Wolfstein 5.1 - 5.11b

Overview

Wolfstein is a boulder in the heart of the Frankenjura. It has several benefits which makes it very popular. First it easy to reach. Then the climbing routes are from III to VIII- (5.1 to 5.11b), so a rather large range of capabilities will be covered. Next the rock is very solid (12 to 15 meters of finest limestone) and the secures are really good. And last but not least the ground is even. So one can belay very comfortable, and children can play safely between the widesprayed boulders in the surrounding forest.
But the disadvantage is, due to the mentioned the rock is often overcrowded. So the best time for undisturbed climbing is in the early morning or on weekdays …

Getting There

From Nuremberg follow the B2 to the east to the small village of Gräfenberg. Past Gräfenberg branch to the left to Egloffstein and after 5 minutes then to the right heading Obertrubach. Now you are driving through the Trubachtal (Trubach valley), one of the most romantic spots in the world (Don’t you laugh when you read this! Come and visit the valley and THEN we’re gonna discuss ;-). Besides the Trubachtal offers more than 30 rocks on a distance of about 20 kilometers. Hey, this IS climbers paradise …

In Obertrubach head to the left to Bärnfels. In Bärnfels you drive to the right heading to Graisch and after 500 meters again to the right to Graisch. About 500 Meters past the village limit a small way branches to the left. A few meters on that way and you can leave your car under the trees.

From the car follow the signs for the hiking way (a green bar) uphill. After about 150 meters right steeply uphill to the rock.

Climbing routes

North side

• Der Wolf und die sieben Geißlein   VII-      5.10c


• Nordkante                                     VII-       5.10b       Overhanging


• Der mit dem Wolf tanzt                 VIII-       5.11b


• Rumpelstilzchens Zorn                   VII         5.10c


• Schräge Rissverschneidung             VI         5.9


• Sterntaler                                       VII       5.10c

West side

• Tapferes Schneiderlein                   V+      5.7


• Westpfeiler                                    V         5.6


• Froschkönig                                   V         5.6


• Schneewittchen                            III+     5.2


• Böser Wolf                                    V-       5.5

South side

• Werwolf                                        VII-    5.10b        slighty overhanging


• Hans im Glück                                V+      5.7            Tricky start


• Rübezahl                                        IV-      5.5


• Frau Holle                                     IV        5.3


• Hase und Igel                                IV        5.3


• Max und Moritz                            VI-      5.8


• Witwe Bolte                                  V        5.6

East side

• Jubiläumsweg                                IV      5.3


• Hänsel                                          V        5.6


• Gretel                                           V+      5.7              Never!! At least VI-/5.8


• Ostriss                                          V+      5.7

Red tape

Actually this rock isn’t inhibited. Of course there are strict bannings for free camping and that stuff.

Camping and accomodation

Of course there is the camping area of Oma Eichler, situated in the Trubachtal. The spot is designed for climbers and rather cheap.
If you prefer a bed and your own shower there are some hotels and pensions in Obertrubach.

Maps and books

Sebastian Schwertner: Frankenjura Band 2, Panico Verlag, 3-926807-96-2. An updated issue will be published about every one and a half year.

You can find route descriptions and more pics at frankenjura.com

Images

View Wolfstein 5.1 - 5.11b Image Gallery - 6 Images