Chardonnet (Aiguille du) Climber's Log

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Schaps

Schaps - Dec 29, 2015 5:36 am

north east spur  Sucess!

Easy

Cissa

Cissa - Nov 18, 2015 8:52 am Date Climbed: Nov 17, 2015

Goulotte Escarra  Sucess!

Fun climb, not too hard, but super cold and windy. Tricky glacier at this time of the year.

andysky - Jul 12, 2014 5:13 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2014

Aureille-Feutren Gully (III, 4+)  Sucess!

Nice climb in reasonable condition. Safe ice climbing in summer is apparently getting harder to come by in the valley thus this is a great proposition for a day or two away from crowds.

See my trip report for details.

http://www.summitpost.org/aiguille-du-chardonnet-aureille-feutren-gully-iii-4/904456

ericvola - Oct 31, 2013 12:46 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 1972

Forbes ridge   Sucess!

Climbed with Andrej Mroz early in the season. The nicest ridge climb of this grade in the Mont Blanc range.

Bas Visscher

Bas Visscher - Jun 16, 2010 6:21 pm

Couloir Bettembourg  Sucess!

Another route on the North Face. Couloir Bettembourg, hard 75 degrees waterice, tiring but beautiful climb.

JanG

JanG - Jul 13, 2009 6:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009

The Forbes arete, a fantastic experience  Sucess!

This is definitely a memorable route, very long & challenging. I succeeded in the company of my son Christoph. Each of us had a local guide to facilitate the tricky ice climbs & getting over the rock towers. We started from Albert 1er hut at 2AM and reached the summit about 9 hours later, exhausted & exhilarated by the dramatic views along the way. The sheer drops from the steep icy snow paths connecting the many rock towers were constant reminders of potential grave consequences of any mistakes!

The summit ridge was mostly in the midst of clouds during the day but we had a clear sky and almost full moon during the night so that we could turn off the headlamps! A highly recommended climb.

Gripped

Gripped - Jun 21, 2009 5:33 am

Good fun  Sucess!

A lovely peak

skileraar

skileraar - Sep 7, 2008 7:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007

Route climbed: Migot Spur

Nice little route up the spur. Some mixed climbing, mostly snow/ice. We climbed the right veriant, wich has the steeper gullies (+/- 80 degrees). Nice sunny weather but crappy snowconditions.
We saw skitracks on the ridge of the Argentiere of an Italian guy who fell to his death the day before.
Partners: Jeroen Vels and Jurgen Mesman

Hoezo laf, papsje?

Bas Visscher

Bas Visscher - Aug 23, 2008 10:29 am

migot spur  Sucess!

Really a beautiful mixed climb. Striking line with some very nice pitches in ice and mixed ground.

Jeroen Vels

Jeroen Vels - Sep 16, 2007 11:36 am

Re: Route climbed: Migot Spur

Daslafzegmenneke ;-)

Jeroen Vels

Jeroen Vels - Aug 31, 2007 8:15 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007

Route climbed: Migot Spur  Sucess!

Nice little route up the spur. Some mixed climbing, mostly snow/ice. We climbed the right veriant, wich has the steeper gullies (+/- 80 degrees). Nice sunny weather but crappy snowconditions.
We saw skitracks on the ridge of the Argentiere of an Italian guy who fell to his death the day before.
Partners: Wouter van Dijk and Jurgen Mesman

roadmountain

roadmountain - Oct 20, 2006 9:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2006

Route Climbed: North-Spur/Migot  Sucess!

A beautifull route with great mixed climbing. The first part is the most difficult. The descent isn't difficult when you find the descent-schlinges. We had the luck that there was a French guide in front off us.

kabernicola

kabernicola - Feb 3, 2006 2:52 pm

Route Climbed: Goulotte Escarra III-4 80º Date Climbed: July 24th 1999  Sucess!

Fantastic route, good conditions. Climbed with Bolo and Legañoso, We descended by the west ridge, where we had to rapell twice. Then to cross the rimaye down was really difficult.

geoffmoss

geoffmoss - Dec 20, 2005 9:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1994

Route Climbed: Forbes Arete Date Climbed: Summer 1994  Sucess!

Although I began by enjoying this great mountaineering route, my partner and I got struck by lightning just below the summit.

Immediately after the strike we were both unconscious and completely paralysed. We regained consciousness and the paralysis eased but we were left burned and without proper feeling in our limbs. It was a frightening struggle trying to get down in the storm .

Unsurprisingly the experience is one I'll never forget and moved me to put a full account of our climb on the web. You can read this account at http://www.geoffmoss.co.uk/.

Charles

Charles - Nov 28, 2005 9:03 am

Route Climbed: Forbes Arrete Date Climbed: August 1987  Sucess!

Great route, lots of interest!

Paddyrock

Paddyrock - Aug 7, 2005 4:13 pm

Route Climbed: north spur Date Climbed: july 2005  Sucess!

great climb good conditions. got lost on the decent storm came in early. got off the sw ridge to early ended up taking us 8hours to decend. in a full blown storm

-what ever temps. nearly died 2 or 3 times buddy got frost bite got a chopper back to the valley. great day out. haha

Cautious

Cautious - Jun 23, 2005 10:06 am

Route Climbed: Forbes Arete Date Climbed: Aug 92, Aug 2001  Sucess!

Lovely mountain, varied and interesting climbing. Can be overcrowded.

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Jun 12, 2005 11:00 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge (Arete Forbes) Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed with Philippe Gerschel, starting from the Albert 1er hut at 2:30AM. The approach and climb up to the "Bosse" were straightforward, but with deep snow under a frozen crust on the face, which made for tiring work. We reached the ridge proper at around 6:30AM. There was a fair bit of snow on the ridge which made things tricky. One short 10m traverse on steep ice was the crux of the route. The descent was very straightforward, with a track to follow and excellent snow conditions. Back to the hut at 1:30PM. Excellent route.

cherokee

cherokee - Jun 2, 2004 2:06 pm

Route Climbed: North Spur Date Climbed: July 25, 1977  Sucess!

This is a nice route to practice your ice climbing, or take someone up that needs the experience. An easy route with no danger or difficulties.

kullaberg

kullaberg - Nov 27, 2002 8:26 pm

Route Climbed: north arete Date Climbed: december 1987  Sucess!

excellent mixed route of moderate difficulty. read the descent description carefully, it's tricky.

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