Crack of Dust 5.8

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Created On: Jul 19, 2009
Last Edited On: Jul 19, 2009

Crack of Dust

One of the best crack climbs at Mission Gorge. It is a 1" to 2" wide crack in a left facing dihedral. You can find it just south of Susie's Wild Ride. The entire climb is well protected. I once watched a guy climb this who used only nuts and after each placement, he hung off of the gear and rested. But don't climb it that way, it's a straight forward, and fun, crack climb.

While the crack is short, the difficulty is consistent all the way up if you stay true to the crack, but down low it is hard to stay in the crack and not step out onto the big footholds alongside. As you move further up, you have no choice, you have to stay true to the crack. It is a little harder toward the top but there are no ledges below you at that point.

I took a fall off of this climb early in my climbing career, I was on the upper part and had one solid hand and when I lost my hand jam, my feet stayed, I went off headfirst and backwards, I walked away with only my ego bruised.

Looking down from the top, with lots of gear placed Rick finishing up.