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Yanapaccha 2010
Trip Report

Yanapaccha 2010

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Yanapaccha 2010

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Peru, South America

Object Title: Yanapaccha 2010

Date Climbed/Hiked: Aug 4, 2010

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

 

Page By: albanberg

Created/Edited: Sep 2, 2010 / Oct 25, 2010

Object ID: 656822

Hits: 3233 

Page Score: 87.31%  - 24 Votes 

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Overview of Trip

Last year we went did the Santa Cruz trek, Pisco, and Huascaran. I didn't get a summit on Huascaran and we both enjoyed the trip so we thought that we would go back. The plan was to do Yanapaccha, Chopicalqui, and Huascaran. I did a trip report on Huascaran last year.

We arrived in Lima short one bag of gear so we took a rest day for our first day in Huaraz. I would plan a rest day for any future trips as the trip from California, via Miami, to Lima, and then to Huaraz is long. The bus ride from Lima to Huaraz is 8 hours. So we had more than 24 hours of continuous travel and waiting around before we got to our hotel.



Acclimatization

We decided to do a one day hike to lake Aguak (sounds like awak) outside of Huaraz. Aguak is at 4560m which is 14,960 ft. This hike is steep/flat/steep. The hike went well enough and gave us nice views of Huaraz that we had not seen before.
Aguak Approach
 


The above image is at the middle flat section. This was taken on the way down.

Huaraz from Aguak
 


This shows the view of Huaraz and the trail from below the lake.

Lake Aguak
 


The image above is, of course, lake Aguak.

We spent the night in Huaraz and left the next morning for Cebollapampa to do another trek. Oh, and Jackie pushed too hard on the Aguak hike and threw up when we got back to the hotel. She was OK for dinner though soon after!

Cebollapampa Camp
 


Above is the Cebollapampa camp and Jackie talking with the guide and cook about the food.

Towards Lake 69
 


After getting set up in camp we headed out to lake 69 in the afternoon.

Waterfall on the hike to Lake 69
 

A waterfall on the way to lake 69.

Huascaran
 

Lake 69 is below Chacraraju/Pisco and above the end of the valley. In the picture above, from the end of the valley, you can see all the way back to Cebollapampa, which is on the valley floor below Huascaran Norte.

Lake 69/Pisco
 


Above is lake 69 with Pisco in the background. Not a great image, but you should get the idea. From the side of the lake it's very hard to get an image of the lake and the mountains. It's a great view there. I have an image of Chacraraju from the lake, I'll post that here:

Chacraraju
 


On the way back to camp we got to see a great sunset on Huascaran Norte:
Huascaran Norte at Sunset
 


We got up the next day and took a taxi to up the road to the trailhead for Yanapaccha.












To Yanapaccha Base Camp

In taxi we had the driver, Jackie and myself, the guide, the cook, the porter and our gear. Gear that would not fit inside was strapped to the roof:
Taxi at Yanapaccha Trail Head
 


Below is our gear in the foreground and another group in the background. Chopicalqui and Huascaran in the background.
Heading into Yanapaccha Base Camp
 


Below is taken from the Yanapaccha trailhead...or close to it. You can see much of the trail to Pisco base camp and the Refugio on the lower left.
Huandoys and Pisco
 


This is the beginning of the trail with Chacraraju in the background:
Trail to Yanapaccha
 


The trail is up and down and it's a decent 2 to 2.5 hours to get to base camp. Don't be fooled if they tell you it's flat. It's a good hike on goat trails.

Here's a view back down the valley to the lakes with the Huandoys on the right:
Valley View on the Trail to Yanapaccha
 


Here's a view looking back towards the trail head. You can see a couple of porters carrying loads in:
Trail from Yanapaccha Trail Head
 


And here's a look forward from close to that spot:
Trail to Yanapaccha
 


Arriving at base camp:
Yanapaccha Base Camp
 


Cooking at camp (Jackie was sick again, so I ate her portion!):
Cooking at Yanapaccha Base Camp
 


The mountain from base camp:
Yanapaccha
 






The Climb

The moraine was very rough but short. At the start of the glacier there were some interesting large steps/jumps that we had to make over crevasses and I was thinking that it would have freaked out Jackie. She puked again the night before so she didn't go up.

Once we got up a bit on the glacier it was fairly straight forward. But I would say that Yanapaccha, although lower, is a quite a bit harder than Pisco. Many say that it's just a bit more technical but those technical sections take effort also. The guides don't have to put in pickets for you on Pisco as it's a snow hike. The hard part on Pisco is dealing with the moraine.

