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Zabljak route

 
Zabljak route

Page Type: Route

Location: Zabljak county, Montenegro, Europe

Lat/Lon: 43.12330°N / 19.03690°E

Object Title: Zabljak route

Route Type: Marked Path, Hike, some easy Rock Climbing

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Hike with some easy rock climbing

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Velebit

Created/Edited: Aug 24, 2004 / Feb 9, 2007

Object ID: 161926

Hits: 7024 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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About Route

Zabljak approach is considered to be classic way to climb Bobotov Kuk. It leads over northern slopes of Durmitor through the ever changing scenery. Trailhead of the route is by the Crno Jezero lake, 3km from the center of Zabljak. One can park a car 800m before the lake. At first route leads through beautiful conifer forest which is in higher elevations replaced by beech. Once out of forest, at the edge of Indjini Dolovi, route splits: one branch leads via Lokvice valley where small refuge and several shepherds’ houses are placed while the other leads via Ledena Pecina (Icy Cave). These two variations meet at the edge of Valoviti Do. Grass ends here as you enter harsh rocky world of high mountain in the last third of the route. In final push path uses narrow shelves in the summit pyramid. This is much tougher and longer than any of two southern approaches. Trailhead is 500m lower and it lasts over 5h but in terms of mountain scenery this route has it all. Of course, it is best to combine this route with southern Sedlo route. This way you get to see all the diversity of Durmitor.

Zabljak – Lokvice or Ledena Pecina – Valoviti Do – Bobotov Kuk: 5.20h

Route can be split into 3 sections:

Section 1) Crno Jezero – Indjini Dolovi
Section 2a) Indjini Dolovi – Lokvice – Biljegov Do
Section 2b) Indjini Dolovi – Ledena Pecina – Biljegov Do
Section 3) Biljegov Do – Valoviti Do – Bobotov Kuk

Section 1) Crno Jezero – Indjini Dolovi: 1.20h

Starting point of the route is Jaksica Mlin mill on Mlinski Potok creek, some 300m north of Crno Jezero lake. From the parking, 800m before Crno Jezero, there are two options to get there. One leads immediately up and via Ivan Do, group of scattered holiday houses on the hills above, and then gradually descends through the forest (15mins total to Jaksica Mlin). The other option leads by the shore of Crno Jezero and is twice longer but bit more beautiful. First you need 10mins till the shore, then 10mins right by the shore and final few minutes to the mill once signs point you away from the lake (20-25mins total to Jaksica Mlin).

From the creek path ascends steeply at first, then more gradually through beautiful conifer forest. 30mins from the creek you’ll reach Kamenjaca terrace, where is usual break. Path continues to ascend, on places quite steeply, through the changing forest. With altitude beech gradually replaces conifers till you find yourself in completely beech forest. This means that soon you are out of forest. Left, through the branches, Crno Jezero lake is visible. After 30mins you are out of the forest, on the edge of Indjini Dolovi, area of many small funnel shaped depressions with rare beech trees, 1h from Jaksica Mlin. Beautiful view of Medjed (2287m) opens at this spot, behind is Zabljak and part of Crno Jezero. Here is also a junction where sections 2a and 2b split.

Section 2a) Indjini Dolovi – Lokvice – Biljegov Do: 1.40h

From the junction path continues straight, traversing the northern sides above Indjini Dolovi. There is bit of going up and down. After first short descent there is junction where path towards Medjed branches towards left. Soon path enters narrow passage, like a small gorge, which is around 1km long, from 3 to 30m wide and up to 40m deep. Through it path continues to ascent towards Lokvice. One spot is so narrow that rocks had to be broken to widen the path. Place is called Tijesno Brojiste (tight counting place) because shepherds use to count cattle here. After 30mins you are on top of ascent and suddenly behind narrow door Lokvice valley opens in front of you. It is hard to believe how huge this space is after some time spent in narrow gorge. View from this spot is amazing and comes as a real surprise. Left above Medjed (2287m) steeply rises with cliffs that are partially overgrown with dense colonies of dwarf pine. In front are three peaks that grab attention: half hidden id north face of Terzin Bogaz (2303m), right of it is rounded Bandijerna (2409m) while right is sharp summit of Minin Bogaz (2387m). Below is steep face called Pasovi (layers), which rises from bottom of Lokvice valley, and is partially made of horizontal layers of cliffs partially of steep green terraces, looks fantastic. From the door there is short descent to the bottom of this part of the valley (1776m). On the left is Radulova Koliba deserted wooden cabin. After a minute on the bottom there is short ascent to the summit of rounded head which rises above the bottom. On its top is Katun Lokvice, group of shepherd’s houses, and mountain refuge (1800m), 40mins from Indjini Dolovi, 1.40 from the mill.

