Vorderer Paradiestalwächter 5.7 - 5.10a

Overview

The Vorderer Paradiestalwächter is a 12 meter high rock in the Paradise valley.
It offers 9 routes of the UIAA gradesV to VI+.
The rock is vertical and offers an overhang, so its possible to climb in dry rock even when its raining. The secure points and return hooks are very well.
On top of the Paradiestalwächter is a big tree wich you can reach easy on the backside of the rock, there you can install a toprope.
The rock structure offers holes, borders, cracks and slopes

Getting There

Highway 70 from Bamberg in direction of Bayreuth,
take the exit Stadelhofen.
Left direction , you pass the village Wotzendorf in direction to Eichenhüll.
Follow the way to Eichehnüll and then to Treunitz.
In Treunitz go left to Hollfeld, after 750 meters is the Paradise Valley at the right side
On the left side of the road is a small parking range.
Entering the Paradise Valley you reach the Vorderer Paradiestalwächter after 500 meters direct beside the way on your right.

Red Tape

The whole area is a natural park, The Paradiestalwächter is a Zone 2 Rock, that means

Zone 2 : Climb only on the existing routes up to the returning hook, no new
routes
New routes possibly after consultation of the appropriate authority.

Camping

There are a lot of cheap guest houses in Treunitz and the villages around.
Wild camping is not allowed.
There are also some camping areas around Treunitz and the other villages

External Links

German Link with an overview of the routes

http://www.klettern.frankenjura.com/php3/select_fels.php3?id=1-05-4

Images

View Vorderer Paradiestalwächter 5.7 - 5.10a Image Gallery - 4 Images