Campanile Basso di Brenta 2877 m is a spire rising vertically towards the sky between the Brenta Alta and the Campanile Alto in the Sfulmini chain, Brenta Dolomites. It's the most famous spire of the Brenta group and even of the whole Dolomites. Not only! The Campanile Basso in reason of its particularly soaring and daring shape is considered as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. It has a very smart structure: a slender cilindric pinnacle with a big shoulder on its West side. Combining a route to the shoulder with a route to the higher part you can climb for over 500 m drop.
Formerly known (only by Germans) as the Guglia di Brenta, it was first climbed in the year 1899 by two students from Innsbruck, Otto Ampferer and Karl Berger. Due to its beauty and the surrounding environment the Campanile Basso is a mountain that fascinates and still attracts many climbers to over a century from the first ascent.
There are no easy routes, even the Normal Route which follows the itinerary of the first summiters involves a climb up to the IV degree UIAA. Also the descent requires a good skill as you have to do a series of not easy abseils.
The main valley bases for the Brenta Dolomites are Madonna di Campiglio to the north west and, less convenient because much lower, Molveno to the east. for all climbs the starting point are Rifugio Brentei (2182m), Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m) or Rifugio Alimonta (2580m) you can get them starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m) : by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m), then on foot (path 317) to Rif. Casinei and path 318 in 2 h walk from Vallesinella you get the Rif.Brentei - in 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta you can get the Rif.Pedrotti or - in 1 more hour, you can get the Rif: Alimonta You can find all info about Refuges at : Rifugi (multilingual)
Campanile Basso Normal route (UIAA scale)
Summit altitude: 2877 m
Climbing length: 270 m
Equipment: equipped belays, pegs along the pitches
Starting point: Rifugio Brentei - Rifugio Pedrotti
Approach - From the Refuge Brentei take the path towards the Bocca di Brenta, passing in the upper part some rock outcrops aided by some iron ropes and some snowfields at the beginning of the season. Before reaching the Bocca di Brenta turn to left and go up to take the Via Ferrata delle Bocchette Centrali. Follow it up to the Bocchetta del Campanile Basso, where you leave the Sentiero delle Bocchette descending a few meters down to the left, then climb up on some steps to the base of the South-East wall, looking for the easiest passages up to a debris shelf where you will find the first equipped belay on the via Normale (anchors).
13 pitches. Climb a chimney (III) and the Pooli Wall (IV) trending right all the time. Eventually reach the South East Arete and continue up and right across the East Face to the foot of a chimney on the left. Climb this (III) to reach the 'Stradone Provinciale', a large ledge which runs right across the North Face. Walk along this to the right to the West Shoulder. Climb the obvious chimney/crack system for 60m (III) to a ledge. Trend left for another 12m to the 'Terrazzino Gabari' and climb to a pulpit on the North West Arete. Make an 8m traverse to the left to the foot of the 'Ampferer Wall' on the North Face. Clmb this wall to the summit (IV).
Full rack and two 50m ropes. There are pegs in place on the most difficult sections and belays are equipped with ring bolts (also used for abseiling).
No permits no fees required. Campanile Basso is part of Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena. Follow the "leave no trace" approach. The whole Brenta Dolomites area had been acknowledged inside the Unesco World Heritage and deserves the best care and respect. More info on SP about "Dolomites Unesco World Heritage" here:
Camping is available in S. Antonio di Mavignola (Campeggio Faè, +39-0465-507178). Place for motorhomes and campers near the cable-car starting point in Campo Carlo Magno. Unauthorized camping and wild camping are not normally allowed ... but near the Brentei none will tell you anything if you place a tent to spend the night; the refuge is much more comfortable and not expensive, but often full.
The best period is the summer season
"Dolomiti di Brenta" - Gino Buscaini - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI