Arête des Cosmiques with John Lee
Took the tram, then elevator, after skiing at Les Grands Montets. I don't really even know why I'm checking in here. Views were incredible - so were the crowds.
Less than 2 months later the route was super dry and we did it all in boots.
A lucky day of good weather and an unexpected climb as we were climbing some thing else the day before but did not catch the last cable car. Fun traverse.
Been on it three times from Cosmiques, what a view. Alpine tradition everytime I'm there!
Great day with Steve on the classic route V/V+
Great day on the cosmique ridge.
Did in conjunction with Pointes Lachenal. This was great, but a little harder than I had been led to believe. Some very exposed moves on skethcy snow with no handholds.
Did Arête des Cosmiques twice and Voie Rebuffat on the South face once.
A classic training ground. Climbed it many times by different routes of which the Rebuffat five times, once with Jean Afanassieff, abseiling from the top and getting up in one hour! Another time, in 1964, I was caught in a huge storm, transforming the route in less than one hour in a snow climb on the 75/80° slabs. We nearly froze to death as we only had shirts but got out on own own.
Nice view from here and beautiful weather conditions at the time.
Frendo Spur in 1985 and Rebuffat in 1982
...we went up to the Aiguille du Midi and took the cable car down to the Pointe Hellbronner. I liked the snow arete very much. Would like to come back one day and climb via the Frendo Spur.
We climbed in in foggy weather. Not too difficult, but nice climbing!
Since the first time in 1978 I have been up the magnificent cableway many times. However in 1989 I guided a work colleague round the 'trois monts' traverse of Mont Blanc, going in the opposite direction to most - so we finished on the Aig du Midi - so I count that as having climbed it!
A bivvy near the midway station and a 3am start ensured we were first on the route, with the best conditions possible. Very mild overnight so snow still quite soft with several large avalanches throughout the morning. Summited approx midday.
The first one - 19/07/2011
Started in the early afternoon, during the blizzard: no footsteps, no other teams on the route, it was like going into nowhere, actually. Have lost much time on routefinding. After several hours, we arrived in front of the crux slab (4c), full covered with ice and snow. The time is the killer - it was too late to continue. We decided to retreat by Cosmiques couloir.
The second one - 22/07/2011
Perfect weather. We climbed up by the Cosmiques couloir again, and have continued the ridge right 'till the end.
Beautiful! Classic one. Not to underappreciate.
Climbed with Igi and Pawel.
Photo gallery - here.
via the Arête des Cosmiques, great scamble
Maybe next time.