Welcome to SP!  -
Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel
Mountain/Rock

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel

  Featured as a Reworked Page
Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Furlania, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.55130°N / 13.24570°E

Object Title: Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7346 ft / 2239 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Nov 13, 2005 / Jan 4, 2014

Object ID: 154981

Hits: 9923 

Page Score: 93.35%  - 42 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

What's New On This Page?

December 23rd, 2013 - Complete review of the "Routes" chapter. A detailed Google Map embedded with all hiking, scrambling and easy climbing routes. SP V3 design updated.

> August 2nd, 2009 - The links to the last two added routes: NW ascent and Ferrata E. Contin.

> May 29th, 2009 - The S face and W face pictures added, also the link to Via Ferrata dell'Amicizia - "Torre Clampil"/ Kletterstieg der Freundschaft - "Winkelturm/Clampil"

> November 13th, 2005 - Initial set up of the page.

Overview

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel
Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel from the south - from Malga Glazzat Alta
M. Cavallo / Rosskofel from Creta di Aip / Trogkofel
From the north-west
Monte Cavallo / Rosskofel
From the NE

Monte Cavallo - Creta di Rio Secco
Creta di Rio Secco from the W
East and west of Nassfeld / Passo Pramolo saddle the mountains of Carnic Alps main ridge rise for the last time with rocky towers and walls. Creta di Aip / Trogkofel, 2280 m and Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel, 2240 m are standing on the western side of the saddle, while Gartnerkofel, 2195 m is standing on the eastern side.

Like in the highest part of Carnic Alps, in Monte Coglians / Hohe Warte group, also Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel is made of Devonian (Paleozoic) limestone. Its quality is mostly good, not too friable.

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel, 2239 m, is actually a small massif, consisting of some peaks and rocky towers. On the otherwise very good Tabacco map (No. 018) the highest point of the massif is due to an error the summit of Creta di Pricot, standing a bit towards the East of the summit of Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel, marked with 2252 m. Its correct altitude is 2233 m. Even more towards the East, the main ridge of the massif is lowering, but the point 2203 m is still a strong rocky peak and even the last rocky elevation, Anticima Est, 1971 m, looks from the eastern side like a powerful bastion. All these peaks are forming towards the North a nice, up to 500 m high north face, which is so beautifully seen from the nice Winkel valley below it. When you reach the summit over the N wall, you find yourself on a nice, grassy plateau, and you wouldn't think that also the southern slopes of the massif are very steep and rocky. No normal route goes over them and only when going by the East ridge route, you realise, how steep and rocky these slopes are.

North of the summit of Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel the massif ridges branch. Beyond the Notch 2025 m (Forca Clampil) two sharp towers stand, closing the upper part of the Winkel valley. These are Torre Clampil, 2079 m and Torre Winkel, 2040 m. The second crest branches/continues towards the West. The first high summit in it is Creta di Pricotič, 2225 m which is divided from the rest with two notches. Mountains towards the West are less significant and are lowering down into the Valle di Aip, while towards the South quite a strong ridge goes, culminating first in the Creta di Rio Secco, 2203 m, and then lowering more significantly down to the Val Pontebana. In the chapter of routes description, some more side summits will be mentioned.

Like from all summits in the Carnic Alps main ridge, also from Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel you have a great panorama on all sides. The contrast between icy summits of Hohe Tauern on the North and rocky summits of Carnic and Julian Alps on the South is very nice. And on the West, the Dolomites mountains are clearly seen.

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel summit panorama. High peaks are boiling on the western and north-western horizon.

Also in a mountaineering sense Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel is very diverse. No ascent on it is just an easy hike. The easiest one is coming from the NW, from Sella di Aip / Rudnig Sattel (saddle), but also this one has a few stretches of easy climbing (UIAA I-). Over the East ridge a very demanding marked path ascends, it's actually an exposed easy climb (UIAA I), protected by a fixed rope only on one (not the hardest) place. Over the North face a very nice marked route goes. It is not protected and requires on a long section (some 200 m of altitude) easy climbing (UIAA II+). In Torre Clampil and Torre Winkel there are two real ferratas, one of them very hard. Many ascents on side summits are not marked and all require easy scrambling or climbing up to UIAA degree II. And finally, rocky walls of the mountain massif offer also some opportunities for harder climbs. In Good conditions it is possible to ski down by the normal ascent route. Also the western summits are suitable for skiing, if one has appropriate skillls.

