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Turski Zleb
Route

Turski Zleb

 
Turski Zleb

Page Type: Route

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.36476°N / 14.57294°E

Object Title: Turski Zleb

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 45-55°

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: morceaux

Created/Edited: Feb 5, 2007 / Sep 15, 2009

Object ID: 267156

Hits: 4591 

Page Score: 85.36%  - 20 Votes 

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Overview

Turski Zleb (means: Couloir of Turska Gora) is a wide couloir between the north face of Rinke and Turska Gora. This route can be used for ascent on Turska Gora, Rinke, Skuta, and even Grintovec. I think it is very popular, even in winter, when weather is fine and snow conditions are good (but definitely not after a snowfall), and because it is quite near to the Frischaufov Dom at Okreselj plateau.
When climbing in the couloir, one can enjoy great views to the north, down the walley, and Mrzla Gora, and its neighbours.
Okreselj
Okreselj
Top of Turski Zleb
View to north
 
Ridge of Mrzla Gora
Ridge of Mrzla Gora

Getting There

From Okreselj plateau take the marked route to Turski Zleb (signs show the way). At the first junction turn right, at the second turn left. After about 20 minutes the terrain gets steeper, this is a scree field (in winter it could be a dangerous avalanche area). About 400 vertical meters above Okreselj begins the couloir itself.
Approach to Turski Zleb
Approach

Route Description

Entrance of Turski Zleb
Entrance
In the middle of Turski Zleb
Looking up in the middle
View down from the middle of Turski Zleb
Looking down in the middle

On a few sections the route is assured with steel ropes and pegs. I think in summer the center of the couloir is not suitable for climbing because it is filled with loose rocks and scree, that is why the marked route leads on the right of the couloir. At the lower section the steepness is about 45-50°, on higher reaches could be 50-55° (these are not "official" values). When there is snow in, progression is much easier, but that also depends on the condition of snow.
Overall, the height difference is about 300 m between entrance and the ridge.
This is a moderate difficult route, just a little technical, rather physically demanding.
Upper section of Turski Zleb
Upper section


Essential Gear

In summer, and when there is not much snow, good shoes are enough. Wear a helmet for safety (as rocks could fall from above). Also a sit harness and a via ferrata set might be useful.
In snowy conditions, full winter equipment is necessary - crampons, ice axe, and even rope is suggested if the couloir is icy.

Additions and Corrections

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morceauxRe: Translation

morceaux

Hasn't voted

Thank you for the information, I'll make the corrections on the page.

Posted Aug 11, 2009 4:41 am

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