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Vrata Valley routes
Route

Vrata Valley routes

 
Vrata Valley routes

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.38330°N / 13.85000°E

Object Title: Vrata Valley routes

Route Type: Hike, Rock Climbing, Basic Snow

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: Rock Climbing, secured trails

Route Quality: 
 - 16 Votes
 

 

Page By: Velebit

Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2002 / Mar 4, 2006

Object ID: 156938

Hits: 14435 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Routes

Starting point for routes from Vrata valley is Aljazev Dom hut (1015m) in Vrata valley (more in 'Objects' section on main page). It is accessible by car, 12km from Mojstrana village, which lies on the main road from Ljubljana to Kranjska Gora resort. Three different trails ascend from Aljazev Dom hut towards Triglav.

1a) Aljazev Dom hut – Kredarica hut via Tominskov Pot trail – 5h
1b) Aljazev Dom hut – Kredarica hut via Cez Prag trail – 5.30h
2) Kredarica hut – Triglav 1.30h
3) Aljazev Dom – Triglav via Ljuknja pass and Bambergov Pot trail – 6-7h

Aljazev Dom hut – Kredarica hut via Tominskov Pot trail: 5h

Slovenian mountaineering society built Tominskov pot trail in 1903 as a contrary to German built Cez Prag trail. It is more suitable for ascent, while descending via Cez Prag trail. In the late spring Tominskova pot is suitable only for experienced mountaineers because of very steep snowy slopes and couloirs. It is also not suitable for those afraid of heights.

From Aljazev Dom hut you head up the valley till the monument to fallen Partisans in the mountains in WW II. Trail begins here by turning left over a dry creek bed. It climbs steeply through the beech forest, than turns right, all the time steeper and steeper till it gets out of deep couloir and above the forest line. Above us are huge cliffs of Cmir peak (2393m). Path is heading right climbing more gradually towards small head with great view named “Bife”. From here Triglav’s Face opens up in all its grandeur. View is also impressive down on Vrata valley floor, deep bellow and the peaks on the other side of the valley, led by Skrlatica peak (2740m). Path still leads towards right, climbing and using system of shelves in the Cmir’s face. Then we cross steep Hudicev Zleb couloir, where snow lies long into summer. Path now climbs over less exposed cliffs. Our sight is locked all the time on Triglav; deep bellow us we see Cez Prag trail. Path is very well secured and equipped with fixed ropes and pegs. After some 4 hours of climbing path flattens, in front of us we see red cliff of Begunjski vrh peak (2461m). After few minutes over the scree you reach a week source at the cliff. Altitude is 2100m. From the right we are joined by Cez Prag trail.
After the source path continues to climb steeply over the scree slope, for a while, below the Begunjski vrh peak cliff. On the junction of paths we continue right, towards Kredarica hut, while on the left path heads for Stanicev Dom hut. For the next hour we climb quite steeply over the huge rocky area called Kotel till Kredarica hut suddenly appears in front of you.

Aljazev Dom hut – Kredarica hut via Cez Prag trail: 5.30h

German Alpenverein built Cez Prag trail in 19th century. It is technically easier than Tominskova pot trail but little bit longer. It is better for descent.
From Aljazev Dom hut head up the valley, pass by Monument to Partisans (where Tominskova pot trail begins). From here Triglav’s north face is right on your palm, towering wildly above. After some 30 minutes trail crosses over the creek to the left (straight path leads towards Luknja pass) and begins to climb steeply over the grassy or snowy slope, reaching the first of few rocky or cliffy steps. Here first metal pegs greet us. After 100 meters of vertical climbing path turns. It goes far left, ascending over long grassy shelf, while crossing many couloirs. Then it turns right and begins to climb again steeply, in many sharp bends, sometimes over scree, which lies in between many rocky or cliffy steps. One of those steps is called Medvedova Skala or Bears Step, which is 10 meters high, smooth cliff, secured by metal pegs and fixed steel rope. Scree slopes between cliffs are very steep and tough. After 4 hours from Aljazev Dom hut, above the highest lying step we join Tominskova pot trail. For further going read that section.

Kredarica hut – Triglav: 1.30h

Path descents on the pass bellow Triglav and begin to ascent steeply, over the scree and rocky slope towards the entrance to Triglav’s face. Here we encounter first pegs, which takes us towards left, using narrow shelf. Bellow you is deep abyss, secure fixed ropes and pegs take us safely towards Mali Triglav. Without them this would be pure alpinism! Ascent is very attractive with amazing views. Just bellow the top of Mali Triglav, after some 45 minutes of climbing, we are joined from the left by Planika hut trail.
In front of us is notorious, razor sharp ridge, which was great obstacle for the first climbers of Triglav. Today fixed ropes very well secure this section and there is no need for riding the ridge, what first climbers had to do. After this flat section, path climbs steeply again till it reaches the top where Aljazev Stolp greets you.

Aljazev Dom – Triglav via Bambergov Pot trail: 6-7h

From Aljazev Dom hut we follow the same path like going to Cez Prag trail. On the junction, near the Triglavska Bistrica creek, where Cez Prag trail turns left you continue straight up the valley. Just above is mighty Triglav’s north face. It becomes steeper and steeper till valley turns into scree couloir between Triglav’s face on the left and cliffs of Bovski Gamsovec. This is not the place for claustrophobic people. After 2 hours you reach the Luknja pass (1758m). View opens towards Zadnjica valley and 1500m high cliffs of Kanjavec (2568m).
Our path turns left towards steep cliff. We are helped by secure pegs and fixed ropes, without them this section would be pure alpinism. After the cliff ascent flattens little bit but continues to be steep. Path is heading up mostly right of ridge, but on few places it touches the edge of Triglav’s north place, huge abyss opens. Sides are very exposed and steep, secured only where it is necessary so this is only for experienced mountaineers. After 2.30h slope flattens little bit going over larger horizontal section only to climb again steeply behind it. On the top of this section hardest part is behind you. View opens on amazing towers and couloirs of Triglav’s north face, especially on nearby “Sfinga”.
From here it descends towards sharp pass and than climbs gradually on the edge of Plemenice. Plemenice are large plateau on the edge of Triglavs summit pyramid. Path leads us along large plateau’s, above Sfinga. After that turns right and ascends on a higher plateau, where we are close to Morbegna barracks (2500m). Here we join the path from Dolic hut. It continues to climbs over scree slopes bellow cliffs of Triglav. When we reach them path, secured with fixed ropes and pegs, climbs steeply to the right over the bottom of red couloir till it reaches Triglavska skrbina (2659m). Path than turns left and climbs southern Triglav’s ridge all the way to the top. Views are very wide all the time.

This is toughest Triglav approach and is only for experienced and an equipped mountaineer to whom is warmly recommended. Trail is long and hard. Plemenice section is under snow long into the summer.

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axe are necessary in winter and spring. Crampons might be good to have in early summer, depends on amount of snow that was accumulated durring the winter. In high summer season only the normal few days hiking gear is necessary.

Images