From the Argntiere hut, head SW towards the Ameythysts Glacier, stay on the moraine until it meets the glacier, then stay reasonably high (but not too high) on the glacier, contouring under the cliffs until a broad, obvious snow couloir becomes visible, this is the Y couloir
Well, we crossed the bergschrund directly as it was early in the season (mid July), this gave a short section of 60 degree neve and then 45 degree snow all the way up the couloir. Later in the season it may be necessary to climb rocks to the right of the bergschrund, have to see a guidebook about this though. From the top of the gully head up the broad snow ridge to the summit in 10 mins, watch out for cornices overhanging the north face.
Descent: Normal route via the Milieu Glacier
In good conditions as we had the round trip can be done in 5 hours, later in the season the bergschrund may take longer and the descent could be icy with more crevasse trouble.
Important: Due to the south facing aspect of these routes it is important to be off the steep upper part of the descent route as by 10 am the snow will start to turn bad.
Crampons, 2 ice tools (mostly for the bergschrund), helmet, 1 rope, 2 ice screws (couloir is snow and so won't take screws, screws just for crevasse rescue on the descent) rock gear may be needed for the alternative start avoiding the bergschrund
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