Zeleniška smer (route)

Overview

Zeleniska smer is a short winter alpine climbing route in the northern face of Begunjscica mountain at Karavanke/Karawanken. This route is very popular in winter due to its difficult grade, short approach and easy descent. Therefore expect to have other climbers in the route.

 
 

Approach

The starting point for Zeleniska smer route is Ljubelj pass (1.367 mtrs) at the Karavanke/Karawanken chain, situated some 11 kilometers north of Tržic town. At Ljubelj pass you will find ski lift for Zelenica, which you can use if it is open or you just follow ski piste towards Dom na Zelenici mountain hut. You will need about 1:30 hrs from parking lot.

Route Description

From the Dom na Zelenici hut you go strait up over the Zgornji plaz towards Centralna grapa ravine and before you enter the ravine you turn right to the end of snowfield below the NW cliffs/ridge of Begunjscica.

Zeleniska smer route is the 5th ravine (in the corner) right of big ravine Centralna grapa, which is used for descending.

  First part of the route is not so difficult - some 40°/50°. Gradually the route becomes more steeper and if the conditions are good there should be no problems. Difficult parts (2 jumps) you will find at the lower half of the route. 1st jump is easier/smaller - about 70°, UIAA 2/3, 3 mtrs of rock, while 2nd is much harder - about 4 mtrs high chimney, UIAA 4. Usually both jumps are covered with thin ice and some snow, but still you will need to apply some dry-tooling technique.

After this you have to climb beautiful and steep ravine till the exit on NW ridge. Once you are on the ridge, first you have to descend (on the other side) a little and then climb back up on the ridge again. Follow the ridge till the Begunjscica summit.

Additional comment: when there is lack of snow you may have another easier 'jump' at the very entrance of ravine.

Descent

Best way to descent back to Zelenica valley and Ljubelj pass is via Centralna grapa ravine, which starts right below the summit.

More info for this ravine you can find on Osrednja grapa (Centralna grapa) ravine

Views

 From the ravine itself you can not see much, only interesting Na Možeh ridge above Dom na Zelenici hut.

Once you exit the ravine, on top of final ridge, beautiful view opens on the other side towards Begunjscica summit, nearby Stol mountain and mighty Triglav far in the distance.

Essential Gear

Good mountaineering shoes, helmet, technical ice axes, crampons and rope. Also, depending on conditions, ice screws and few pegs can be very useful.

Along the left side of ravine, before and above 2nd & 3rd jump, you can find old pegs in the rock, which are still good for protection and belay.

Red Tape

This is winter ascent, so always check for local weather & avalanche reports!!

Here you can read avalanche reports, but unfortunately only on Slovenian language:

Avalanche report for Slovenia

Local weather forecast is on:

Weather report

Weather report

Images

View Zeleniška smer (route) Image Gallery - 19 Images