pool, Tennis, Rent of bicycles, 
Rates:  Mature night: 3.00 Eurus  Boy night: 2.00 Eurus,  Car night: 2,70 Eurus,  Moto night: 2,35 Eurus,  Caravan night: 3.20 Eurus,  Spread night: 3.20 Eurus,  Autocaravan night: 5.00 Eurus,  Electricity night: 2,50 Eurus,  Observations: It accepts cards, Visa, Master Card, American Express,...

You tariff parcels:  I price it parcels: 10.10 Eurus,  It includes: Car, Caravan, Electricity, 0 adults, 0 children,

In the mountain this forbidden the one camped free. We can sleep outdoors in the base of the mountain. (bivouacs).

Foremost peaks in the area


  • LA CABRILLA (1.948 m / 6.391 ft)
  • RISCO DE LAS MORILLAS (1.998 m / 6.555 ft)
  • PUERTO DEL PEÓN (2.051 m / 6.729 ft)
  • LA CASA ( 1.845 m / 6.053 ft)
  • PEÑA DEL MEDIODIA ( 2.224 m / 7.296 ft)
  • LA MIRA (2.341 m / 7.680 ft)
  • LOS GALAYOS ( 2.216 m / 7.270 ft)
  • El TOROZO (2.026 m / 6.646 ft)
  • SERRANILLOS

Maps and sketches



Climbing routes


The same as their neighboring mountain, "El Torozo", this mountain presents enormous possibilities as for the escalade in rock, offering numerous routes of different difficulties and heights. 
In this section we will describe each one of the needles or picks that understand this mountain with a chart of their respective routes, which will go accompanied by an explanatory graph of these, which will call you the same as the chart in question

TORRE DE VILLAREJO CARA SUR

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 Car Crash 130 meters L1:6b,V+, L2: V+, L3:III+, L4:V,V+, L5:V, III  Alberto Sepúlveda y Javier Martín
2 Sangre de Dragón 70 meters L1:6a, L2:7a+,6a, L3:6a, 6c+, L4:IV+, L5 IV+, III+ 1993. Eladio Vicente y Carlos Puentes 
3 Durán 140 meters
4 Eva 120 meters L1:6a, V+, L2:IV, L3:IV, L4:III, L5 III 1983. Miguel Castilla y Ramón Pérez Mata-Mala
5 Super evax (fina y segura) 75 meters L1:6a, L2:6a, 6b 1992. Gabriel Martín y Goli Serranoi
6 El algodón no engaña 120 meters L1:6a+, 6b+, L2:6a+,7a, V+, L3:6a+,6a 1988. Javier Talavera, Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta.
7 El Lúbrico crónico 120 meters L1:6a, 6b, L2:6a+,6b+, V+, L3:6a+,6a 1988. Javier Talavera, Gabriel Martín, Carlos Cuesta y Alejandro Díaz
8 Dingo 120 meters L1:V, V+, L2:V,V+,  L3:IV, L4: IV 1981. Gabriel Martín y Emilio
9 Francisco Galán 120 meters L1:V+, V, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4: IV, L5: III 1979. Gabriel Martín, Guillermo Mateo y Máximo Murcia
10 Emiliano el chachi 120 meters L1:V+, L2: V+, L3:6a, 6c, L4: V 1983. Santiago Hernandez, Luis Fernando Cajal y Fernando Pinar
11 Guirles-Marchal 120 meters L1:6a, V-, L2:IV+, V, L3:V, IV+, L4:V, L5: V 1981. Daniel Guirles y Manolo Marchal
12 Lipotitos flotantes 140 meters L1:6a+, 6b, L2:6a, V+, L3:6a+ 1992. Luis Fernando Cajal, Fernando Pinar y Raul Gonzalez
13 Via incordia 180 meters L1:6b, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4: 6a, L5: 6b+, L6: V+, L7: IV 1985. Luis Fernando Cajal, Fernando Pinar y Santiago Hernandez
14 Polvora en los dedos 180 meters L1:III+, L2:V, L3:6a, L4: V+, L5: V+, L6: V+, L7: V, L8: V 1985. Gabriel Martin, Joaquín Colorado, Cristobal Real y Juanjo Hernandez
15 Como me gustan las uñas de tus pies 180 meters L1:6b, L2:6a+, L3:V+, L4: 6c, L5: 6a+, L6: IV+, L7: V+ 1985. Gabriel Martín, Juanjo Fernandez y Belen Molina
16 Te eo Helao 40 meters L1: 6a, 6b+ 1992. Gabriel Martín y Teodoro Diaz
17 Coney Island 180 meters L1:IV+, V+, L2:IV+, L3:III, L4: IV, L5: V 1979. Francisco Aguado y Juan Lupion
18 Tierra de nadie 180 meters L1:7a, L2:6b, L3:6a, 6c, L4: 6a+, L5: 6a+, L6: 6a, L7: 6a 1993. Gabriel Martín, José Luis Lázaro y Carlos Cabeza
19 Esteban Altieri 180 meters L1:IV, IV+, L2:V, L3:V, L4: V+, L5: IV, L6: IV+, L7: IV 1980. Gabriel Martín, Ramón Ladra, Guillermo Mateo, Felix de Pablo y Francisco Murcia
20 Jack Daniels 180 meters L1:V+, L2:6a+, L3:6b+, L4: 6a 1992. Gabriel Martín, Javier Casavilla, Goli Serrano y Belen Heras
21 La Bella Durmiente 45 meters L1: 6b,6a 1992. Gabriel Martín y Goli Serrano
22 La bestia rugiente 45 meters L1: 6b,6a 1992. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz
23 Via del Mille 180 meters L1:V+, L2:6a, L3:6a, L4: 6b, L5: 6a+, L6: 7a 1984. Gabriel Martín y Joaquín Colorado
24 Julay Jhan 25 meters 7b 1992. Gabriel Martín
25 Directa de los Macarenos 180 meters L1:6a, L2:V+, L3:6b, L4: 6a 1992. Gabriel Martín, Chema Mancebo y Teodoro Díaz

