Winter 2015 with Urubko Camp

winter summit

I climbed this mountain during the meteorological winter 2015 with Denis Urubko and friends from his camp

We started from kislovodsk and with 4x4 vehicle we reached the place of Dzhily-Su

The climb takes place on the NORTH side, very wild and not very organized 
There are 2 camp; first one at 2500 and other at 3800; simple shacks, old and cold
We put a couple of tents in a crevasse at 4800 for acclimatization (1 night at -40 ° C and strong wind) and for safety during the ascent / descent from the summit

The normal route following the Lenz Rocks was too dangerous, with a lot of ice and strong wind ... so we followed "our" more central line in the middle of the wall and the crevasses

The 10th of December 2015 we started from the field at 3800 up to the summit 'cause we were very well acclimated
We didn't start from 4800 because sleeping there was very cold and difficult, better more steps but better sleep

8 guys on summit, the ascent took 8 hours

Temperatures during shipping have never been higher than -20 ° C ... minimum recorded -40 ° C

Climb not difficult but requires excellent physical shape and excellent acclimatization, especially in winter

As said the N flank is very wild and not very frequented; nothing to compare to the S side, with lifts, shelters and sun all day (not a little variable)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZOlSYbPfMg - youtube video