Black Dike

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.16000°N / 71.7°W
Additional Information Route Type: multi pitch ice climb
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: WI4 to 5-
Sign the Climber's Log


park either at Profile Lake or Boise Rock on Route 93; walk south from the former and straight west from the latter into the woods. You should be able to see the Dike from the road. An approach trail branches off from the main base trail right across from Boise Rock. Follow it up until you reach the open talus slope, then trend left following cairns if possible until you reach the base of the Dike. Begin on the left side near the rock wall on a shelf of snow just below the first ice bulges.

Route Description

The first pitch is really, really long. In fact it is longer than a 60 mtere rope, but luckily not by much. Therefore, when the leader runs out of rope the belayer should simply move up until there's enough rope; usually this will only be a few meters. The pitch is technically not difficult (grade 2 except one short section that's grade 3) and goes along the wall, then slightly right after the crux (a 15-20 foot section of 70-80 degree ice in a small chimney), over small bulges with frequent rests. Early in the season the ice can be pretty thin so be careful. Belay at a fixed anchor on a small ledge at the base of a rock wall.

the beginning of the second pitch is usually the crux, technically and psychologically. You need to step left on small footholds off the ledge for a few meters until you reach the main inside corner, where you're back on ice. From here, 30 feet or so of pretty much vertical ice to a small rest; then easier climbing for the remainder of the pitch with rests and stemming possible. Belay at a two bolt anchor in the rock wall on the left, at a small snow shelf.

The third and last pitch is not excessively hard if the easiest variation is followed, but very hard if the harder (the rock exit) is taken. It also can vary a lot with conditions.

The route can either be rappelled (don't do this if there are parties below) or descended by hiking down a trail.

Essential Gear

all the ice gear (two tools, crampons, helmet and so on) and a good sized ice rack supplemented by some small rock pieces. A 60 meter rope is very strongly reccommended.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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