AGUJA DE LAS 4 PUNTAS. WEST FACE

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 La diagonal 150  meters III  1978. Gabriel Martín
2 Vía Oeste 150  meters L1:III,  L2: IV+, V, L3: V, IV, III, L4: III, L5: IV- 1977. Gabriel Martín, Francisco Galán, Francisco Murcia, y Máximo Murcia
3 María Luisa 150  meters L1: III, IV+, L2: V+, L3: V, L4: V, V+, L5: III+ 1984. Gabriel Martín y Miguel Castilla

AGUJA DE LOS MORENOS. South FACE

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 El muñeco diabólico 110 meters L1:V-, IV+, V, L2:V, L·: IV, V-  1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz
2 Natalia Aranda 110 meters L1:IV+, V,  L2:V+, V 1993. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta

AGUJA DE LOS MORENOS. South-West FACE

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 Via del Moñón 110 meters L1:,IV, L2:IV+, V, L3: IV-  1984. Gabriel Martín y Jaime Garrigos
2 Pabellón geriatrico 80 meters V+ 1993. Gabriel Martín, Julio Barthe, Natalia de la Torre y Javier Casavilla
3 El lapidador 80 meters V+, IV- 1993. Gabriel Martín, Julio Barthe  y Javier Casavilla

2ª AGUJA DE LOS MORENOS. South FACE

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 Cuesta Mollano 100 meters L1:,IV, L2:IV-, L3: V+, III+, L4: III+  1984. Gabriel Martín y Jaime Garrigos
2 Diedro perona 100 meters L1:V, L2: V+, L3: V, L4: 6b+ 1993. Gabriel Martín y Cristobal Real
3 El balcón de tu escote 100 meters 6a, V+ 1993. Gabriel Martín y Goli Serrano
4 Sobrino porter 100 meters V 1993. Rafael Fanegas, Daniel Alvarez y Roberto Herrainz
5 Saneamientos zapata 100 meters V, 6b+ 1993. Rafael Fanegas y David Alvarez

AGUJA DE LOS CALIFAS

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 Ben-al-katre 70 meters L1:6b+,6b, L2: 7a+, 6b+  1994. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta
2 Ayatola rasca bola 80 meters L1:IV+, V-, L2:IV+ 1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz
3 Aladino frota fino 90 meters L1: IV, L2: 6a, L3: III 1994. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz

