OverviewThese are the two obvious gullies, left and right, that form a prominent "y" on the north face.
While I can't put up a truly A+ page on this route, I had to at least get it out there, because it is a real classic.
Getting ThereBoth are accessed in a straightforward fashion from either end of pine creek lake. See the rest of the mountain's page for directions to the lake.
Route DescriptionLeft Gully: Perhaps the better of the two, this couloir ascends almost directly to the summit. About 45 degree alpine ice, w/ water ice later in the season. Rock on the right side of the gully is reportedly sound for pro/belays. Can melt out somewhat later in the year exposing climbers to excessive amounts of rock fall.
Right Gully: Very similar to the left, technically speaking. You obviously have to jog across to the summit after completing the gully portion of the climb.
Both climbs are @ 1000'
Beware of rockfall, particularly later in the season(obviously).
Descent: Scramble down Northwest ridge and snowfields back to the lake.
Essential Gear-light alpine rack
-a couple deadmen or screws, depending on conditions
-one or two ice tools/axe depending on conditions
-standard alpine gear relative to season