So my guide Eloy had to belay me on several pitches...I forget how many...maybe 5 or 6 each way. Here are the sunrise pictures from 3/4 or so up:

Huascaran:
Huascaran Sunrise
 


Huascaran:
Huascaran Sur at Sunrise
 


The Huandoys and Pisco:
Huandoy and Pisco Sunrise
 


You can see from the the Huascaran pics above that the climbing on Yanapaccha is fairly steep.

Here's my summit pic with Chacraraju in the background:
Yanapaccha Summit
 


Here's the actual summit behind Eloy:
Eloy with Yanapaccha Summit
 


We made good time to summit, taking only 3 hours to get to the platform below the summit and another half hour for me to get to the top behind Eloy.

Here's the summit story (why I don't have an actual summit pic):

I had heard that others were not doing the summit before I even got to Peru this year. We got up there and Eloy thought it was ok to cross the ice bridge that was down in the crevasse (you can't see where it was from the picture). He made it across and placed an ice screw on the wall above and a picket at the summit. The bridge broke on me, of course, but it was not that big of a deal. I fell maybe 3 feet or so and then climbed the wall and then the ridge to the summit. It was very cold up there so I didn't take any pictures.

It took Eloy about an hour to get us back across the crevasse. I belayed him while he went down into the crevasse and stood on a little ledge. He reached across and got one ice tool in at a time and was, at this point, leaning out over the open crevasse. Next he got his left front points in and then he had to commit to get his right foot planted. After he was solid on the wall he moved each ice tool farther up on the top of the crevasse and then pulled himself up. I just copied his moves after he set up a belay for me. He had to come back across to get me set up and to take out the ice screw. We traded off belaying each other, which was cool and a good experience.

I was cold going down and I kept my down jacket on, along with everything else I had, most of the way down. I was shivering a bit at each belay point. So I could have taken one more layer with me. I finally warmed up on the lower part of the Glacier.

Here's the view to the other side from the summit (or from that platform below the summit anyway):
View from Yanapaccha Summit (1)
 

View from Yanapaccha Summit (2)
 


Below is an Image of Eloy rappelling the last pitch:
Yanapaccha Descent
 


Images

Yanapaccha Descent

Comments


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Viewing: 1-14 of 14    

shottolobeautiful

shottolo

Voted 10/10

great trip!
thank you for sharing
Posted Sep 3, 2010 4:15 am

albanbergRe: beautiful

albanberg

Hasn't voted

Thank you!
Posted Sep 3, 2010 9:12 am

SenadRhi

SenadR

Voted 10/10

Nice report.
Posted Sep 3, 2010 11:19 am

albanbergRe: hi

albanberg

Hasn't voted

Thanks SenadR for reading...
Posted Sep 4, 2010 1:38 pm

EricChuGood report!

EricChu

Voted 10/10

And wonderful photos!!
Cheers,
EricChu (formerly MauriceRavel)
Posted Sep 4, 2010 4:48 pm

albanbergRe: Good report!

albanberg

Hasn't voted

Hi Eric, thanks for reading!
Posted Sep 4, 2010 5:12 pm

Jukka AhonenGood stuff!

Jukka Ahonen

Voted 10/10

Thanks for the read - especially since I am planning a trip to that mountain next summer! I have to say, the pictures look beautiful.

Cheers!
Posted Sep 6, 2010 8:23 am

albanbergRe: Good stuff!

albanberg

Hasn't voted

Thanks Dubzion! It is very beautiful there. I'm planning on doing a report on Chopicalqui too.

Posted Sep 6, 2010 11:48 am

Brian CVery cool!

Brian C

Voted 10/10

Nice photos and good report.
Posted Sep 6, 2010 11:21 am

albanbergRe: Very cool!

albanberg

Hasn't voted

Thanks for reading Brian!
Posted Sep 6, 2010 11:49 am

BHunewillcool photos

BHunewill

Hasn't voted

Thanks for the incredible TR!
Posted Sep 7, 2010 12:39 am

albanbergRe: cool photos

albanberg

Hasn't voted

You're welcome BHunewill, thank you very much for reading!
Posted Sep 7, 2010 9:17 am

Alex WoodAmazing Photos

Alex Wood

Hasn't voted

Great trip report with some amazing photos! Nice photography work! Looks like an amazing area!
Posted Sep 9, 2010 3:21 am

albanbergRe: Amazing Photos

albanberg

Hasn't voted

Thank you Alex, yes it is an amazing area with many high mountains!
Posted Sep 9, 2010 8:45 am

Viewing: 1-14 of 14