PUNTA AMPARO

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 Octopussy 90 meters L1:6b+, L2: 7b  Alberto Sepúlveda, Gabriel Martín y Francisco Toboso
2 Patético Mariachi 90 meters L1:6b+, L2:6a+ 1994. Miguel Angel Lozano y Gabriel Martín
3 Los cantos de cuenterbury 110 meters L1: IV+, 7a, 7b, L2: V, L3: V+, 6a Alberto Sepúlveda y Gabriel Martín
4 Espolón sur, via los jinetes del viento 110 meters 1993. Gabriel Martín y Javier Casavillas
5 Irene Castilla 110 meters 1993. Miguel Castilla y  Gabriel Martín
6 Espolón Miguel Angel Castilla 60 meters 1993. Miguel Castilla y  Gabriel Martín
7 Variante de salida 60 meters 1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz
8 Variante Gabi 100 meters 1981. Carlos Cuesta, Natalia Aranda y Pablo Galán.
9 Realidad virtual 160 meters L1:IV, V, L2:6a+, L3:V- 1994. Alberto Sepúlveda y Vicente de Castro
10 Un cálido aniversario 120 meters L1:IV+, V, L2: 6a , L3:6a, V, L4: I+V 1993. Carlos Cuesta y Gabriel Martín
11 Galán Rabago 110 meters L1:III, L2:IV+, V, L3:V, 6a+ 1993. Miguel Castilla y  Gabriel Martín
12 Espolón Gabriel Martín 100 meters L1: IV+, L2: V, IV+, L3: V+ 1993. Miguel Castilla y  Gabriel Martín

PUNTA SOLEDAD

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 El sobrino 75 meters L1:IV+, L2: V-, V  1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz
2 El Principe de las tinieblas 75 meters L1:IV+, IV, L2: V-, V 1993. Gabriel Martín, Carlos Cuesta, Javier Casavilla y José Carlos Ramirez
3 Javier Galán 75 meters L1: V, IVL2: V, L3: V, III 1993. Gabriel Martín,  Roberto Herrainz, Pablo Galán y Carlos Cuesta

EL YELMITO. South FACE

Name Long. Difficulty First Ascension
1 El Chamizo 150  meters L1: V-, L2: V+, L3: V, L4: IV, L5: IV  1993. Alberto Gil y Eduardo Tejerina 
2 Rio Bravo 120  meters L1:IV+,  L2:IV+ L3:IV,  L4: IV- 1984. Gabriel Martín y Juanjo Fernandez
3 Hernández-Marchal 120  meters L1: IV+, L2: V, L3: V, L4: III 1983. Santiago Hernández y Manolo Marchal
4 Vía de la niebla 150  meters L1: IV+, V, IV+, L2: IV+, V, L3: V 1983. Gabriel Martín, Santiago Hernández, Manolo Marchal y Francisco Galán
5 Lubna 150 meters L1: IV, V, L2: 6a, L3: IV+, L4: IV 1985. Gabriel Martín, Belén Molina  y Juanjo Fernandez
6 Hombres Brubster 130 meters L1: 6a, V, L2: IV+, 6a, L3:6a, V+, V 1993. Gabriel Martín y Javier Casavillas
7 Acción mutante 110 meters L1: 6a, 6c, L2: 6b, 6b+, L3: V+ 1993. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta
8 El vengador tóxico 90 meters V+ 1993. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta
9 Chicho terremoto 90 meters IV+, V+ 1993. Gabriel Martín y Javier Casavillas
10 Bola de dragón Routes of among 35 and 65 meters opened up in 1994-1993 of difficulties understood among 6a, 6b open V+ fundamentally for Gabriel Martín, Carlos Cuesta, Roberto Herrainz
11 Son Gohanda
12 Goku
13 Rey vegeta
14 Vegeta
15 Picolo
16 Krilin
17 Yamsha
18 Maestro Mutenrroy
19 Via este
20 Via normal

Different climbing degrees in rock. Conversion factors


This is a brief description of the different climbing degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors. A road is delimited according to a scale of very precise difficulty. The different difficulties appear as the escalade evolves sportly. Each school, each country has elaborated its own scale of difficulties that can translate himself in a scale of degrees. However it is not necessary to follow this scale with all accuracy, the gradation of an escalade road is not but that an evaluation of the wall, therefore this means in it finishes instance it is to the climber's service.

