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Y Couloir
Route

Y Couloir

 
Y Couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: Haute Savoie (Mont Blanc), France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.96060°N / 7.01790°E

Object Title: Y Couloir

Route Type: Snow/ice climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: AD

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Probemeister

Created/Edited: May 3, 2002 / May 3, 2002

Object ID: 156424

Hits: 6255 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach


From the Argntiere hut, head SW towards the Ameythysts Glacier, stay on the moraine until it meets the glacier, then stay reasonably high (but not too high) on the glacier, contouring under the cliffs until a broad, obvious snow couloir becomes visible, this is the Y couloir

Route Description


Well, we crossed the bergschrund directly as it was early in the season (mid July), this gave a short section of 60 degree neve and then 45 degree snow all the way up the couloir. Later in the season it may be necessary to climb rocks to the right of the bergschrund, have to see a guidebook about this though. From the top of the gully head up the broad snow ridge to the summit in 10 mins, watch out for cornices overhanging the north face.

Descent: Normal route via the Milieu Glacier

In good conditions as we had the round trip can be done in 5 hours, later in the season the bergschrund may take longer and the descent could be icy with more crevasse trouble.

Important: Due to the south facing aspect of these routes it is important to be off the steep upper part of the descent route as by 10 am the snow will start to turn bad.

Essential Gear


Crampons, 2 ice tools (mostly for the bergschrund), helmet, 1 rope, 2 ice screws (couloir is snow and so won't take screws, screws just for crevasse rescue on the descent) rock gear may be needed for the alternative start avoiding the bergschrund

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

 Tom Fralich going up on the...Tom Fralich soloing the Y...Tom Fralich enjoying the...The start of the Y Couloir....The Y Couloir with ist two...