Cynthia’s Hand Job, 5.10+, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

 
According to Alex McAfee’s old guide book, “Zion Rock, The Finest Climbs of Zion National Park”, he labels Cerberus as “cragging in Zion doesn’t get better.” The Falcon Guide calls the Cerberus wall base climbs the “best selection of one pitch free climbs” of Zion Canyon. One thing I can attest to is that access cannot get easier (well unless you are stuck riding the tourist shuttle in season). Cerberus is just 200’ off the park road behind the Big Bend Overlook pullout.
 
Arguably the finest single pitch of free climbing on Cerberus Gendarme and perhaps all of Zion National Park is the second pitch of Cynthia’s Hand Job, 5.10+. This route is not actually located on the main Cerberus Gendarme wall which faces west, but rather up canyon around the Big Bend about 100 yards. Due to the dirty first pitch and lack of a decent approach trail (albeit short one), this route does not see near the attention it deserves. The incredible 160’ hand crack (2nd pitch) will rival any route at Indian Creek: 160' of 90% 2” hand jams. Most of it has a slightly overhanging tilt making it nice and physical. There are several good rests with the pure (no feet) longest section at the end. There are two wide sections, including the start which is a bit of a flaring chimney. When you lose hands again, it will require a knee jam and/or arm bar for a meter or two to get back to hands.

The trail is a bit difficult to locate. It is more than 100' up canyon from the Big Bend like Bryan’s guide book suggest, rather more like 100 yards up canyon, then straight up a loose sandy trail. Look for the huge roof which is above the 2nd pitch that marks the line which is fairly straight up. Take all the 2” pieces you have along with a few 3” pieces. You can also place a 4” and 5” in those wider sections. You need double ropes to descend the second pitch.

Route Description (s)

300’+/-, 2 Pitches, 5.10+

1st Pitch- 25m- 5.9/ The first pitch is not that aesthetic, particularly compared to what you are getting ready to climb for the second pitch, but it is a crack/corner and offers a few interesting moves for the grade. It is a bit dirty. Always a hand jam when you need one and not that overly sustained. There is a fixed rap up and left. When descending, go down the chimney on your left.

2nd Pitch- 50m- 5.10+/ Scramble up right and then back left making for the obvious crack directly above and below the huge roof. I drug my ropes here versus recoiling. The start is a short flared section. I chimney’ed up it facing west. There are several foot ledges. Eventually you get your first hand jam and then you are off to the races. There are two solid standing rests on the pitch. It is just a tad overhanging. You will reach another wide section. Solid knee jam technique will gain you the meter or two you need here to reach hand jams again. The last section is the purest, just full on hand jamming, feet in the corner, no features. The exit could take a smaller piece before you step on a solid foot ledge out left and reach for the fixed rap station.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

70m rope rap from the top anchors, then scramble down to the single rope rap off the first pitch, both fixed stations (2014).

Essential Gear

Update, I have now lead this route half a dozen times.  70m is perfect, just gets you down the 2nd pitch.   The second crux pitch takes Single from #.5 to C4#4, Doubles #1-#2, then as many #2's as you have.   I had five yesterday, and walked them some.  It is so easy and secure to move them, I am sure that is plenty.   It is a small hands crack, but you really work to place those two #1's.  #2's is want you want.  The crux of the route involves not placing a C4#4 when you first get to the wide middle section.  Instead, place a #2 before it opens up to #4 so the #4 cam will not be in the way of a critical lay back foot placement.   Tired of making the same mistake, so thought I would cover it here if for no on else but myself next time.    For the first pitch, double to #2 with an extra #2 and a #3. This pitch is quite chossy, so I always like to sew it up. Folks hate the first pitch so much a fixed line was set up in 2012, although I do not condone this style nor will the park. I will prob remove it next time if it is still there. This side of the wall gets good morning shade with early afternoon sun. Take sun away this deep in Zion Canyon, it can get a bit cool during winter, spring and fall.

External Links

• The Many Free Routes in Zion National Park
  
• Zion National Park
  
• trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices/closures, weather conditions, camping permits, canyon water levels, etc.
  
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• Great Outdoors Depot

Images

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