In this trip/foto report i like to share a trip with you. From 27 till 29 of june 2008 we were in Germany, climbing the zugspitze by Höllental, then in two days over the Julilaümsgrat to the Alpspitze. We decide to do the ridge in two days using the bivouac on the ridge because we had the time and weather on our side, and also we didn't know what to espect on the ridge so we were not very light and fast. The report contains more pictures then text because pictures say so much more then words....
Friday 27 june 2008
We arrived Early in the morning from Holland to Hammersbach. The weather doesn't look very well but we take off for the trip by the Höllental to the Zugspitze. This route starts at the Höllentalklamm, this is a very beautiful klamm. After this we enter the Höllental.
Klettersteig to Zugspitze.
In the Höllental we have passed the Höllentalhut and from here we get up in the Höllental. The first klettersteig is in a rockface leading higher to the Höllentalglacier. Climbing was stil easy goïng here. But after passing the glacier, in the klettersteigpart to the summit i all went heavyer. A night driving and going up by this long way wasn't very easy, but the route was very well and technicaly not hard. After reaching the summit we had a good night in the Munchnerhaus on the summit of the Zugspitze.
Saturday 28 june:Jubilaümsgrat part one
On saturdaymorning we started our tour to climb the Jubilaümsgrat between Zugspitze and Alpspitze. In the morning there were some clouds but the weather was clearing up and looks good for the day. The first part of the ridge was small and more airy than we were expecting. The rock was not hard to climb but on some parts we have to take good care, not all parts are secured with cables. It suprises me that some easy parts have cables and harder or parts were you look deep down not. This rock on the ridge is nog a kind of rock were you easy can belay. I think a friend come out like nothing.The first dat on the ridge was a nice one but it takes longer then we expected. but we had bivouac equiment and food with use so we take it easy, climbing over the Innere and Mittlere Höllentalspitzen till we reach the Gratthüttle were we sleep that night.
Night in the Gratthüttle, Bivouac on the Jubilaümsridge.
It's a small hut, with four beds were you can sleep in case of emergency with eight people. Nice views around.
Sunday 29 june 2008: Jubilaümsgrat part two
We start up at the bivouac with great weather for the last part of the ridge and to climb the Alpspitze. In this last part we had to climb the Aussere Höllentalspitze and the Volkarspitze, the steepest klettersteig in the ridge. From here we went down to the Griesskarscharte and we climbed the Alpsspitze by the SW-ridge. A problem we had was drinking water. Because we had used the bivouac and the was no water on the route we were running out off water. This was a serious problem, it was a very warm day, but lucky for us we get a big bottle of water from some very kind people on the Alpspitze. If they mayby reading this:Thanks a lot again!!
the way down....
From the Alpspitze we take the way down to the Alpspitzbahn, cablecar by the route going under the N-face of the Alpspitze, nice route with tunnels in the face, looking forward for good food and a beer! After getting back in Hammersbach we went home to Holland, we had a good weekend climbing.
Overview to Jubilaümsgrat
The last four foto are taken from the Alpspitze and contains the ridge in parts.
The Jubilaümsgrat is a great tour but take care, its not just a klettersteig. There are parts with iron cables but also parts without and not only easy parts. The rock is not hard to climb but there are steep passages. Our second day on the ridge we see helicopters searching. At home we find out that a man fall down to death. That makes clear for me that you just must be careful on this trip and every other climb.
"No matter how big a guy might be, Nicky would take him on. You beat Nicky with fists, he comes back with a bat. You beat him with a knife, he comes back with a gun. And you beat him with a gun, you better kill him, because he’ll keep coming back and back until one of you is dead."