Vaio dei Colori

Approach and Rating the Tour (by hiking standards)

In Vaio dei Colori

The beginning

Approach

The trailhead starts on Campogrosso (see the parent page).

Rating the Tour

0. General: 1456 m to 2259 m, exposition NE and N, marked (not in couloir - snow!). Best time for the ascent is late spring and early summer. Snow couloir is up to 45 degrees steep, some 500 m of altitude. A few steel ropes to overcome some rocks in the middle of couloir.

1. Effort: 900 m of total ascent, 3 h.

2. Power: 3 - medium (snow up to 45 degrees, easy rocks).

3. Psyche: 3 - medium.

4. Orientation: 3 - medium.

Route Description

Exiting Vaio dei Colori

The couloir is getting steeper

From Passo Campogrosso the marked path goes over meadows and through the woods towards the SW. It ascends the slopes of the side ridge, rising above Passo Campogrosso, until it reaches the NE slopes of the main chain. Then it crosses these slopes almost horizontally. Just before ascending on a small notch in a side ridge you pass the crossroads where the easier route ascends up towards the left on Bocchetta dei Fondi. Our path continues crossing, ascends a small notch and on the other side descends (don't go up by the path No. 8!) again almost 100 meters. Then it continues crossing towards the W until it reaches a broad ravine, in late spring and early summer filled with snow.

Here it's worth putting on crampons, as the couloir will go up on the main ridge, overcoming some 500 m of altitude. The couloir first ascends upwards and is not very steep. After some 100 meters it branches. The right branch also reaches very high below the main ridge, but the Colori route goes left. The couloir becomes steeper, more narrow, we soon turn a bit right and go directly upwards. The slopes are some 40 degrees steep.

The crux passage

Some 200 meters higher we reach the crux point. Even end of May the snow is intermitted with a rocky and icy step. You can climb directly over rocks on the right, but it is easier to search some 5 meters below the step on the right side, where you find a steel rope. With its help the rocky part is soon below you, then you can return into the couloir or continue by the rocks on the right (steel rope). Still above, you reach the most narrow and steep part of the couloir (some 45 degrees), pass it and above you already see the sunny edge of the main ridge (Bocchetta di Mosca). You continue by snow as high as possible, climb over the final rocks (easy) and you are out.

From the edge towards the main summit you follow an easy path (the right one) to the saddle left below the summit cone and towards the right to the top (45 more minutes).

It is best to return back via Bocchetta dei Fondi.

Essential Gear

In spring and early summer, when the tour is most recommendable, you need an ice pick, helmet and crampons. Rope is not needed (for experienced).