Agent Orange

Page Type
Route
Location:
Telemark/Nissedal, Norway, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
V- Norwegian, V UIAA
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
9

Route Quality: 2 Votes

402 Hits
83.1% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Agent Orange
Created On: Nov 30, 2017
Last Edited On: Feb 25, 2018

Overview


Agent Orange (Hægefjell)


The well known Telemark region in the Central Southern Norway is home of a good number of fine granite dômes, located in the Nissedal and Fyresdal municipalities, near Norway's sixth largest lake, Nisservatn. These dômes offer several great climbing on multipitches routes running on perfect granite resembing the Toulomne Meadows, near Yosemite. 

Hægefjell seen from the access road
Hægefjell seen from the access road

The two most popular venues are Hægefjell and Baremlandsfjellet, both in the Nissedal area, and in particular the rocky jewel of Hægefjell is quite the highlight. It shows high, vaste and slabby walls South, South-East and East oriented, cut by several cracks and divided into various climbing sectors.

Agent Orange, detail of the starting pitch - Hægefjell
Agent Orange, detail of the starting pitch
Nisservatn seen from Hægefjell fore-summit
Nisservatn seen from Hægefjell fore-summit











The more gentle SE and E slabs, located on the right if seen from the parking lot, are home of some accessible and less demanding routes, among these there's a couple of magnificent climbing, Lara and Agent Orange, the route that is the object of this page.

Getting There

Hægefjell is located on the western shore of the Nisservatn,  meaning Elf Lake,  at its Northwestern edge, There is no direct road-access toHægefjell from the North, so you must approach it from the South. On the Southern end of the lake it's situated the small town of Treungen. This is the landmark to approach Hægefjell,  a mandatory passage whether you come from the South or from the North, unless you want to take the small ferry connecting the two shores of the lake.

Haegefjell and Nisservatn
Haegefjell and Nisservatn


Coming from the North you will drive on the highway 41 which skirts the Eastern shore of Nisservatn and gives access to the village of Treungen.  From Treungen drive in the direction of the Western shore of the lake.  Once on the western shore follow the road running along the lake, passing some groups of houses and the small village of Fjone. The road continues to skirt the lake, reaching the Y junction. Take the left branch. Soon the road rises as it follows a stream past several beautiful farms, and quickly changes to dirt.      

Signpost at the Y crossroads along the acces to Hægefjell
Signpost at the Y crossroads along the access
Honesty box on the way to Hægefjell
Honesty box on the way to Hægefjell













Follow this road for about 13 kilometers, pay the toll at the honesty box (70 NOK) and continue with the beautiful dôme already well visible, just in front, until the road ends at a parking lot. Hægefjell is just there!

Route Description

Agent Orange report - Norwegian scale

Summit altitude: 1021 m
Difficulty: V- Norwegian scale, V UIAA
Climbing length: 400 m
Equipment: various bolts along the pitches, equipped belays. Pitches only with bolts: 1,2,7,8 - Mixed pitches: 3,4 - Pitches with natural protection: 5,6
Exposure: SE
First ascent: Jan Petter Brenfelt, September 2000

Hægefjell seen from the summit of Lindefjell
Hægefjell seen from the summit of Lindefjell
The  mighty SE wall of Hægefjell
The mighty SE wall of Hægefjell as seen from the car park












A superb climb on excellent granite, pleasant and fun, with fixed equipment to be integrated. Setting of great beauty. Agent Orange is located in the right sector of the wall, 50 meters to the left of Sternsuppen and to the right of Tyrion.

Agent Orange second pitch,  Hægefjell
Agent Orange second pitch
A sea of slabs, Agent Orange
A sea of slabs...












Approach -The dôme is just in front and close to the parking lot. From the parking lot cross the concrete bridge and take a well-worn path, follow the right branch leading to the Hægefjell right sectors. The path reachs a greenish slab crossed by a black stripe. The start of the route is here (name "Agent Orange" partially cleared on the wall). 15 min. from the parking lot.

Route report

L1 - Climb the slab along the black strip, 4, 55 m
L2 - Easy slab at the beginning, then smooth at the end of the pitch, 4+, 50 m
L3 - Some little walls lead to the beautiful dihedral-crack slanting left. Climb it off-width, exit to the left to a belay between two blades, 5-, 60 m

Agent Orange fourth pitch, Hægefjell
Agent Orange fourth pitch
Hægefjell, Agent Orange slanting corner
The slanting corner












L4 - Just above the stance climb up the wall, heading to a small overhang originating a crack. Climb the crack, then a slab and thin cracks to a stance below a smooth slab, 3+, 35 m
L5 - Climb the slab, skirt an outcrop and take a crack. Climb the crack and continue along a succession of dihedrals and thin cracks. With a short left traverse reach the comfortable stance, 3+, 55 m
L6 - Reach another crack, climb it, pass a small pine and continue on thin cracks to the belay, 3+, 55 m
L7 - Small walls and thin cracks, then easy spur. Follow the spur towards left to a stance in the midst of greenish slabs, 4, 60 m
L8 - Climb the greenish slabs and after a final steep but short wall reach a rocky basin in the midst of the slabs, 4, 60 m

Hægefjell, the summit slabs
The summit slabs


From here it is possible abseiling down the route or, absolutely recommended, to reach the beautiful summit of the dome scrambling up easy slabs, A last slope lead to the summit.  Big cairn and summit book.

Hægefjell, the summit-log
Summit-log
Haegefjell summit cairn
Haegefjell summit cairn















Descent - The starting point of the descent route is a bit tricky to find, but once you begins to walk on an easy ridge heading North the track flows into a marked path inside the wood, then joining a dirt road, running below the South wall and getting the parking lot after about 1 hour from the top.

Summit of Hægefjell, the start of the descent route
The start of the descent route
Scenery below the S wall along Hægefjell descent route
Scenery below the S wall along the descent route

Essential Gear

Ropes 2x60, harness, helmet, 10 quickdraws, friends 0,5-3,5, nuts 2-7

Main rock climbing scales

See below a helpful conversion diagram:

Rock Climbing Rating Systems


Red Tape

No particulary restrictions. A toll to pay in the box at the start of the road is due.

Where to stay

The closest accomodation is: Nisser Hyttegrend and Camping. Alternatively there are organized campsites all around the lake, in Treungen and on the eastern shore, besides cabins and room to rent all around the lake.

When to Climb

The best season goes from the end of May to the end of August

Meteo

Treungen Meteo Forecast

Guidebooks and maps

 

Telemark climbing guidebook

 

 

Hægefjell map, Nissedal

 

"Gå Telemark" - Klettern in Sudnorwegen by Gotz Wiechmann (in Norwegian and German)

Click here to obtain the topo of this route and various others on Hægefjell: Klatreforer Nissedal (in Norwegian)

There is also a Rockfax mini-guide: Nissedal (in English)

External Links

Klatreforer Nissedal








Agent Orange

Route
25 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Norway

Parents

HægefjellRoutes