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Via F. Schiavi
Route

Via F. Schiavi

 
Via F. Schiavi

Page Type: Route

Location: Furlania, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.55130°N / 13.24570°E

Object Title: Via F. Schiavi

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: Easy climb, UIAA II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Nov 13, 2005 / Mar 3, 2006

Object ID: 167562

Hits: 3214 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Rating The Route (By Hiking Standards)

0. General: From cca 1470m to 2252m, exposition N. Marked, but not protected. Difficulties: UIAA II. For less experienced a rope can be useful.
1. Effort: cca 550m (from the parking place cca 800m). Only for climbing you will need some 1h 30min, for the whole ascent from the road 2h 30min.
2. Power: 4 - Hard
3. Psyche: 4 - Hard
4. Orientation: 2 - Easy.

Approach

 
A self-made map of Monte...
Rosskofel and its routes

See the main page how to get to Baita Winkel, 1470m.

From the meadow, where the hut stands, the marked path continues towards the West. Soon towards the North the path to Madritschen deters, but we continue westwards. Reaching into the basin at the end of Winkel valley, by a big rock there's the crossroads, where we turn left and ascend over screes to the North wall, where the climb begins.

Route Description

The normal North Route goes over the part of the wall, where it shows its only weakness. First we ascend over easy rocks, following good marks. After some 50m the route goes left around the corner. On this exposed spot you might consider roping up. A narrow ledge brings us around the corner, on the other side we climb over a steep section. Places, where we can stand comfortably are distributed on every 20m or so.

Climbing difficulties are constantly around UIAA II for some 200m of altitude. As the route is marked we have no problems with orientation. The route goes mostly up and a bit towards left, occasionally switching ravines, where the rock is not so steep. Finally we find ourselves below a steep wall, which the easy route has to avoid. So it goes towards left (E), crossing short scree slopes and around the rocky corner. There the terrain is much easier. A bit less steep, the concentration is still needed, but that part of the climb is hardly UIAA I. Mostly we gain altitude over a steep rocky and grassy terrain.

Another rock barrier forces us to go left. Now we are already approaching the main ridge (the Eastern one), we think first that the route will go over steep plates on the ridge itself. But no, when we pass the rocky tower, we discover a steep gorge, going up between the tower and the main ridge. So we turn right and start ascending the gorge. Also this part is easy, more or less a walk-up, with some climbing details.

On top of the gorge we reach a notch, from which the summit is already seen. The route crosses the eastern slopes of the side rocky ridge and in an easy climb exits comfortably on the main ridge, a few meters below the highest point, Creta di Pricot, 2252m. To the summit of Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel, 2240m, you have some 15 minutes towards the West.

You best descend by the Ferrata Contin or by the East Ridge Route.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba /...Fiercely is guardingKar na KarnijcePanorama from the summit of...The view from Monte Cavallo...Even if only 11:30 a.m. the...In the North face of Monte...
The upper part of Monte...The northern neighbours of...A self-made map of Monte...