Hike or drive the jeep road from hell to Como Lake. Set up a high camp just above Como Lake at timberline 11,900 ft. There are many fine camp sites there just above the road.
Your route starts right from camp 11,900 ft. Climb the steep north facing gully up to ridge's notch at 12,580 ft.. Hike ridge east on your left to base of the Hour Glass. The trail is well marked. The fun starts here with a pitch of 3rd class followed by a full pitch of class 4 climbing. Try to stay left of the running water. From the top of the 4th class pitch climb about 400 ft. of class 3 to ridge trying to stay to the right. The rock is very loose and any rock you send down will hit climbers below you! Climb some easy 3rd class to your left following short ridge to summit. There are rappel anchors on the way down and most people rappel the crux. Be carefull and warn climbers below you that you are coming down!
In spring and early summer you need an ice axe and crampons. Two ropes and webbing are needed if you are going to rappel route. There is really no protection on the crux. so leave your rock pro at home. In late summer you can leave crampons and ice axe at home.
In mid-August 2010 a rather ratty, tattered rope was present in the hourglass. We went down the entire rope length one at a time, holding the rope as a backup but fortunately did not actually have to use it. Why would anyone leave a good rope here anyway?
Posted Aug 20, 2010 11:02 pm
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