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W ridge - Hartmann
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W ridge - Hartmann

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W ridge - Hartmann

Page Type: Route

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.14369°N / 10.89243°E

Object Title: W ridge - Hartmann

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: D (IV-V Uiaa)

Number of Pitches: 20

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Dec 26, 2007 / Jan 6, 2008

Object ID: 368006

Hits: 2838 

Page Score: 90.48%  - 32 Votes 

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Overview

from the Bocca di Brenta path
 
The West ridge of Campanile Alto di Brenta is the "minor brother" of Crozzon di Brenta's N ridge : a little shorter (600 m of difference in elevation) but much more continuous (no easy pitches).

This is, I think, the best route to Campanile Alto.

The Hartmann route follows the edge of the ridge, passing along all the towers that build it, and goes on very fine, rough and even sharp rock.
Only the last pitch, leading to the channel between the 2 summits (the S one is the higher) can give some, little, problems of falling stones.

Getting There

For this route the best starting points are Rifugio Brentei (2182m) and Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m)

you can get here starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m) :
by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m),
then on foot (path 317) to Rif. Casinei and (path 318) in 2 h walk from Vallesinella to arrive to Rifugio Brentei
One more hour,a long the path t Bocca di Brenta, for the Rifugio Pedrotti

From Rifugio Brentei walk along the path to Rifugio Pedrotti-Bocca di Brenta and in a litle time (20-30') you get, where the path ends to be on a rocky ledge.
Up about 100m along the scree and 50 more metres on easy rocks until a small shelf (cairn) 20 m on the left of the edge.

Route Description

Up along a vertical crack to a ledge that must be followed to the right.
Straight on along the edge to a shelf.
To the left along a chimney then a short wall till a niche under a cracked dihedral.
Up along the dihedral (key passage) then along a chimney to the summit of the first tower.
Straight along the edge (very exposed) up to the second tower.
Along the edge till a square overhang that can be passed on the left side, then always on the edge till the third tower.
Now, to avoid to loose time with a rappel (the yellow tower) is better (even if more difficult) to cross to the left for some tens meters to get a chimney (difficult) leading to the notch between the yellow tower and the upper part of the ridge.
Now along the edge up to arrive to a small gendarme, up to the next small shoulder, and, crossing to the right, you get the notch between the two summits.
Straight on to the right to the main summit.

here a photo sequence
Campanile Alto - the towers of the W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 
Campanile Alto - W ridge
 


Descend along the normal route to the East (2 rappels)

Essential Gear

Classic : 40m rope, some carabiniers - a good supply of water if the weather is sunny

Images