Campanile Basso Normal Route

Campanile Basso Normal Route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.16380°N / 10.89280°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: IV
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

 

Campanile Basso di Brenta Normal Route

 

Cima Brenta Alta (2960m),... Brenta Alta and Campanile Basso

 

 

Campanile Basso di Brenta 2877 m is a spire rising vertically towards the sky between the Brenta Alta and the Campanile Alto in the Sfulmini chain, Brenta Dolomites.  It's the most famous spire of the Brenta group and even of the whole Dolomites. Not only! The Campanile Basso in reason of its particularly soaring and daring shape is considered as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. It has a very smart structure: a slender cilindric pinnacle with a big shoulder on its West side. Combining a route to the shoulder with a route to the higher part you can climb for over 500 m drop.

Formerly known (only by Germans) as the Guglia di Brenta, it was first climbed in the year 1899 by two  students from Innsbruck, Otto Ampferer and Karl Berger. Due to its beauty and the surrounding environment the Campanile Basso is a mountain that fascinates and still attracts many climbers to over a century from the first ascent.

Basso? Not really!
Basso? Not really!

There are no easy routes, even the Normal Route which follows the itinerary of the first summiters involves a climb up to the IV degree UIAA. Also the descent requires a good skill as you have to do a series of not easy abseils.

History

 
Great mountaineers of the past worked on these vertical walls to conquer the summit of Campanile Basso. The Trentino Carlo Garbari was the first to identify a logical route of ascent. On 12 August 1897 he attempted the climb with the bearer Nino Pooli and the guide Antonio Tavernaro. The three people climbed from the Bocchetta del Campanile Basso and overcome the first difficult starting wall,  which still bears the name of "Parete Pooli". Pooli then climbed through chimneys (Y chimneys) to a large ledge that crosses the wall, the "Stradone Provinciale". Here the three climbers reached the Western side and climbed on ribs and chimneys to a terrace (the terrace Garbari) under the overhanging summit wall. Pooli climbed again for a few meters but a very difficult move stopped him at about 20 meters from the summit. Garbari wrote a precise report of that climb,  that ended up in the hands of two young Austrian students: Otto Ampferer and Karl Berger. On August 17, 1899  the two Austrians attempted the climb following the Garbari's report, but under the last wall they also had to desist. The next day (18 August 1899) the two climbers returned to the spire but this time, instead of going up the terrace Garbari, they took to a small pulpit (Terrazzino del Re di Belgio) along the North-West ridge. After a bold traverse in full North wall they managed to win the overhang that characterizes the wall (today called "Parete Ampferer"). Pooli didn't accept the defeat and set off again with Riccardo Trenti to complete his climb. Once reached the terrace Garbari, July 31, 1904, Pooli faced and won the overhanging wall (today called "Parete Pooli-Trenti").

Getting There

The main valley bases for the Brenta Dolomites are Madonna di Campiglio to the north west and, less convenient because much lower, Molveno to the east. for all climbs the starting point are Rifugio Brentei (2182m), Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m) or Rifugio Alimonta (2580m) you can get them starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m) : by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m), then on foot (path 317) to Rif. Casinei and path 318 in 2 h walk from Vallesinella you get the Rif.Brentei - in 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta you can get the Rif.Pedrotti or - in 1 more hour, you can get the Rif: Alimonta You can find all info about Refuges at : Rifugi (multilingual)

Route Description

Campanile Basso Normal route  (UIAA scale)

Summit altitude: 2877 m 

Difficulty: IV

Climbing length: 270 m

Equipment: equipped belays, pegs along the pitches

Starting point: Rifugio Brentei - Rifugio Pedrotti

Approach - From the Refuge Brentei take the path towards the Bocca di Brenta, passing in the upper part some rock outcrops aided by some iron ropes and some snowfields at the beginning of the season. Before reaching the Bocca di Brenta turn to left and go up to take the Via Ferrata delle Bocchette Centrali. Follow it up to the Bocchetta del Campanile Basso, where you leave the Sentiero delle Bocchette descending a few meters down to the left, then climb up on some steps to the base of the South-East wall, looking for the easiest passages up to a debris shelf where you will find the first equipped belay on the via Normale (anchors).

Route report

 

Campanile Basso, Normal Route
Campanile Basso, Normal Route

13 pitches. Climb a chimney (III) and the Pooli Wall (IV) trending right all the time. Eventually reach the South East Arete and continue up and right across the East Face to the foot of a chimney on the left. Climb this (III) to reach the 'Stradone Provinciale', a large ledge which runs right across the North Face. Walk along this to the right to the West Shoulder. Climb the obvious chimney/crack system for 60m (III) to a ledge. Trend left for another 12m to the 'Terrazzino Gabari' and climb to a pulpit on the North West Arete. Make an 8m traverse to the left to the foot of the 'Ampferer Wall' on the North Face. Clmb this wall to the summit (IV).

 

 

 

 

Essential Gear

Full rack and two 50m ropes. There are pegs in place on the most difficult sections and belays are equipped with ring bolts (also used for abseiling).

Red Tape 

No permits no fees required. Campanile Basso is part of Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena. Follow the "leave no trace" approach. The whole Brenta Dolomites area had been acknowledged inside the Unesco World Heritage and deserves the best care and respect. More info on SP about "Dolomites Unesco World Heritage" here:

Dolomites living mountains

Huts

Rifugio Brentei

Rifugio Pedrotti

Rifugio Brentei
Rifugio Brentei
Cima Brenta Bassa (2812) and...
Rifugio Pedrotti and Cima Brenta Bassa

Other accomodation

Camping is available in S. Antonio di Mavignola (Campeggio Faè, +39-0465-507178).  Place for motorhomes and campers near the cable-car starting point in Campo Carlo Magno.  Unauthorized camping and wild camping are not normally allowed ... but near the Brentei none will tell you anything if you place a tent to spend the night; the refuge is much more comfortable and not expensive, but often full. 

When to climb

The best period is the summer season

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO

Guidebooks and maps

Brenta Dolomites guidebook

 

 

"Dolomiti di Brenta" - Gino Buscaini - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

 



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.