- Climber Sensitivity Training Wall (5.8)-- If you like slab climbing with small holds and lots of balancy stuff, set up a toprope here and have fun. My partner and I found at least four distinct lines up the wall, the easiest going at 5.7 and the hardest about 5.10. The wall is only about 30' high, but from the ledge above it, there is the option of finishing up the pillar above, which is a 5.9 called Thumbthing Else. Your anchor will be up there, anyway, so why not do it as well?
- Thumbthing Else (5.9-)-- If you use the edge with great holds to the left, it's not 5.9. Going straight up the face of this pinnacle, which is slightly overhanging, feels more like 5.10, though once you figure out the sequence, it's not too bad.
- Gap of Rohan (5.6)-- A good warm-up for toproping or leading. Follow a finger crack to a ledge and then a much larger crack to an obvious notch. This route will take gear up to a #4 C4, but you can do it on gear smaller than that. A long runner is nice for slinging the tree on the ledge.
- Where Eagles Dare (5.10d)-- Start on the Sherpa Connection crack and then head up a seam after a few feet.
- The Sherpa Connection (5.8)-- Regarded as the best trad route at Sugarloaf. The start is an easy scramble up to a ledge; you may not even place pro along this part. Then sling the tree at the left end of the obvious crack and get to work on the diagonal crack. Hands are great; feet can be sketchy. About midway along, there is a black jug that is a lifesaver just as you are starting to worry about finding a good stance to place your next piece. One day this hold will break and make the climb at least a grade harder. Beyond it is a bomber nut placement, but this was my first 5.8 lead and the stance was sketchy, so I ran it out until the next good stance. I led this with a standard rack of cams and nuts.
- Force 10 (5.10c)-- This heads up the wall from near the end of the Sherpa Connection crack.
- Phasers on Stun (5.5)-- I started leading this but realized I didn't have big-enough gear, so I scrambled back down. You probably need at least two hexes or cams the size of a C4 #4.
- Sugar and Spice (5.4)-- Just to the right of Phasers.
- Lucifer Direct (5.11-)-- This route and the remaining two are around the corner from the main wall. I have not climbed them or even looked at them, so I can't say anything more about them.
- Lucifer (5.10)
- Green Thumb (5.9-)
Red TapeNone. Just obey posted regulations.
Sugarloaf is privately owned. The corporation that owns it is friendly to climbers, so don't abuse that. Use safe practices and clean up after yourself.