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba /...From the SE
The northern neighbours of...In the neighbourhood
Torre Clampilganesh70 - Torre Clampil

Summit Views

As said before, from the summit of Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel you have a great panorama. Let pictures speak...

View to the east
dante - Eastern views
The view from Monte Cavallo...
Towards the north
Chiavals / Zuc dal Bor Group
dante - Zuc dal Boor group

Getting There

On Madritschen/Madrizze
On Madritschen/Madrizze
Madritschen/Madrizze
Madritschen/Madrizze


Carnic Alps - Main Ridge (Eastern part)


For general overview, see the Carnic Alps group page and the Carnic Alps Main Ridge (East) subgroup page. See also the Google Map in the next chapter!

Madritsche
ganesh70 - Madritch lake
Even if only 11:30 a.m. the...
In Winkeltal
A few quick ascents come from the Winkel valley, lying on the north-eastern side of the massif. It can be reached from the road over Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo. Just below the saddle, on the Italian side, there's a sharp turn (and a hut), where the forrest road deters into the valley. The road is closed for public traffic.

The second even quicker option from the North are many trails which reach the main Carnic Alps ridge from the Austrian side, from the ski arena Nassfeld. Many paths, among them the famous Karnischer Hoehenweg / Traversata Carnica, reach there, but forrest roads and alpine meadow roads on the Austrian side are also closed for public traffic. The quickest option is the upper station of Madritschen cable way, reaching 1818 m. Another good trailhead is on Rudnig Alm, 1612m, where you can come by car (toll free).

The third option are approaches from the South. They all start in the beautiful and remote Val Pontebbana. From Pontebba, lying on the Udine-Tarvisio highway, a narrow and often bad road deters towards the West into Val Pontebana. One trailhead starts in Studena Bassa village, 630 m, the other one on Carbonarie, 1055 m, the third one by the Caserute hut, 1419 m, and the last option is Passo del Cason di Lanza, 1552 m, from which a mountain road, closed for public traffic, ascends high towards the Carnic Alps main ridge - the trailhead is on 1750 m.

Routes Overview

Drawing in Google Map detailed courses of hiking and easy climbing routes is a new experience for me. I discovered that the satelite map (switch to it, if not defaulted) is detailed enough that routes can be carefully drawn on it. The source of routes information was in most cases the excelent book of R. Gaberscik.


View Monte Cavallo Di Pontebba / Rosskofel in a larger map. Red = Marked routes, Green = Unmarked, scrambles, easy climbs.

Hikes, Scrambles and Protected Routes


The whole area is very nice for hiking. You can do nice round tours, crossings of the whole massif ar just one-way and back tours. Due to high trailheads the tours are short, but from Pontebbana valley you can choose also very long ones. From Passo Pramollo / Nassfeld Pass you can also do easy and panoramic hikes along the Madritschen/Madrizze ridge. You will gain some 400 meters of altitude, unless coming with a cable-car just on top. Going by the ridge avoid the devastated areas due to ski terrains - keep more towards the Italian side.

Cavallo from Creta di Aip...
DragoA - From Sella di Aip

Creta di Rio Secco, 2203 m


> NE route (normal). Easy climb/scramble (I-), from Forca dei Claps (marked path) 40 min.
> S-SE route. Easy climb (I), from Vallone di Pricotič (marked path) 1 h 10 min.
> S-SE route, variant. Easy climb (I), from Vallone di Pricotič (marked path) 2 h 10 min.
> From Carbonarie in Val Pontebbana. Easy climb/scramble (I-), 4 h.
> SW descent. Scramble, steep, not appropriate for ascent (screes).
> W-NW route. Easy climb/scramble (I-), from Casera di Aip 2 h 10 min.
> N route. Easy climb/scramble (I-), 1 h from marhed path.

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba /...
Creta di Pricotič

Creta di Pricotic, 2225 m


> E route (normal). Hike up, 20 min from marked path.
> Crossing from M. Cavallo. Hiking, 20 min.
> S route. Easy climb/scramble (I-), from marked path 1 h 15 min.
> W route. Easy climb/scramble (I-), from marked path 40 min.
> N route. Easy climb (I), from Rudnig Sattel 1 h, from marked path 30 min.

Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel, 2239 m


On the East ridge of Monte...
On the E ridge
> East Ridge. This is perhaps for non-climbers one of the most interesting approaches. From Baita Winkel (hut), 1470m, towards the SE on Sella della Pridola (saddle), 1644m. This saddle can also be reached from the south, from Conca di Pricot (alpine meadow), which can be reached by the road (closed for public traffic) from Studena Bassa village). From the saddle over the E ridge over all fore-summits to the highest point. 3h from the Winkel parking place. Steep, exposed, easy climb (UIAA I).

Fiercely is guarding
On Via F. Schiavi
> Via F. Schiavi. A very nice route over the N face. From Baita Winkel (hut), 1470m, towards the W in the basin below the N face of the main summit. From there in an easy climb (UIAA II) over the wall to the main summit. 2h 30min.

> Ferrata Contin. As in #2 from Baita Winkel (hut), 1470m, towards the W in the basin below the N face of the main summit. There continue towards the W on the notch 2044, where the ferrata starts. Over the rocky part and towards the S to the summit. 2h 30min. Ferrata is not hard, nor is it too much exposed.

On Madritschen/Madrizze
On Madritschen/Madrizze ridge
> From Sella di Aip / Rudnig Sattel, 1942 m. This is the normal, NW ascent route. It is marked, but a few places require some easy climbing (I-). The saddle lies on the Carnic Alps main ridge and can be reached from many sides. You'll need some 2 h from various starting points on the Austrian side, some 2 h from Passo del Cason di Lanza or from the Caserute hut in Val Pontebana, and some 4 h from Studena Bassa in Val Pontebana, via Conca di Pricot (meadows) and further below the whole S and W face of the massif. From Sella di Aip / Rudnig Sattel the marked path ascends by the Austrian territory towards the SE, reaches the summit plateau close to the exit of the ferrata Contin and continues towards the S to the top. 1 h from the saddle.

> For a descent to Madritschen cable car a shortcut can be recommended. Just before reching down on Rudnig Sattel, you can turn right and descend by a marked, weak path to Traversata Carnica. Then by it towards the east.

> W-SW route. Climbing not needed, easy scramble up. 1 h 30 min from the marked path.

Torre Clampil, 2079 m, and Torre Winkel, 2040 m


> Via Ferrata dell'Amicizia - "Torre Clampil"/ Kletterstieg der Freundschaft - "Winkelturm/Clampil". In the neighbouring Torre Clampil there's an extremely difficult via ferrata.

> Torre Clampil, SW (normal). Easy climb (I), 15 min from Forca Clampil.

> Ferrata Torre Winkel - traverse Torre Clampil. Medium hard, exposed, a few passages of UIAA I. 50 min from marked path or from Madritschen Joch. Some 20 min more if the lower part of E ridge is included.

Harder Climbs


View to the west
dante - summit view
Monte Cavallo
Renata - on the top
Roßkofel / Monte Cavallo, NE wall

> NE wall, Lomasti-Ceccon. E. Lomasti, A. Ceccon, 1977. VI, V+, 200 m.
> NE wall, Via Ermanno. A. Ceccon, G. Domenis, 1971. IV+, III, 250 m.
> NE wall, Gollino-Marinelli memorial route. E. Lomasti, A. Ceccon, 1978. VI-, V+, V, 350 m.
> NE wall, Via Guerrino Di Marco. V. and E. Di Marco, 1976. V+, A0, V, 400 m.
> NE wall, Andrich-Donadelli. Andrich, G. Donadelli, 1969. V, IV, 400 m.
> NE wall, Urli-Ceccon-Domenis. B. Urli, A. Ceccon, G. Domenis, 1969. III+, III, 450 m.

