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Campanile Alto di Brenta
Mountain/Rock

Campanile Alto di Brenta

 
Campanile Alto di Brenta

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.16630°N / 10.89180°E

Object Title: Campanile Alto di Brenta

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9635 ft / 2937 m

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Dec 13, 2003 / Dec 26, 2007

Object ID: 152152

Hits: 7274 

Page Score: 81.15%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

in the central Dolomiti of Brenta there is a chain called "Sfulmini": it starts from Cima Molveno and ends with Brenta Alta. This chain has two very different structure when seen from east or from west.

From east it looks like a big (almost uniform) wall with some elevations growing up here and there and looks like a big ridge of the main northern mountain (Torre di Brenta) 
Campanile Basso (2883m),...
 
  

From west the scenery is quite different : the Campanile Alto grows up between (on its NW side) a wide basin delimited by a big ridge, coming down toward W from the Torre di Brenta (ending with the Torre Prati), 4 rocky smart spires of the Sfulmini and, of course, the high NW wall of Campanile itself.

 
This view shows from the...
 
  

Between them a big edge-ridge-pillar (the W ridge, 700m drop from base to top) gives to Campanile Alto the importance it deserves in the structure and in the whole group.

 
On its SW side a big spur, almost a giant shoulder, surrounds it ending with a very fine vertical wall of 250m called Torrione Comici 
the big SW shoulder of...
 
  


Really it looks like the bigger brother of Campanile Basso, two very different shapes :
- the "Basso" is more smart,
- the "Alto" is more mitghy
... but they have in common two characteristic,
- the way they soar into the sky
- nobody here call the with their complete name : when one says, I'm going to climb the "Alto" or the "Basso" all know what they're speaking of


routes overview

Its routes are not climbed as they are worthy of.
here the most important (the only climbed ...)

- normal route (East chimneys) is easy (2° - 3°) - 200m
- south wall is fine and amusing (3°+) - 300-600m
- west ridge is a very fine alpine climb (4° - 4°+) - 650m (or more)
- north-west wall is not attractive but has a (they say) fine route : Oggioni diedre

some pics ....

of the normal route

Getting There

can reach normal route and south wall with "sentiero delle Bocchette Centrali"
easier to get the start of west ridge ... directly in few minutes from the route of Bocca di Brenta - from ref.Brentei

Red Tape

you must ask weather permission :))

When to climb

july - september
in june and october there may be some problems on the "bocchette"

Rifugi (Huts)

for all climbs the starting point are Rifugio Brentei (2182m), Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m) or Rifugio Alimonta (2580m)

you can get them starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m) :
- by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
- on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei,
- then path 318, in 2 h walk from Vallesinella you get the Rif.Brentei
- in 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta you can get the Rif.Pedrotti or
- in 1 more hour, you can get the Rif: Alimonta

You can find all infos about Refuges at :
Rifugi
(multilingual)

tks to Gangolf Haub for the info

Images