Overview
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| Aiguille d'Argentière seen from Grands Montets (March 2001) - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu |
Dedication:
In memory of Rahel Maria Liu, the former maintainer of this page. Rahel died on the Innominata Spur to Mont Blanc in a snow storm on August 24th, 2004.
 |  |  |  |  | | Sunrise | Glacier du Milieu | Adenostyles | Sunset | Glacier du Milieu |
Aiguille d'Argentière - a peak in the Mont Blanc Massif
The Aiguille d'Argentière (3902 m) is situated in the Mont Blanc Massif, in the North of some major peaks as the Mont Blanc and Les Droites and south-east of
Aiguille du Chardonnet.
It is a very beautiful and interesting mountain concerning its shape and with regard to the ascents.
 | | Aiguille d'Argentière - Photo by andrea.it |
According to Eberlein, there exist more than 50 ascents (although he does not name all).
Most famous are the Normal Route and the North Face ascents. But also the SW Ridge and the many ridge towers provide many interesting climbing routes. There only more in the Aiguilles of Chamonix.
Historical notes
First ascent: E. Whymper and A. Reilly with M. Croz, M. Payot and H. Charlet on the 15th of July 1864.
Panoramic View of Aiguille d'Argentière - Glacier du Milieu - Glacier d'Argentière - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu
| Aiguille du Chardonnet - Aiguille d'Argentière - Tour Noir - Aiguilles Rouges du Mont Dolent - Mont Dolent - Aiguille de Triolet - | Show labels |
Route Overview
ROUTES - Photos by andrea.it - gabriele/Jeroen Vels - El Tigre Valderrama - schadik
 |  |  |  | Ski route
W Side | North Face
N Side | Y Couloir
S Side | ESE & NE Ridge
E Side |
 | SW Flank - Glacier du Milieu: |
 | W Flank and NW Ridge - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière: |
 | N Face | - Ascent from the foot: |
 | NE Face - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière: |
 | ESE Ridge - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière: |
 | Jardin Ridge - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière: |
Climber's Logs
Getting there
1. To the Aiguille d'Argentièree
You come from the Ref. d'Argentière.
2. To the Ref. d'Argentière
In order to reach the hut, you have 3 possibilities:
From Croix de Lognan (1970 m) in 3 - 3,5 h, to Croix de Lognan with cable car from Argentière: From Croix de Lognan, you go on foot up over the morainecrest till about 2250m. Than you continue horizontally to the glacier, which you follow on the orographically left side. After about 1 km, the glacier becomes steeper and more torn. You climb onto the morain of the Rognons, first over a slippery shelf, than via a marked way which you follow until you reach the upper end of the ice break. You climb the glacier in SE direction and reach over the moraine the hut.
On foot from Argentière in 5 h: From the ground station of the cable car, you follow the wide aisle of the ski-run. You leave it at the height of about 1750m and reach the way of the middle station of the cable car (2 h). Now, you need 3 h to the hut.
From Aiguille des Grands Montets (summit station of the cable car from Argentière; last train up: 4:45 p.m.) in 2 h: From the summit station, you go via a stairway to the Col des Grandes Montets. You traverse a bergschrund (maybe with the help of a rope) and go up the steep hang to the Glacier Rognons. You go in ENE direction on the western side along P. 3000 to P. 2754m. You go down southeastern to the glacier d'Argentière, which you reach above the icebreak. From here in 2 h to the hut.
You reach Argentière by train (from Martigny/CH or Geneva or Annecy - TGV to St. Gervais), bus (from Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin) or car from Geneva or Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets.
3. You reach the Chamonix Valley by train:
From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.
From Geneva (airport) via Anncey (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.
4. You reach the Chamonix Valley by bus:
From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin
5. You reach the Chamonix Valley by car:
From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205.
From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.
6. You reach the Val Ferret (Italy) by bus or car:
From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.
From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.
When to climbIt depends on your capabilities ... (summer and winter).
Views of Aiguille d'Argentière - Photos by barrys, Jurgen Mesman, om, schadik
 |  |  |  | | | Summit View | SW Flank | N Side | W Side | E Face |
CampingThere are campingplaces in
Mountainhut
Refuge d'Argentière (2271 m)
 | Refuge d'Argentière is a modern big hut with a view directly to the northfaces on the opposite side: from Aiguille Verte to Mont Dolent. It is situated near the corner where the Glacier d'Argentière and the Glacier des Améthystes come together. |
You reach the Refuge d'Argentière:
from Croix de Lognan (1970 m) in 3 - 3,5 h, to Croix de Lognan with cable car from Argentière
on foot from Argentière in 5 h
from Aiguille des Grands Montets (Summit Station of the cable car from Argentière) in 2 h
Mountain Conditions and General Information
Sunrise ... With this beautiful panorama of all the major mountains of the Mont Blanc Group - Photo by Jurgen Mesman:
Mont Blanc, Aiguille du Midi, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille d'Argentiére, Aiguille du Chardonnent and the Aiguille du Tour
WEATHER INFOS
GENERAL INFOS
TRAIN CHAMONIX VALLEY
Phone: 0033/450 53 1298 - 0033/8 36 35 35 35
0033/450530702 (Train station Chamonix)
Phone of the Montenvers-train: ++33(0)450/531254
Ticket shop
BUS CHAMONIX VALLEY
Phone: 0033/450 53 0555 - 0033/450 53 0115
CABLE CARS
Map
View of Adenostyles Alpina - Glacier d'Argentière - Glacier de Saleina - Cicerbita Alpina - Photos by Hiltrud Liu, Modi, Andy Kennedy and noah
 |  |  |  |  | | Adenostyles | Glacier d'Argentière | Crossing Glacier d'Argentière | Glacier de Saleina | Cicerbita |
Books
- Hartmut Eberlein, Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer, 2000 or 2012, amazon.de (look at the contents Aiguille d'Argentière)
- Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. amazon.com (look at the contents Aiguille d'Argentière)
- Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996. ISBN 1-898573-03-4. amazon.de or amazon.com (look at the contents)
- Erich Vanis, Im steilen Eis. 80 Eiswände in den Alpen. Munich et al. 1980. ISBN 3-405-12158-2. amazon.de
- Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Editions Ice 1996. ISBN 2950986803. UKClimbing.com
- Laroche/Lelong: Die Gipfel des Montblanc. Munich 1999. ISBN 3-405-15693-9. amazon.de
- Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998. ISBN 3-7633-7427-2. amazon.de
- Lindsay Griffin, Mont Blanc Massif, Vol. 2 - Published Alpine Club (2002) - ISBN 0-900523-58-1. amazon.com)
External Links
Link MountainArea
Images
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