Y-gullies

Overview

These are the two obvious gullies, left and right, that form a prominent "y" on the north face.
While I can't put up a truly A+ page on this route, I had to at least get it out there, because it is a real classic.

Getting There

Both are accessed in a straightforward fashion from either end of pine creek lake. See the rest of the mountain's page for directions to the lake.

Route Description

Left Gully: Perhaps the better of the two, this couloir ascends almost directly to the summit. About 45 degree alpine ice, w/ water ice later in the season. Rock on the right side of the gully is reportedly sound for pro/belays. Can melt out somewhat later in the year exposing climbers to excessive amounts of rock fall.

Right Gully: Very similar to the left, technically speaking. You obviously have to jog across to the summit after completing the gully portion of the climb.

Both climbs are @ 1000'
Beware of rockfall, particularly later in the season(obviously).

Descent: Scramble down Northwest ridge and snowfields back to the lake.

Essential Gear

-light alpine rack
-rope(s)
-a couple deadmen or screws, depending on conditions
-crampons
-one or two ice tools/axe depending on conditions
-standard alpine gear relative to season

External Links

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Images

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