Australian UIAA French YDS NCCS UK.Adj. UK.Tech. RSA Saxon Czech Norw. Swed. V-grade
10 1 1 5.2   easy     I        
11 2 2 5.3 m II  
12 3 3 5.4 d III  
4 4 5.5 vhd IV  
13 E  
5- 5.6 ms V  
5  
14 5 5.7 F7 4a e1

 

e2

 

 

e3

 

 

e4

 

 

e5

 

 

e6

 

 

e7

 

 

e8

 

e9

e10

 

 

 

 

F1 VI 5- 5-  
 
15 5+ 5+ 4b VIIa 5 5  
5.8 F8 F2  
16 6- 4c 6 5+ 5+ V0-
VIIb
17 5.9 F9 5a F3 7 V0
6 6a

 

6a+

6- 6-
18 VIIc
6+ 5.10a F10 5b G1 7a
19 6 6
5.10b VIIIa V0+
20 7- 5c G2 7b
6b

6b+

5.10c 6+ 6+
21 7 5.10d F11 VIIIb V1
5.11a G3 7c 7-
22 7+ 6c

 

6c+

VIIIc
6a   7- V2
23 5.11b H1
8- F13 IXa V3
24 5.11c 7
7a

 

7a+

H3
25 8 5.11d IXb 7
6b 7+
5.12a V4
26 8+ F14 H3 IXc 7+
5.12b 8-
7b

7b+

V5
9- 5.12c F15 Xa
27 8 8- V6
6c
9 7c

 

7c+

5.12d I1 Xb
28 8 V7
5.13a F16 V8
29 9+ I2 Xc 8+
5.13b 7a
30 8a

8a+

V9
10- I3 9- 8-
31 5.13c V10
32 10 8b

8b+

5.13d J 9- V11
9
33 5.14a  
10+ 9
8c

 

8c+

5.14b 9+ V12
11- V13
34 5.14c 9+
 
35 11 5.14d V14
9a  
 

 

It will be of great utility the following internet link, where besides being able to see the different escalade degrees in the different scales, we will have an explanation of each one of the scales as well as a dictionary of escalade terms.

"Climbing dictionary and climbing ratings and grades"


Related books


1.- La Sierra de Gredos
ISBN: 8487746446
Author: Gabriel Martín
Date: 1994
Editorial: Desnivel
Price: 11,00 €
Language: Spanish

2.- Crónicas de Gredos
ISBN: 490000
Author: Juan Andrés Feliú Suárez
Price: 18,21 €
Language: Spanish

3.- Cuadernos de Montaña
ISBN: 8484600165
Author: Eduardo Martínez de Pisón
Date: 2000
Editorial: Temas de Hoy
Price: 14,42 €
Language: Spanish

4.- Gredos. Guía de excursiones y ascensiones.
ISBN: 8495368110
Author: Carlos Frías
Date: 2001
Editorial: El senderista
Price: 16,50 €
Language: Spanish

5.-Guía de la Sierra de Gredos
ISBN: 100001
Author: M.A. Vidal
Price: 7,81 €
Language: Spanish

6.- Rutas para descubrir la Sierra de Gredos
ISBN: 8481830747
Author: Carlos Manuel Martín Jiménez
Date: 2000
Editorial: Ámbito Viejo
Price: 9,62 €
Language: Spanish


Some History


Have probably been climbers of Arenas de San Pedro the first ones in traveling these summits for their steps but difficult, opening some roads of little difficulty (via Rituerto - Feliú, in the Punta primavera). It will be starting from the seventy when the itineraries of difficulty appear, such as the road Mary Paz, Coney Island, Esteban Altieri,..., opened up by Santiago Pino, Luis Martín, Francisco Aguado and Juan Lupión. The same as in the Torozo, the explendor time arrives with the eighty, where there they are given appointment the best national climbers as Pedro Nicolás, Emilio G. Viel, Santiago Hernández, Daniel Guirles, Miguel Castilla, Luis Fernando Cajal, Fernando Pinar, Manuel Marchal and mainly Gabriel Martín for its intense work in the team of laqs roads and in its graph.

External Links

Images

Map of the area. 07-10-2002Riscos de Villarejo. 07-10-2002Perspective from the Valley...Climbing for the Villarejo...Route "Esteban Altieri" in...L6 , under the roof before...L2 of the route "Esteban...