By the refuge is junction. Left path leads towards Velika Privija pass and from it towards Medjed (2287m), Terzin Bogaz (2303m) or down into Velika Kalica valley. Right path leads to Bobotov Kuk. Above the refuge comes short ascent then immediately bit bigger drop after which path traverses steep scree or grassy slopes of Cvorov Bogaz (2152m), around 100m above Vir u Lokvicama, small lake placed at the lowest point of Lokvice valley (1693m). Fantastic views spread above it. After some 10mins you’ll reach bottom of very steep ascent that will lead you up the side called Prla and some 210m higher, into Biljegov Do. Prla is mix of steep scree or grassy slopes. Path surmounts it in numerous serpentines. Aim is passage between Pasovi face, on the left, and Cvorov Bogaz peak, on the right. Views from this ascent are amazing and they get better with each step, as you leave green bottom of Lokvice deeper and deeper. After some 40mins from Lokvice Katun you are on the pass (1965m) at the edge of Biljegov Do, rounded basin with very steep sides that descent from Obla Glava (2303m), which is in front, and Cvorov Bogaz (2152m), which is on the right. Its bottom is buried under large boulders. In glacial times glacier used to descent this way from Valoviti Do and further down where it would meet glacier in Lokvice valley. On the pass is junction. Right path leads to Ledena Pecina (Icy Cave), left one to Minin Bogaz (2387m), Bobotov Kuk is straight forward.

Behind is short descent into Biljegov Do and another short section over the bottom before you hit steep climb. Marks lead over the scree, smooth rock plates that are partially overgrown with dwarf pine or over steep grassy terraces. After 20mins your on the terrace below mighty Rbatina (2401m) and out of Biljegov Do. Here is junction, at 2080m, where from left comes the variation via Korita & Ledena Pecina. Till here you needed 1h from Lokvice, 1.40h from Indjini Dolovi, 2.40 from the Jaksica Mlin and 3h from Crno Jezero.

Section 2b) Indjini Dolovi – Ledena Pecina – Biljegov Do: 2h

On the junction go right. Path gradually ascends while it winds between the dwarf pine colonies and small funnel shaped depressions. After some 15mins you’ll pass by deserted shepherd’s cabins called Barske Kolibe and in next 15mins by the Stari Katun cabins. Path now enters the area of wild carst where terrain is mix of smooth rocky plates, funnel shaped depressions and holes, and all is partially covered with dwarf pine or grass. It winds around kilometers through this beautiful labyrinth, gradually ascending, till last larger funnel shaped depression which you reach in next 25mins. Once out of it you are at the foot of rounded Obla Glava (2303) (rounded head). Path turns sharply left and steep part of the ascent begins. Path goes over quite difficult terrain which is mix of rocky plates, boulders, scree and grass. Aim is ridge between Paljevine (2160m) on the left and Obla Glava on the right. Steep snow fields cover the scree long into the summer so there is a big chance you’ll have to go over some of them. Once on the ridge you get to see the opening of Ledena Pecina cave. Up to here you needed 1.40h from the junction in Indjini Dolovi. Over the scree and grass there are few dozen meters of altitude till the entrance. From here beautiful view of Durmitor peaks spreads.

Descent into the cave leads down the steep snow field which can be icy. It is around 40m long. Crampons or ice ax would be of great help but who has a wish to carry them when this is the only place you might need them, in mid summer of course. On the bottom of the cave is a hall decorated with icy towers and pillars of all heights and dimensions. Some are true work of art.

