Page Type:
|
Mountain/Rock |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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22.69299°S / 45.7261°W |
County:
|
Sao Bento do Sapucai |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall |
Season:
|
Winter |
|
Elevation:
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5774 ft / 1760 m |
|
Overview
Bauzinho is the leftmost mountain.
Its rock is gneiss and climbing is mostly technical face with crimps and some slab, sometimes offering ragged cracks. It's summit can also be reached by trail. The face is 200 m high from the lowest point on the north face to its summit.
The mountain has dozens of routes – sport, trad and aid, and is considered an intermediate to advanced mountain for rock climbers. Many of the routes requires pros and the ones that are entirely protected with fixed gear are usually delicate slab climbs not recommended for the beginner climber. The south face is known for its holdless, exposed and demanding trad lines.
Getting There
By carComing from Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro access is by Via Dutra (up to Taubaté), SP-123 (up to 046-SP) and SP-173.
By bus
The carrier Pássaro Marrom has two daily buses that serve the town of Sao Bento do Sapucai, the line is Sao Paulo-Brasopolis (Passaro Marrom). By January 2014 tickets are around R$ 41 (US$ 17) one way.
Reaching the base of the routes
There are three ways to reach base of the routes. You can park your car in the Bau parking lot and descend the regular trail to the south face or Fausto trail (very exposed!) to reach the routes on the south face. The north face can also be reached via the trail that starts at the Bau restaurant, but it takes much longer.
Routes
North face - Trad- Normal do Bauzinho
1 pitch mostly 3rd class scramble, can be reached by rappelling from the summit, crowded with beginners on most days of good weather
- Fissura Corneto
5.9, acess via the Col, bring pros - Neuronios Fritos
5.9 with 5.11 crux, A3, 5 pitches, this is a big wall classic and usually requires a bivouac on the wall. Bring nuts, friends, TCUs, pitons and cliffs - Malacrida
5.10, A1, 6 pitches, bring two complete sets of friends and two 60m ropes - Dança da Chuva
5.10, 3 pitches, bring pros. This route is can be accessed at the second belay station of V de Vingança
- V de Vingança
5.8 with a 5.10 crux, 6 pitches, this is one of the classics of Bauzinho, and can be reached by walking around the north face. It starts with a long dihedral. - Homem Pássaro
5.10, 5 pitches, bring friends - Galba Athaide
5.8 with 5.9 smearing crux, 4 pitches. This is the easiest multi pitch route on the north face but with a nasty and exposed smearing crux
South Face - Trad
- Paredão Tudo Bem
5.10, 3 pitches, bring pros, rapel only possible from the first belay station - Fissura Chove e Nao Molha
5.12, 2 pitches, bring pros - Easy Lover
5.10 with 5.11 crux, 2 pitches, accessed by the south side trail, bring pros - Insanity
A3 crack, bring nuts, friends, micro friends, cliffs and copperheads, the anchor station is fixed for rapping
South Face - Sport
- Pede pra sair, 5.13c
- Qualquer um menos eu, 5.13b
- Super Man, 5.13a, bring friends to build a belay station on the summit
- Selivie, 5.12a
Where to stay
Because approaches are so short, nobody camps in the area, aside from most if not all the area surrounding being private property.
There are several inns in the town, and a few climber's huts as well.
The most well known is Montanhismus, owned and operated by renowned brazilian big wall climber Eliseu Frechou. There's also a small store in site with discount, blems and closeout apparel and equipment.
Another option is Nativus, owned by local climber Marcelo Iron who can give beta on several routes and crags in the area.