Positive Thinking WI5

Page Type
Route
Location:
New York, United States, North America
Route Type:
Ice Climbing
Season:
Winter
Difficulty:
WI 5
Number of Pitches:
3

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Positive Thinking WI5
Created On: Aug 5, 2007
Last Edited On: Jan 7, 2010

Overview

Positive Thinking, is the quintessential Adirondack's ice climbing.
Its steepness and its thin ice makes it a very committing route even in good conditions.
But...if you are up for it....3 pitches of incredible joy!

Getting There

Poke-O lies on the west side of Rt. 9 between Keeseville and Elizabethtown. It can easily be seen from I-87 (From Albany take I-87 North, take the Keeseville exit and drive 1 mile south on Rte. 9 to the ledge).I you you want to take a look at the route drive past the campground a few hundred feet, looking at the rock face. Park and hike in at the campground - do not walk through the private property north of the campground.

Route Description

P1(150’) climbs the sustained (typically thin) smear to a large ledge and fixed belay on the right, bolts in place, difficult to find if there is a lot of snow. P2(120’) steps up the bulges and surmounts the short vertical column to an ice/rock belay, semi-hanging belay,thigh spot when the second reaches the belay(often in the off width angle chimney on the left). P3(150’) continues up, starting with the off width chimney, opening into a wider section of ice with decreasing steepness, to the trees at the top of the route.(Alternates include the 5.9 handcrack (First Ascent Route) to the near right of the smear, and the Half Mile traverse dike from the far left.)
For the descent you have two options:
1- Hike around to the south and down the prominent descent gully just north of the Waterfall (Not suggested...very long).
2-Rappel the route (2 60 meters Half Ropes), Abalov necessary at the top of the 3rd pitch.

Essential Gear

When in good shape, nothing but a normal/thin ice rack will suffice 10 cm 13 cm ice screws, 1 ice hook. "Half Mile" requires an alpine rock rack. "PT Handcrack" requires a full set of cams and large nuts (PT Pillar takes a fat nut where it can be reached; the shallow roof on the right at 1/3 height takes a medium nut (fixed). 2 60 meters half ropes.

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Positive Thinking WI5

Route
4 Images 2 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

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Parents

AdirondacksRoutes
 
Poke-O-MoonshineRoutes