How many more parts are there for you to write R?
You should make it a book hehehe
As usual, great report, whatch yourself while on trails with trees...This head cut could be a lot worse on altitude, you were lucky.
Best wishes
Parofes
For a long time I procrastinated before beginning to write about Peru, because I knew it would be a big story. Even so, when I started I massively underestimated it, thinking there would be four parts in total. Can you believe it? Then, having written a draft version of what was to be the first part, I judged it to be too long, so I cut it in two, but it didn't sink in yet what I had gotten myself into - that came gradually, while I wrote the next couple of installments. Probably there will still be three more, all in the next month or so.
By now this must be the longest series of TR's on SummitPost, but no, I have any plans for a book. I just write for the fun of it, and everybody can read and enjoy it for free. That's the internet age, right?
As for that cut, that didn't worry me, but your comment makes me curious: how does the altitude affect this? I mean, I know that at high altitude the human body only deteriorates, we can't live permanently high up, but for the next few days I was mostly between 4400m and just above 5000m. That's not a problem, is it?
Another great TR - something of an epic - and you were lucky! Just goes to show that there is a big diffence climbing in well populated areas with accurate maps and guidebooks. In your situation margins for error much slimmer... but you got away with it!
As for the cut - I can only assume Paulo is refering to how poorly wounds heal at altitude due to the low pO2. If you had to suture a scalp wound at normal elevation then can take sutures out after 5 days. But at altitude, depending on how high - maybe even double the time. At very great altitude some wounds might not heal at all.
Best wishes, Mark
I'm currently in the Cordillera Blanca and read your trip reports before I got here. Great source of information!
My partner and I recently attempted the traverse of Urus Central, from East to West. We traversed the first peak but then descended due to the late hour. Anyways, I thought it would interest you what you were getting yourself into. Not an easy climb by any means....I uploaded some pictures here:
Glad to hear that you find my trip reports useful. As you'll have read, we decided to go up the south face to the Urus Central summit ridge after discarding the idea of climbing the route up the rocky ridge from the east. Nice to read that you made it up there, pity you ran out of time to continue to the main summit.
Even though Urus Central is not a high peak by Cordillera Blanca standards, I believe that the full traverse is a pretty hard route. I still haven't actually seen Urus Central from the west, nor seen photo's, but if I were to go there again and still couldn't find any route info, that's what I would try. And I would bring more gear.
PAROFES - May 6, 2013 7:45 am - Voted 10/10
Wow...How many more parts are there for you to write R?
You should make it a book hehehe
As usual, great report, whatch yourself while on trails with trees...This head cut could be a lot worse on altitude, you were lucky.
Best wishes
Parofes
rgg - May 6, 2013 1:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Wow...Hi Paulo,
For a long time I procrastinated before beginning to write about Peru, because I knew it would be a big story. Even so, when I started I massively underestimated it, thinking there would be four parts in total. Can you believe it? Then, having written a draft version of what was to be the first part, I judged it to be too long, so I cut it in two, but it didn't sink in yet what I had gotten myself into - that came gradually, while I wrote the next couple of installments. Probably there will still be three more, all in the next month or so.
By now this must be the longest series of TR's on SummitPost, but no, I have any plans for a book. I just write for the fun of it, and everybody can read and enjoy it for free. That's the internet age, right?
As for that cut, that didn't worry me, but your comment makes me curious: how does the altitude affect this? I mean, I know that at high altitude the human body only deteriorates, we can't live permanently high up, but for the next few days I was mostly between 4400m and just above 5000m. That's not a problem, is it?
Cheers, Rob
markhallam - May 7, 2013 1:25 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Wow...Berg Heil Sir
Another great TR - something of an epic - and you were lucky! Just goes to show that there is a big diffence climbing in well populated areas with accurate maps and guidebooks. In your situation margins for error much slimmer... but you got away with it!
As for the cut - I can only assume Paulo is refering to how poorly wounds heal at altitude due to the low pO2. If you had to suture a scalp wound at normal elevation then can take sutures out after 5 days. But at altitude, depending on how high - maybe even double the time. At very great altitude some wounds might not heal at all.
Best wishes, Mark
PAROFES - May 7, 2013 7:43 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Wow...Well R,
Mark said it all. Sorry to answer later, just got hoe after my round of chemo, beat up...
Cheers
Paulo
rgg - May 7, 2013 11:33 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Wow...Well, since you're at sea level, you'll surely recover quickly, and you'll be out climbing and exploring before you know it.
Cheers, Rob
Vitaliy M. - May 7, 2013 5:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Very niceNothing beats having an adventure after which you come home safe! Enjoyed this one.
rgg - May 8, 2013 9:31 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Very niceAbsolutely true, coming back safely is paramount - if only because if I didn't, that would interfere with my big plan to become an old mountaineer.
markhallam - May 27, 2013 1:27 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Very niceCouln't resist this...
Excuse me Sir - but you already ARE an old mountaineer!
From another (not quite so) old mountaineer (got given a t-shirt for my last birthday saying 'Old guys rule OK... just getting broken in!'
Keep it lit
rgg - May 28, 2013 7:03 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Very niceOld? Me? Didn't you read about that 80-year old that climbed Everest the other day?
LakeofConstance - Jun 28, 2014 11:04 am - Hasn't voted
Some info on Urus CentralHey rgg,
I'm currently in the Cordillera Blanca and read your trip reports before I got here. Great source of information!
My partner and I recently attempted the traverse of Urus Central, from East to West. We traversed the first peak but then descended due to the late hour. Anyways, I thought it would interest you what you were getting yourself into. Not an easy climb by any means....I uploaded some pictures here:
http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=902374&confirm_post=12
I guess the easiest way up Urus Central is on its West side where there is less steep terrain with lots of (hard) snow.
cheers,
Marian.
rgg - Jun 28, 2014 12:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Some info on Urus CentralHi Marian,
Glad to hear that you find my trip reports useful. As you'll have read, we decided to go up the south face to the Urus Central summit ridge after discarding the idea of climbing the route up the rocky ridge from the east. Nice to read that you made it up there, pity you ran out of time to continue to the main summit.
Even though Urus Central is not a high peak by Cordillera Blanca standards, I believe that the full traverse is a pretty hard route. I still haven't actually seen Urus Central from the west, nor seen photo's, but if I were to go there again and still couldn't find any route info, that's what I would try. And I would bring more gear.
Saludos, Rob