Cotopaxi Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 246

Cheeseburglar - Dec 29, 2008 2:33 am Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2008

Clear skies!  Sucess!

Great summit, clear skies above the clouds below.
A very tough climb due to skipping an acclimatization day due to cockiness... and the not so unusual unanticipated intestinal distress!
Normal route was in great condition, just a couple running belays across snow bridges over the two crevasses and on the one steep headwall.


emilie - Dec 1, 2008 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Nov 30, 2008

Normal route - 3rd time's the charm!  Sucess!

first time thwarted by weather in 2006, went back 3 days later and was too beat from the attempt in bad conditions. 2008 BOT (Beat One Team) expedition was designed to give me more time to acclimatize and an extra weather window day. i had similar troubles as in 2006 (difficulty recovering quickly from acclimatization hikes) but thanks to the support of my two amazing climbing partners (Jeff B and John G), we made it to the summit after a 7hr 45min effort. left hut at 12:15am and summitted at 8:00am. very satisfied to complete this unfinished business. also, went back without guides or outfitter and had the best time designing our itinerary and making my way through the country.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Nov 14, 2008 3:06 pm Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

Kafai (ENG) and I started our climb from the refuge at 12:30 am. It started snowing the day prior the climb, so we had more than one foot of fresh powder snow, which erased completely the trail up to the summit.

I broke trail up to 5,500 m, then Kafai felt the tiredness of the climb and slowed a bit down his pace. Got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:15 am.

We have great views of the crater and the surrounding ecuadorian Andean mountains. Got back down to the refuge just one hour after the sun hit the northern slopes of Cotopaxi.

I lowered Kafai down with my rope from the summit to the glacier line. He couldn't place a foot in front of the other due to his tirednes and loss of strenght.

Anyway a great successful climb with Kafai before my journey to the US.


TrevorMarrs - Nov 3, 2008 4:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008

Big Test  Sucess!

First climb with crampons and axe and the conditions were a real test lots of snow and high winds about 50% didn´t make the summit so was very pleased with myself although Boris (HIGH EXPEDITIONS) does deserve alot of the credit for his excellent guiding!!


gobriango - Oct 10, 2008 11:41 pm

Aweome..1/2 success  Sucess!

Loved the whole Ecuadorian experience. Crazy views. Would love to go back and stay with my partner onto the summit.


hellobeccalee - Oct 9, 2008 1:19 pm Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2008

Successful Summit - Normal Route  Sucess!

Woke to half cloudy and half starry sky. Left hut to climb at 1:15am. Sky cleared as we ascended. Beautiful climb and glacier. Only 3 other parties that day, made for a more solitary experience. Hit summit at 6:30am, great sunrise. At the time Volcan Tungurahua was erupting, we could see the high plume of smoke in the distance. Got back down to hut at 9:30am. Wonderful climb! Boot track was well set. We scouted the route onto the glacier the day before - helped to save time in the morning darkness. We had trouble getting into the park since we were not using a guide. Be aware and prepared for this if you are going to Cotopaxi to climb without a guide! Good trip, the folks at Hostel Valhalla helped us a great deal!


jmitch421 - Sep 8, 2008 5:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007

Normal Route

This was my first experience mountain climbing. Had a guide who spoke no English, gear that didnt fit, and no sleep in the hut. I was unprepared and didnt know what to expect. Didnt make the summit got to around 17,500 ft and the altitude was too much planning to go back in Feb 2009 and try again.


ChristianRodriguez - Sep 8, 2008 1:22 am Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Douglas Leonardo, Siomara Pineda and me all from Guatemala, climbed this huge volcano, we move very slow, many people return without summit, many more reach the summit and back a couple of hours before we reach the top. We insist and finally reach summit in 6 1/2 hours... weather was perfect, amazing views, clear sky and soft wind. Really nice conditions help us a lot.

Desert Solitaire

Desert Solitaire - Aug 27, 2008 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2008

Cotopaxi, Solo-paxi  Sucess!

