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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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41.16217°N / 105.3761°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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5.4-5.5 |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.4 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Overview
Being an easy climb and only a few minutes away from parking lots, Walt's Wall might be the most popular climb on the eponymously-named formation even though Edward's Crack is considered the must-do route here.
Despite being easy, WW stands out for being among the relatively few 3-pitch trad routes at Vedauwoo (and as far as I can tell, there are no 4-or-more-pitch routes out here). Because of the grade and the fixed anchors, a lot of people do this route as their first Vedauwoo lead.
As someone who has done most of his climbing in a few notoriously sandbagged areas, I found this climb very easy for the grade, and I found it surprising that some respectable sources have put this climb at 5.5. Although I've only spent a few days climbing at Vedauwoo, which has a reputation for stiff grades, my impression is that the off-widths feel tough for the grade, probably because not a lot of people climb off-widths and thus most climbers lack good technique for them, but that the others feel about right or slightly easier than what I am used to. Walt's Wall, the route, is not an off-width. So, if you normally climb in an area considered hard for the grade, you will likely find this climb easier than 5.4.
Of course, we're talking 5.4, where most people aren't going to fall, but this might matter to new leaders thinking about protecting an iffy move.
And just about every leader was there once.
Often, this route is said to be a great beginner's lead because of its grade, the available pro, and the bolted anchors atop each pitch. However, I would argue that only the first pitch is that great for a new leader. The second and third pitches, while technically easier, are more exposed and, respectively, trickier to place good pro (especially at the start) and mostly run-out.
Walt's Wall and Coke Bottle, sunrise-- the route is just left of the cornerGetting There
From I-80 between Laramie and Cheyenne, leave the highway at Exit 329, marked for Vedauwoo. This is about 16 miles from Laramie. Take Vedauwoo Road east and drive 1.2 miles before turning left onto a well-signed road for the Vedauwoo Recreation Area. Stop at the self-pay station and then proceed. Signs point you to the campground, picnic areas, and trailheads. Park at either the West Turtle Rock TH or the Box Canyon one.
Vedauwoo Road is usually clear of snow by May and sometimes as early as April.
From the TH you choose, scrambling and use trails will get you to the base of the climb. The route is easy to locate from the road and easy to find. It is just left of the corner where the Coke Bottle and Walt's Wall meet.
Walt's Wall and the Coke Bottle from the roadRoute Description
In all, this route climbs around 250 vertical feet, though the back-and-forth nature of the second pitch makes it actually longer than that.
P1-- 5.4. This is the hardest pitch, and also the best-protected; some people climb just this pitch and then rappel or lower off the anchors. Follow the obvious crack/flake system up to a ledge and then left to bolted anchors.
Walt's Wall Route, First PitchP2-- 5.2. Easier climbing, but more pucker factor. Move left along the narrow, slightly vegetated ledge (look for stopper placements to avoid a Factor 2 fall on the anchor and/or your follower swinging if he or she falls), round a corner, and then move up and right, with good pro, to the anchors, which are almost directly above the anchors for the first pitch. Some sources say the pro is iffy on this pitch; that is not the case if you just look, and, as of writing this page, I had only been leading for 2 years, so more-experienced leaders would probably find better placements than I did. Also, there are a couple of good bolts along the way; clip them.
 Second pitch from the ground |
 From the anchors |
P3-- 5.2 slab. Some sources say this pitch is all runout, but that is not the case. About halfway up, there is a flake that takes pro. Would this flake hold a big fall? I have no idea. But it will probably hold you if you fall moving past it. And if you were able to lead the first pitch, you easily have the physical ability to finish this last one.
Third PitchAfter the third pitch, a short Class 4 scramble gets you to the actual top of the formation, where there are awesome views and lots of potholes that may be water-filled.
To the top-- there is an easier way just to the right of this view.To descend, many people rap down the Walt's Wall route, but that can get crowded on busy days. Other options are using the Fourth of July anchor off to the left as you face out from the end, anchors on Coke Bottle routes, or hiking down the NE side of the formation, which deposits one in Box Canyon. Thus, the walk-off is not a great option for anyone parking at West Turtle Rock TH, though it's not exactly going to turn the day into an epic.
Pothole atop Walt's WallEssential Gear
A set of stoppers and cams will do the trick, with, of course, some long slings or cords and some locking carabiners for the anchors. I carried a full set of Master Cams, plus the two largest Power Cams, and two sets of stoppers. Pieces used ranged from the #2 to #8 sizes of the Metolius cams and various sizes of stoppers.I had a 50m rope and it was sufficient for everything. A 60m rope would probably not enable you to combine two raps into one, but a 70m might. Do so at your own risk; tie off the ends and be able to climb back up if necessary!
Update 10/2016-- I recently climbed this route again with a 60m rope and another in tow. By joining the ropes, we were able to rap back down in a single go with a yard or two to spare.