Chouinard Gully WI3

Page Type
New York, United States, North America
Route Type:
Ice Climbing
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Chouinard  Gully WI3
Created On: Aug 17, 2007
Last Edited On: Jan 7, 2010


Chouinard Gully is one of the historic ice routes in the Adirondack.
In 1969, Yvon Chouinard visited the Daks with a set of
his revolutionary short, droop-picked tools and stiff crampons, and
frontpointed up the first ascent of Chouinard’s Gully at Chapel
Pond. Until then, climbers in the Northeast had cut steps up the ice
they ascended; and as them did the rest of the world...
Chouinard Gully, being eternally shaded, forms early in the season and last long into the spring.

Getting There

3.3 miles north of Malfunction Junction, Route 73 crest a hill and enters the Chapel Pond climbing region. Pull over at the Chapel Pond parking lot, and step out onto the lake. The widest flow above the left end of the pond is Chouinard Gully. Cross the iced lake and after a short snow and ice ramp, you will be at the base of the climb.

Route Description

The climb is generally done in three four or even two pitches, depending on rope length and belay strategy. I climbed it in two pitches, but I suggest to brake it in 3.
Falling ice from climbers above is an ever-present danger as the climb tend to funnel debris.
Descent: Rappel the left side of the route from trees or walk off to the south from the top(crossing the potentially dangerous "Dogleg" Gully),Eventually reaching the Gully to the right of Chapel Pond Slab and angling down toward the Pond below the other ice climb, "Crystal Ice Tower".

Essential Gear

-2 Technical Ice tools
-6/8 mid size (13-16 cm) ice screws (if conditions are thin bring stubbies)
-2 double ropes
-2 Cordelettes

External Links

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Chouinard Gully WI3

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