Via ferrata south wall

Overview

In the year 2000 it was built a via ferrata through the South wall to the top of Jegihorn.
In the year 2006 there was made another via ferrata in the upper part which is very breathy and with some difficult vertical passages.

It is a great fixed rope route with always a beautiful view to Weissmies, Lagginhorn and Fletschhorn and the complete Mischabel group on the other side. When you reach the east ridge you also have a great view to the Bernese Alps.
The fixed rope route is perfectly saved and all ladders and fixed ropes are in perfect condition (in 2004, 2005 and 2006).

Jägihorn is easy to reach so it is a mountain to make in 1 day.

Getting There

From the cableway station Kreuzboden (2.400 m) you need about 1 h 15 min to the beginning.
When you descend from cableway station Hohsaas (3.200 m) you need about 45 min to the beginning of the fixed rope route (2.800 m).
When you sleep at Weissmies hut (2.726 m) you need 30 minutes to the beginning.
From Saas Grund (1.556 m) you need 4 h to reach the beginning of the fixed rope route.

From Brig you can take a post bus to Saas-Grund. The post bus is a shuttle service between all villages in the Saas valley (Saas Fee, Saas Almagell, Saas Grund, Saas Baalen) and Brig.

Route Description

The original route (built in 2000) of the fixed rope route has difficulty C-D (difficult).

The new route from the east ridge (bulit in 2006) has difficulty D-E and is very breathy.

From cableway station Kreuzboden there are markers on the complete way to the beginning of the fixed rope route.

From Weissmies hut you see the complete route. There are also markers on the way to the beginning. From Weissmies hut you have to cross the small glacier stream and the moraine and go across boulders to the beginning of the fixed rope route.

The complete route is fixed.
At the beginning there are a few meters of easy climbing. You climb on the left side of a ledge. But then you reach a gorge where you have to climb the first vertical passage.
As you see the route on the topo the route leads mostly vertical to the top of the ridge.
So the first ladder follows. In the follow passages the route changes between ladders and airy climbing on the rope.
Ladder no.5 is the last ladder and the you reach the east ridge (3.150 m).

Then you walk down a foot path to the notch (3.096 m) to Jägihorn.
There you can choose between two further ascents to the top.

If you take the difficult one pass the ropeway (very airy and groggy). At the end of the ropeway there is a net where you have to climb vertical for about 4 meters. Then another vertical passage follows where you have to lift you up at the rope. This passage is very airy, exhausting and difficult. Under your feet is nothing for 400 m! This route is more difficult than the first part!!!

If you take the "normal" way it is in the previous difficulty. You follow the ridge at the rope. The rope leads through the east/south east wall and you have good rock blocks to climb.

At 3.160 m these 2 routes come together, first airy in the south wall but not so difficult and the last meters get easier. Before the cross there are some rock blocks easy to go.

From the beginning to the top you need about 3-4 hours.

For this route the constructors used 5 ladders, over 400 hooks and more than 1.000 m of fixed ropes.

From the top you follow the blue-white markers to the west/south-west.
Then the way goes left down to a gorge (look at the markers!). It is a steep descend across big boulders (stressful for the knees).
From the top to Weissmies hut you need about 1 hour. To Kreuzboden you need 1 h 15 min (very fast descend) to 1 h 45 min (normal descend).

So for the complete route you need 6 h 30 min - 8 hours.

Take care that in summer the last cablaway from Kreuzboden passes at 16:45!

Essential Gear

You absolutely need a via ferrata kit! In nearly every passage a fall would be deadly as you always have steep or vertical passages.
A helmet also makes sense.
For the descend walking sticks are not to bad as it is very steep.
Also a must: your camera! Great view!!!

Climbing routes

In the south wall are several climbing routes.
For example:
Alpendurst 2002, 14 SL 4c
Panorama 2004, 10 SL 4b-5b

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Images

View Via ferrata south wall Image Gallery - 39 Images