Got super lucky with weather and rapid acclimation. Made it to the summit on our 11th day at a fairly leisurely pace. from the Plaza Argentina side. Came down through Plaza de Mulas...VERY glad we went up the way that we did!
Climbed the False Polish route. Wanted to come down and do the Polish Direct afterwards, but the glacier was solid ice, and we didn't have the gear to do the whole thing in those conditions...a pitch or two, sure...but not the whole thing. Screw it, we were tired anyway!
I think I'll stick to the lower peaks that are more technically challenging where you can make a summit and enjoy a beer on your tailgate at camp that same evening. Much more my style! I already know I can suffer through discomfort, and that was the biggest challenge of this mountain (on this route) for me.
Now I know! Won't do it again, but wouldn't trade it for the world!
Fairly pleasant trek via the Normal route. 12 days alltogether. Great weather and clear skies except at the summit. Sadly.
Left my tent from Nido de Condores at 3 a.m. and reached the summit at 11:30 a.m., my 11th day on the mountain. 14 days total on the mountain including the laid back descent. Climbed solo and unsupported, but used mules to basecamp. Low winds on summit day, the day right after a big storm passed through.
My detailed trip report is here: https://thecloudocean.com/2015/03/08/aconcagua-trip-report/
Photographs are here: https://thecloudocean.com/2015/03/13/aconcagua-photographs-february-2015/
After pre-acclimating on Volcan San Jose in Chile reached the summit in a single push from Plaza Argentina without load yo-yo to use a good weather window. We had the summit for ourselves for 1.5 hours in perfect windless condition. Our plan had been for Polish Glacier but we changed that and stuck to normal trail due to blank ice conditions and turned it into the "360 traverse". Descent via Plaza Mulas. The entire trip took 11 days including a rest day at Plaza Argentina (mandatory for medical check) and one at 5500m (Jan 8 - Jan 18).
14 days in total via false polish route...
Attempted. Will try again.
Attempted to climb Aconcagua late in season, but a freak snowstorm which dumped over a meter of snow, making carrying to high camps difficult, followed by a windstorm that lasted longer than expected combined with worsening cough and altitude sickness made me turn back. Next time I will go during the Christmas holidays!
Great weather most of the way for our two-man team. The summit was cloudless and windless and had incredible views. Got to the summit on Day 11 and spent a total of 14 days on the mountain.
After spending a couple weeks acclimatizing on other peaks we were prepared for a relatively quick climb of Aconcagua. We reached high camp (White Rocks) in 4 days from the Horcones trailhead. Our forecasted clear, calm day leading into a good summit day, turned into about a foot and a half of new snow from 3 pm to midnight. After digging our way out of our tents the next day, we made the long snowy hike back down to base camp. There were no less than 80 tents at high camp that day, with everyone shooting for the same good weather window. That morning we only saw one group of 4 brave the new snow and impending storm, and head towards the top.
Number 4, up the False Polish. Beautiful summit day, great expedition!
No success on the mountain this time other than having adventures keeping the camp sites intact in the high winds. Hunkered down at camp one holding the tent up from the inside for 12 hours straight. Some rest day. Two attempts at moving to camp 2 prevented by 100k per hour plus winds at Armeghino col. Returned to base camp to find it mostly destroyed with people heading home who no longer had tents. Most were destroyed in the storm we waited out at Camp 1. So it seems we were lucky after all.
Up on Guanacos (had the whole mountain to ourselves except for one AAI group), down on normal route
Had some major winds at our Camp 2 (Nido) that collapsed and broke our tent; forced us down to wait it out at basecamp. Went for it all after a day wait, summit from Nido. Very windy throughout the trip, luckily caught a break for the big day 13 days in. Out on day 15, great trip!
Another Aconcagua summit, #3 for me and another very successful trip with 100% of our group (10 folks total) on top. Crystal clear skies, light wind and stunning views all around.
Second summit for me on a beautiful day, 100% success for our group of 12. Only group on top when we arrived!
had to wait at nido condores for a better wind forecast... in the end we were lucky and had a great summit day with mild wind and good visibility...
Forced back down off of the mountain by extreemly high winds. Base camp ravaged by winds. Worst wind conditions I have faced in the 25 years I have been coming to Argentina. Better luck next time I guess. Regards William
Summited around 3:30pm New Year's Day. Cloudy as heck, and a brilliant snowstorm down to High Camp.
Summit from C2 via Polish Traverse. Great weather!!
Attempted the Polish Glacier Route, but traversed to the Normal Route due to bad weather. Very cold with high winds. Summitted from Berlin with Dan Leeth, Melvin Downing, Rob Wells and guide Peter Getzels on 2/17/83. Although successful, summit day the toughest single day I have ever experienced.