Creta di Pricot, NE and E wall

> NE wall, Urli-Ceccon. B. Urli, A. Ceccon, 1966. III, II, 450 m.
> NE wall, Holl-Gallhuber. P. Holl, H. Gallhuber, 1976. IV+, IV-, 450 m.
> NE wall, Via Pontebba. E. Lomasti, G. Casati, 1975. V, IV+, 450 m.
> NE wall, Via Trevisan. G. Trevisan, R. Paganello, 1969. VI+, III+, 450 m.
> NE wall, Via Buzzi-Buzzi. C. G. Buzzi, G. Buzzi, 1950. III, II, 450 m.
> NE pillar. E. Lomasti, S. Piussi, 1976. VI-, V+, V, 250 m.
> NE wall, Left ravine. Candidi, Gransinic, Prividori, 1968. III, II, 350 m.
> NE wall, Mazzilis-Di Leonardo. R. Mazzilis, L. Di Leonardo, 1980. V+, V, 350 m.
> NE wall, Via Mario Pesamosca. V. & E. Di Marco, S. Piussi, E. Lomasti, 1975. IV, III+, 350 m.
> NE wall, Ceccon-Palla. A. Ceccon, F. Palla, S. Piussi, F. Buzzi, G. Donadelli, 1979. V, IV, 250 m.
> NE wall, Vogric-Di Leonardo. Cl. Vogric, M. Di Leonardo, 1979. IV+, IV, 250 m.
> NE couloir. III, II.
> E wall, right cimney. E. Lomasti, A. Ceccon, 1978. VI-, V+, 250 m.
> E wall, Via Mirta. E. Lomasti, A. Ceccon, S. Piussi, 1976. VI-, A1, V+, 250 m.
> E wall, New route. E. Lomasti, R. Mazzilis, 1978. VI, V+, 250 m.

Roßkofel / Monte Cavallo, S walls

> SW pillar. E. Lomasti, A. Ceccon, R. Mazzilis, L. Zilli, 1978. V, IV, III, 300 m.
> Right SW pillar. III+, III, II, 250 m.

Creta di Pricot, S walls

> SW chimney. E. Lomasti, 1978. II, 120 m.
> SW wall, Left edge. E. Lomasti, R. Mazzilis, 1978. V+, V, 150 m.
> SW wall – Slabs. E. Lomasti, R. Mazzilis, 1978. VI, V, 150 m.

Torre Winkel
Torre Winkel from the S
Torre Clampil, 2097 m, Torre Winkel, 2040 m.

> N wall. F. Wiegele, W. Jaklitsch, 1974. V-, IV, 220 m.
> N rib. F. Unterluggauer, F. Wiegele, 1979. III, II, 180 m.
> N rib, Direct route. F. Unterluggauer, F. Wiegele, W. Kovsca, 1979. V, A1, IV, 180 m.
> E ridge. III, II, 250 m.
> Torre Winkel, S pillar (with exit variant). E. Lomasti, S. Piussi, 1977. VI, V, 160 m.
> Torre Clampil, S pillar. R. Sepperer, F. Unterluggauer, F. Wiegele, 1975. V, IV, 160 m.
> Torre Clampil, S wall. F. Unterluggauer, F. Wiegele, 1975. V-, IV+, IV, 150 m.

Red Tape

In Winkel valley
In Winkel valley
In Winkel valley
Wikel valley is like a parc
There are no limitations.

When To Climb

To ascend Monte Cavallo di Pontebba / Rosskofel it is best to choose dry seasons. The best months should be July-October. In 2005 we also had great conditions mid November. When snow and ice covers the mountain routes might become very demanding, requiring full winter equipment.

For weather conditions, see the main Carnic Alps page!

Mountain Huts

The ascent can be normally done in one day. On Nassfeld Pass / Passo Pramolo there are many hotels, but the majority of them is opened during the skiing season.

On Passo del Cason di Lanza, 1552 m, there's Casera Cason di Lanza (mountain hut).

At the end of Valle di Aip, close to Sella di Aip / Rudnig Sattel, there's Bivacco Ernesto Lomasti, 12 places, 1900 m.

Books

Kar na Karnijce
> R. Gaberscik: Guida escursionistica alle Alpi Carniche. Studio64srl Edizioni, 2010 (7th edition), Genova. In Italian.

> P. Holl: Karnischer Hauptkamm (Alpenvereinsfuehrer). Bergverlag R. Rother, Muenchen, 1988 (2nd edition). In German.

> Guidebook and photomonography (in Slovenian): V. Pogačnik: Kar na Karnijce. Založba Narava, 2011.

Images