From the entrance path descends over the steep grassy or rocky slope some 15mins till the junction at the top of Biljegov Do basin. From the left variation via Lokvice valley comes, rising steeply from Biljegov Do. Here they join and one path continues towards Bobotov Kuk. Till here you needed almost 2h from Indjini Dolovi, 3h from Jaksica Mlin and 3.20h from Crno Jezero.

Section 3) Biljegov Do – Valoviti Do – Bobotov Kuk: 2h

From the junction path ascends shortly till the grassy shoulder where large rocky basin of Valoviti Do, which is strewn with boulders, opens in front. Above it sharp and elegant Minin Bogaz (2387m) rises. From the right powerful eastern side of Rbatina (2401m) dominates. Path gradually descends traversing steep grassy side and after few minutes reaches junction where Bobotov Kuk (2522m) and Bezimeni Vrh (2487m) fully come into view. From this spot path goes right towards Bezimeni Vrh, 10mins from previous junction.

Our aim is wide pass Velika Privija (2351m) between Lucin Vrh (2396m) and Bobotov Kuk but first boulder strewn bottom of Valoviti Do awaits you. Between bottom of Valoviti Do and cliffs of the peaks above are immense scree slopes. From the junction path descend a bit and then begins to find its way through Valoviti Do. At first it goes through dwarf pine but soon only boulders and snow fields separate you from bottom of the climb. Marks lead right by the Kleknata Glavica (2179m), a rounded head which rises like island above Valoviti Do. Top of the head is under dwarf pine (Klek) so it is obvious how it got its name (dwarf pine head). Mountain refuge used to stand on top of it but it burned and wasn’t rebuilt. Till here you need some 30mins from previous junction.

Now you have reached the foot of 200m high steep slope below Velika Privija while Bobotov Kuk towers right above. You can almost touch it but still some sweat has to go out before the summit. Marks lead steeply up over the scree slopes or areas of more stable rock. After a while there is water source on the right. Ascent doesn’t let go. Long into the summer steep snow fields cover the scree so till beginning of July it is not unwise to have crampons. Over the scree you reach the pass after 40mins, 4.20h from Jaksica Mlin. View which opens here upon the southern side of Durmitor will surely amaze you. Left is fantastic group of 14 sharp teeth Zupci (2309m) while right of it green color dominates. Behind Zupci is elegant Sedlena Greda (2227m), right of it ridge of Boljska Greda (2091m), opening of Komarnica canyon, in front of opening green waves of Dobri Do, behind opening Vojnik (1997m) mountain. Closer below are green and white layers of Vjetrna Brda (2231m). On the pass is junction where from south southern routes come. First they met on Zeleni Vir (2028m) lake, which is not visible below.

Ascent continues towards right. Path ascends over the scree along the southern foot of summit pyramid of Bobotov Kuk. Its summit is not visible. After 10mins probably most spectacular view one can find on Durmitor opens in front of you! You are on the narrow pass between Djevojka (2440m) on the left and Bobotov Kuk (2522m) on the right, at the edge of huge face formed by the western faces of these peaks. Their verticals are lost in the depths deep below your feet, below them are immense scree slopes and amazing green Skrka valley with its two beautiful blue lakes and mighty but gentle green Prutas (2393m) peak left of the lakes. Mountaineers named the pass Skrcki Pogled or the view of Skrka. Don’t worry, even when one knows how fantastic view opens from this spot surprise is still complete.

From the small pass path continues horizontally for a minute or two, using narrow grassy shelf in the western face of Bobotov Kuk. This is magnificent section, on the left is nothing but 700m of air above Skrka valley Then it turns right and ascends steeply over the rock, use of hands is necessary. Then again goes right using narrow shelf. Once on the southern shoulder of the peak marks turn sharply left and soon you are on the summit of highest peak of Durmitor, 15min from the Skrcki Pogled pass, 5h from Jaksica Mlin.

Images

 Botovov Kuk from Valoviti Do