Adamello from Val di Genova across Mandrone glacier

Adamello from Val di Genova across Mandrone glacier

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.15540°N / 10.49660°E
Additional Information Route Type: Glacier climb
Additional Information Time Required: One to two days
Additional Information Difficulty: Glacier, I UIAA to reach the top
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Adamello from Val di Genova across Mandrone Glacier

 

Monte Adamello 3539 m is the highest peak and the most important of the namesake group, the Adamello Group, located beetween Lombardia and Trentino countries. Adamello is situated between M. Falcone and Passo dell'Adamello and has a fairly simple topography, drawn by the two main watershed ridges, the ENE ridge and the SO ridge, and from the NW spur.  the two great North and West walls give the mountain a majestic and harsh appearance, while the South East side is much more gentle, rising like a modest dome from the frozen plains of Pian di Neve. Along this side, with departure from the Val di Genova on the Trentino side of the chain, it developes  the Normal route that we will describe later.  

The peak of Monte Adamello.
The top of Monte Adamello seen from the route
Pian di Neve in June 2004.
The wide plateau of Pian di Neve

Getting there

The starting point to approach the huts is Val di Genova.

From Carisolo (TN) follow the road of the Val Genova and, upon reservation at the shelter, park in the parking area of Malga Bedole. In summer from 9.45 to 18.00 the stretch of road: Ponte Maria - Malga Bedole is forbidden to car traffic and there is a shuttle bus service that runs every 30 minutes. In this case park in the large parking area of Ponte Maria (1164 m), 8.5 km from Carisolo, near Malga Genova and reach the departure by shuttle bus.

It is also possible to start the climb from Rifugio ai Caduti dell’Adamello alla Lobbia.  From Rifugio Collini in Val di Genova with a steep trail we can reach Rifugio Città di Trento The route is marked in RED COLOUR on the overview map.

The routes to the Monte...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Route Description

Adamello ENE ridge   

Difficulty: Alpine F 

This route is considered the Normal route for the alpinists starting from Rif. Città di Trento and Rif. Lobbia, the Normal Route from Trentino, usually rather crowded.  The itinerary largely coincides with the itinerary of the first climbers of Monte Adamello and in the upper part near the eastern side of the Corno Bianco it joins the route coming from the Lombardia side.

 

The Mandrone glacier effluence.
The Mandrone glacier
The route for Monte Adamello...
The route to Monte Adamello

 

Route report

From the parking lot of Malga Bedole the road soon leads to the Rifugio Bedole 1641 m. From here, following the signs, take the well-marked path that rising to the North trail n. 212 with numerous hairpins a steep wooded slope. After about half an hour you will cross the stream that descends from Val Ronchina to the right. Continue through the wood which becomes more and more sparse, gradually turning towards W. The path crosses the creek, this time towards West, and little further on reachs the junction with the Migotti path which goes up to the Val Cèrcen. After ignoring this path, continue on the left, on the beautiful trail that leads, with a very scenic itinerary, to the ruins of the Capanna Lipsia and a little further on to the Rifugio Città di Trento al Mandròn (2449 m). From the Rifugio Città di Trento traverse till the Mandrone glacier and follow till Pian di Neve doing a wide turn in the South-West direction arriving to the final pyramid that we can climb across the North-East or South ridge.

(Route also possible by skimountaineering; in this case it is also possible start the trip from Passo del Tonale, Presena Glacier skiresort).

 

 

Final part of the route (common to other routes) on Pian di Neve glacier

At the end of the climb, from 3100 m a.s.l. about to the top, the route is common to the route that comes from Rifugio Lobbia and to that coming from Val Salarno. The Pian di Neve is an unicum in the Italian Alps. Be careful to hide crevasses!!!

 

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice-axe, rope.

 

Red Tape

Logo of Parco Naturale Adamello - Brenta

 

No fees no permits needed and no particular restriction in climbing and hiking. Adamello is located within Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena.  Pay attention to the accessibility of Val di Genova road  (usually closed to private cars from 9 to 18).

 

 

Huts

 

Rifugio Città di Trento al...
Rifugio Città di Trento

 

 

 

 

- Rifugio Città di Trento al Mandrone  - Approach  from Rifugio Collini al Bedole (trailhead) in Val di Genova. The road to Val di Genova starts from Carisolo.

Rifugio Lobbia ai Caduti...
Rifugio Lobbia ai Caduti dell'Adamello

- Rifugio Lobbia ai Caduti dell’Adamello -  Approaches:  A) From Val di Fumo, Rifugio Val di Fumo and Lobbia glacier. B) From Val di Genova, Rifugio Città di Trento al Mandrone across the Mandrone glacier. C) From Rifugio Collini al Bedole (trailhead road Val di Genova) directly through the Lobbia Valley.

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO  

 Guidebooks and maps

Adamello Guidebook

- Guidebooks 

"Adamello Vol. I - Pericle Sacchi Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

-Maps

"Adamello - Presanella" - Tabacco scala 1:25000 

"Adamello, Val di Fumo, Val di Genova" - Kompass n. 638 

"Adamello - Presanella" - 4LAND Alpine Cartography n. 138 1:25.000



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

AdamelloRoutes