Castore/Castor Climber's Log

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missihawk - Jul 24, 2023 3:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2023

WNW from Klein Matterhorn  Sucess!

Climbed it from Klein Matterhorn. Very nice finish with some higher inclination climbing and the nice snow ridge to the top.
The way back the snow was getting way to soft and it took us longer then anticipated.


jck - Aug 16, 2022 1:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2022

Normal  Sucess!

3 hours round trip from Sella Hut. Started early to avoid other parties on the ridge. Bit windy but crystal clear weather.

The summit ridge is really nice.


Falk - May 7, 2020 6:57 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2020

Normal Route  Sucess!

Just a little too crowded, especially on the summit ridge...

Alberto Rampini

Alberto Rampini - Sep 16, 2018 4:38 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1983

Castore  Sucess!

From Quintino Sella hut


boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 6:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008

W-E traverse solo  Sucess!

Traversed it W to E solo.

andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Sep 16, 2016 9:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2016

Nice and scenic  Sucess!

After a good night up in the Matterhorn Lodge at Klein Matterhorn we stepped out on the Breithorn plateau and made our way towards Castor. The snow was rather slushy but improved during the second part of the approach.
The trail up along the SE ridge normal route was in very good condition. After the easy bergschrund it became steeper (45°-50°) where I belayed my partner Åsa from above in two pitches. Some small patches of ice. The summit ridge we climbed with high concentration and then enjoyed the splendid weather from the top. The descent back to the Klein Matterhorn was a long walk as expected.


rob2681 - Sep 2, 2016 7:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2016

Castor Summit  Sucess!

I spent the night at the Gandegghütte. Met the mountain guide and other companion climber in the morning at the Trockner Steg lift. We took the lift to Klein Matterhorn to start our journey.

The travel across the Monte Rosa plateau went good. Our guide told us crampons were not necessary which made the trip a bit faster. The ascent was straightforward until a steep section where we used hand and footholds in the ice with our iaxes to assist through this short section. At the top of this section is a small plateau before the final summit ridge. My companion decided to wait here, I think due to some dizziness. So the mountain guide and I made the last section to the top. It was very narrow and I had to concentrate with each step. The return to Klein Matterhorn was really tiring back over the Monte Rosa plateau.

In spite of the good feeling from summiting, the weekend was tragic in that 3 climbs were killed approaching Castor from the other side in the afternoon. News reports state that a snow cornice gave way. Then 3 more climbers were killed on Pollux (which is close to Castor) when a slip happened. It is thought that the warm temperatures are melting the permafrost and resulting in instability of the snow/rocks.


Lodewijk - Oct 30, 2015 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2015

Ridge to the sky  Sucess!

The ridge to the as awesome as it looks on all the photos here on SP. Climbed with Roeland, Pieter and Werner from the Ayaz hut (after Climbing Pollux first) over the WNW-flank. Crevasses on the WNW-Flank and the last part to reach the summit ridge was quite steep:45-50 degrees. We traversed Castor, passed Felikhorn and went down to the Quintino Sella Hut. Clear blue skies all day and great views, a perfect day.

Rafa Bartolome

Rafa Bartolome - Jul 19, 2015 10:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2015

nice ridge  Sucess!

We enjoyed a lot the ridge of Castor in a perfect day without a cloud... it was an amazing place!!!!!

We begun in rifugio Mezzalama (guide d'ayas was full) reaching the summit in 5h descending to Quintino sella.

The route of west face had changed a lot because we needed to cross 4 crevasses without bridges and some sections over it had 40-45º, specially the last section to reach the summit North with 45-50º (but with a fixed rope and good steps)

viktor vaughn

viktor vaughn - Jan 29, 2015 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009

Italian normal route  Sucess!

Perfect weather the whole week. We ascended the Breithorn, Castor, Pollux, Parrotspitze and Signalkuppe. Slept at the Monta Rosa Hut.


alpinbeta - Sep 20, 2014 9:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2009

Normal Route from Rif. Sella  Sucess!

Clear day and good ice and snow conditions


markhallam - Sep 14, 2014 3:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2014

Climbed with Pollux  Sucess!

With my son Keith, climbed both Pollux and Castor from Rossi e Volante Bivvy Hut. We did furthest away, Castor via WNW Flank - and then did Pollux via SW ridge, 'on the way back'.
All in all, this was a fantastic day out, in near perfect conditions - a real stroke of luck after all the uncertain weather recently.
Castor W flank a bit of a slog - and quite cold in the morning out of the sun (we made it minus 10 C with a 40km/hour wind to cool things further). But the summit ridge was a total delight - really airy - and with sensational views all round.


Donno - Sep 6, 2014 8:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2014

WNW Flank  Sucess!

Traversed from Klein Matterhorn w/Scott, descending to Quintino Sella Hut. Waited out a storm day then climbed Liskamm.


Simnel - Aug 12, 2014 11:46 am

Traverse..  Sucess!

With Steve, Rog and Andy.


p-mike - Sep 19, 2013 6:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013

Normal Route from Quintino Sella Hut  Sucess!

Normal Route from Quintino Sella Hut on a perfect sunny day!
With my father Beppe, my brother Marco and our friends Dario, Bruno and Massimo.


Jurgen - Jul 29, 2013 8:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2013

Castor from Kl. Matterhorn  Sucess!

Nice day trip from the Kl Matterhorn. Afterwords we climbed the Pollux. Great conditions and beautiful views.


KoenVl - Jul 9, 2013 5:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2013

From Testa Grigia  Sucess!

Started at Testa Grigia. A rather long (18-19km in total), but very beautiful climb, specially at the end with stunning views from a superb snowridge towards the summit!


JoaoNeves - Sep 17, 2012 4:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2012

From valle d'Ayas hut  Sucess!

I summit the Castor together with my good friend Pol, carrying a 20Kg++ load worth of baackpacking... crazy stuff!

But it was just great! probably one of the most spectacular thing I've done in my life... so far.

Silvia Mazzani

Silvia Mazzani - Sep 2, 2012 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1983

Normal Route  Sucess!

From Quintino Sella Hut.


RyanHoover - Aug 28, 2012 1:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2012

Castor Traverse  Sucess!

Fun climb, beautiful views, and less crowded then it's neighbor Pollux.

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