Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

 
Weeping Rock Chimney is a 60m chimney located on Weeping Rock wall to the far right of the Cerberus Gendarme Wall and before you make the turn into Weeping Wall itself. It is featured as a 5.7 two pitch route, more specifically referred to by Alex McAfee, author of “Zion Rock, the Finest Climbs of Zion National Park”, as “one of the best in the canyon for its grade”. Supposedly the route continues up the wall into 5.10 territory. Directly to the left is Ion Shadows, a classic 5.11b free route put up by Conrad Anker and Brad Quinn.
 
The first pitch of Weeping Rock Chimney is a pure trad climb with tons of placement opportunity making it a good training crag for up and coming trad leaders. The second pitch has one rusted bolt and, although not as aesthetic and therefore not climbed as often, is a fun continuation of Weeping Rock Chimney.

Drive or take the park shuttle to the Weeping Wall parking area in Zion Canyon. Walk up canyon via the road and the Weeping Rock Chimney will become obvious on the wall to the right. The chimney is obvious as well as the two stations to the left that belong to Ion Shadows. There is no trail up the hill, but one of two minor washes get you past the cacti to the base of the wall.

Route Description

1st Pitch- (100’) 5.7/ The first pitch angles up right via a ramp. A perfect seam on the left allows plenty of placement that takes you past a tree on the right and then the ramp gives up two seams on either side as it ascends deeper into the chimney and to the webbing/bolt anchor on the right wall above a very comfortable belay station.

2nd Pitch- (85’) 5.6/ The second pitch is not climbed near as often as the first pitch. In fact the rap/belay station could use reinforcement or be replaced (two rusty hangers/bolts). The ascent is classic however and should not be missed. The ground is steeper than the first pitch as you basically stem up the deep chimney, moving out when it gets too narrow. Focus on either wall’s features versus the many loose blocks stuffing the interior of the chimney. There is a seam or two on the left wall you can protect into and then it is a little run out until you reach a rusty bolt higher up on the left wall. Continue stemming until the walls widen too much to do so. Then move left and back right up precarious sandstone, again, looking to fully weight only the wall features you discover here and there. Protect into a seam to the left and move back right to finish the last part of the chimney below a rusted station on the left wall.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap the route. The first rap is interesting in that you barely fit through the chimney on rappel and might have to readjust some of your gear to one side of your harness.

Essential Gear

Double ropes might save you a rap but I would suspect they would have a good chance of getting stuck on the pull. I advise one 60m rope. You need several pieces of medium to large gear. The guidebook calls for a “free Zion rack” which includes two of each camelots .6 through 3 along with a 4 and one set of nuts. This will be more than adequate for this route, but is a good standard for your typical free climbing in Zion. Take half a dozen draws or more, several ought to be long to allow you to protect the chimney and move away on the 2nd pitch.

External Links

• The Many Free Routes in Zion National Park
  
• Oscar’s Café, the only place for climbers to truly fill their appetite (free range chicken, beef and Hank’s Tanker) and meet one of the finer climbers and individuals I know on the face of the earth, Zach Lee, someone who has established many of his own local FA’s in the area.
  
• Zion National Park
  trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices/closures, weather conditions, camping permits, canyon water levels, etc.
  
• Best True Technical Clothing and Accessories in the Outdoor Industry, Hands Down....the Legit Climbers Gear at Real Prices
  
• Scarpa, has surpassed La Sportiva in terms of quality, function, value and actually stand by their warranties
  
• Osprey Backpacks, Not a Second Choice
  
• Great Outdoors Depot

Images

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