Climbed solo, but hardly a solitary experience, as I counted over 35 people as I passed them up on the way up. Left the hut at 2am, summit at 5:30. Arrived too early, so huddled together in the biting cold and spindrift for 45 minutes for the warmth to come, but it never did. Cloudy, misty, no views of the crater or other volcanoes. After some dancing around the misty crater, descended back to the hut in 1 hr from the top. Made friends with lots of the wonderful Ecuadorian mountain guides - very nice folks and filled with lots good vibes back at the hut! Total RT time: 5.5 hrs.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Aug 23, 2008 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

Trevor (ENG) and I got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) @ 6:50 am. Six hours of climbing on soft snow.

It snowed the whole night and morning, we got at least 2 feet of new snow. The crater was cloudy...but we got to see the lowlands and Rumiñahui completely covered by snow.


pyerger - Aug 12, 2008 11:12 pm Date Climbed: Feb 20, 2004

Try again next time

I should have spent a little more time on the mountain, Got A.M.S. wow! it was bad. Made to about 17500 feet. I will have to go back.


mmcguigan - Aug 1, 2008 4:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Great climb up. Took us about 5 hours to top out. We were covered with ice. Got a quick view of the cone and then the clouds ate everything up.


HeyItsBen - Jul 31, 2008 5:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Wanted to get to this peak after I saw some pictures of it 4 years before, such an amazing mountain. Weather was bad, no views from the top, and it was much more challenging than I expected. Some of the most beautiful crevasses I've ever seen.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jul 30, 2008 12:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

A fast climb. Irina (RUS) and I got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) @ 5:50 am. Just before sunrise. Couldn't see the crater but an endless sea of clouds beneath us.

Conditions on the mountain were perfect, just a bit windy above 5,400 m.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jul 15, 2008 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

Raquel (ECU) and I left the refuge at 12:36 am. Climbing conditions were perfect up to 5,200 m, the end of Heartbreaker route (rompe corazones). Once at the ridge, the wind increased significantly and we both felt like kytes, being blown away of the mountain.

We got to the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:50 am. Had a great view of surroundings and the crater as well. Came back to the refuge and headed back to town very happy.

Nice experience. Can't say the same about the overnight at the refuge where the ecuatorian Army and their families didn't let anybody sleep. Noisy people with no respect for climbers!


cristakhe - Feb 26, 2008 9:57 am Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2008

normal route  Sucess!

Nice route, but with to many climbers.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Feb 18, 2008 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

After two nights at the refuge we pushed for the summit. The snow/ice conditions were great, and even more after the last avalanche that covered the last part near the summit.

Heloise (FRA), Gary (USA) and I were lucky to see the crater and surrounding mountains in this clear day. It was just amazing!


Hotfeet - Jan 21, 2008 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2008

Normal route  Sucess!

A great climb. Views of crater were totally cloud covered.


ericd - Jan 16, 2008 4:37 pm Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2008

Wonderful high altitude nirvana  Sucess!

3,500' upper elevation gain with 45 degree consistent climbing. Class 2-3, porters fixed a couple of 100 meter lines vertically and horizontally, to safeguard against the few hungry crevasses. Huge 400' rock wall traversed about 2/3 the way up, called Yanasacha. Perfect lava dome volcano with a straight forward approach. Set out at midnight after spending comfortable evening at Jose Ribas base camp 15,800'. 7hrs later reached the summit with tiny breaks in the clouds but remaining high humidity and low visibility. A bit windy enough to justify breathing thru a tight balaclava. A wonderful high altitude nirvana at 19,347'.

Jerry S

Jerry S - Dec 14, 2007 9:24 am Date Climbed: Dec 7, 2007

Normal Route

Great climb. Tough climb. Turned around 200ft from the summit due to seeing stars on the ground. Felt great after descending 300ft, but that was the end of my day.
Sweet mountain.

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