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Zugspitze - Jubiläumsgrat

 
Zugspitze - Jubiläumsgrat

Page Type: Album

Object Title: Zugspitze - Jubiläumsgrat

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing

 

Page By: Peter K

Created/Edited: Dec 26, 2007 / Sep 15, 2010

Object ID: 368013

Hits: 3663 

Page Score: 80.49% - 12 Votes 

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Preface - A 2010 retrospect

The plan

In december 2007 we planed to climb the Jubiläumsgrat Ridge of the Zugspitze, a classic but demanding winter climb in the german Wetterstein Range.
Our fitness was good - at least we thought so -, our technical abilities were better than the climb was demanding and the weather pretty stable. The only problem we had was the heavy snow fall some days before the intended weekend, but we hoped the snow would settle or be blown away by the time we arrive at the Zugspitze. This was actually not the case...

Together with István and his two friends, who we met at the beginning of the climb, we've experienced our longest and most tricky tour by then.
We've spent 19.5 hours from the Zugspitze to the bivy hut and another 16 hours from the bivy to the Osterfelderkopf station, climbing in total 35 hours with 4 hours of sleep in between.
It was not only the snow, which caused troubles - mainly it was the lack of experience, too heavy baggage, overprotection, insufficient fitness - all of this mixed with high ambitions.

I don't regret this tour - but it tought me several principles of mountaineering and allowed me to recognize how far endurance and volition can last, and also its limits.

Thank you István for your ideas.


Some advices

Go fast & light. Leave tent, thermal mat & sleeping bag at home, take a bivy bag - head for the bivy hut - until then, climb on.
• Don't try to protect every steep part of this climb, this is unnecessary and takes time.
• If there's too much powder, head home or brace yourself for two or more long days.
• We took our via ferrata sets for a walk only - the via ferrata is either snowed in or easy terrain.
• Don't even think about descending to the valley across the flanks (cliffs!) - several have tried, nobody reached the deck alive.

Dec 18 2007 - The Approach

Zugspitze massif
Zugspitz massif
Camp at Eibsee
Camp at Eibsee

Dec 19 2007 - Zugspitze to bivouac

Eibseebahn
Eibseebahn cable car
Münchener Haus and weather station
Münchener Haus
Zugspitzplatt
Zugspitzplatt ski slopes
Jubiläumsgrat
Jubiläumsgrat
Zugspitze
Zugspitze summit
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Zugspitze shadow
 
Getting ready
 
Start of the climb
Start of the climb
Zugspitze summit
At the Zugspitze summit
Zugspitze restaurant
 
First meters
First meters
Via ferrata
 
 Only for trained individuals
"Only for trained individuals"
Jubiläumsgrat
The ridge
Jubiläumsgrat near Zugspitze
 
Rest
Peter
István
István
Daniel
Daniel
Höllentalspitzen
Höllentalspitzen
Mixed
 
Easy climbing
Easy climbing
Back on top of the ridge
 
Up & downs
Up & downs
Belaying
Belaying
Innere Höllentalspitze
Innere Höllentalspitze
Slipping along the ridge
Slipping along the ridge
Exposed traverse
Exposed traverse
Yet another step
Yet another step

Dec 20 2007 - Bivouac to Osterfelderkopf

Images


Cooking
Cooking at the Grathütterl
Mittlere Höllentalspitze
Mittlere Höllentalspitze
Wetterstein panorama
Panorama
Grathütterl
Bivy hut
Hut book entry
Our hut book entry
We continue...
We continue...
Äußere Höllentalspitze
 
Towards Vollkarspitze
Descending towards Vollkarspitze
Snow passages
 
CS
CS
Vollkarspitze
Vollkarspitze west face
Vollkarspitze via ferrata
Via ferrata
Descending the Vollkarspitze
 
Rest
Resting
Our party
Our party
Sundown
Sundown
Valley of Garmisch-Partenkirchen
The valley
Sundown
Kirchtürme
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Lights of Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Last rays of sun
Last rays of sun
 Official end
"Official end"
Traversing below Hochblassen
Climbing through the night
Couloir
Couloir back to the ridge
Alpspitze
Alpspitze summit
Osterfelderkopf
Osterfelderkopf
Alpspitze north face
Alpspitze north face
Memory
CS and me
Yet another step

Yet another step

Valley of Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Valley of Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Rest

Rest

Belaying

Belaying

Äußere Höllentalspitze

Äußere Höllentalspitze

Mixed

Mixed

Back on top of the ridge

Back on top of the ridge

Zugspitze summit

Zugspitze summit

Alpspitze north face

Alpspitze north face

Sundown

Sundown

Up & downs

Up & downs

Jubiläumsgrat near Zugspitze

Jubiläumsgrat near Zugspitze

Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Mittlere Höllentalspitze

Mittlere Höllentalspitze

CS

CS


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