Dent Blanche Climber's Log

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andrea.it

andrea.it - Jul 23, 2017 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2016

south ridge  Sucess!

Climbed along the south ridge

JanG

JanG - Jul 28, 2016 8:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2016

Wandfluegrat and very long descent to Ferpecle  Sucess!

We had ideal weather conditions on this spectacular but remote mountain. Just to get to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche took us more than 5 hours (done with my son Christoph and respective local guides for each of us). For the summit we started at 3 AM, climbing conditions were perfect and we reached the top 5.5 hrs later. The summit views were unforgettable.

After a good lunch stop at the Cabane, we started the very long trek to our cars at 4 PM even though the guides had suggested that we spend another night at the hut. We lost our way at the bottom of the snow fields but eventually we got to the starting point at 10 PM as we were getting ready to use our headlamps.

All in all, I feel proud to have endured 19 hours up & down in one day at the age of 70 and was able to maintain a steady pace with my son Christoph who is half my age at 35!

pablo

pablo - Jul 19, 2016 11:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2016

South Ridge  Sucess!

Perfect weather and conditions.

Nico and I departed hut Rossier (3507m) at 445am ..beautiful views of Cervino w/ first sun light ..

Only 5 ropes in the ridge (2 Suisse, 1 german, 1 "7 summiters" canadien and holland, and us).

We are 3rd on top exactly at 9am. All climb and descend on crampons, mixed snow/rock; very thin ridge close to the top.

Then all way down to parking at 17h.

This date is exactly the 154th anniversary of 1rst climb by Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram with Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig as guides (that was 18 July 1862)

An extraordinary mountain and summit to celebrate my 50 !!

JuhoK

JuhoK - Oct 13, 2014 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2014

North Face Direct  Sucess!

Climbed the beautiful NF via direct (TD+, 900m) route. Due to our slow pace, we bivouaced at 4200 meters on the face. Summited next morning. Descent via south ridge.

Valtho

Valtho - Sep 3, 2014 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2014

South ridge  Sucess!

To reach the summit of Dent Blanche in this bad weather summer was a very nice surprise. The south ridge route was in very good condition with a lot of snow. It was cold, but clear skies and quite a strong wind but we reached the summit in 3 hours and 20 minutes.

Neha

Neha - Apr 8, 2014 12:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2013

E ridge from Col de la Serpentine   Sucess!

We started from Dix hut and summited the mountain via Col de la Serpentine. It's good mountain to learn or practice your mountaineering techniques.

mulidivarese

mulidivarese - Aug 14, 2012 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2011

Normal Route  Sucess!

Normal from Cabane du Dent Blanche.
Bit of snow and ice, no major problems
with Carlo

markhallam

markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1986

South ridge  Sucess!

Climbed the south ridge via the Grande Gendarme. Moved very fast climbing unroped.

il.rocciatore

il.rocciatore - Aug 28, 2010 6:42 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: august 2010  Sucess!

After a short bad weather break in Belgium, we are back in Val d'Hérens for an attempt on the South Ridge of Dent Blanche. Given the crowded Dent Blanche Hut, we are not the only ones with these intentions.

Although the weather forecast indicated perfect weather, we started our climb the next morning in cold, cloudy and very windy conditions. Easy climbing to the base of the Grand Gendarme, we already passed the crowds by then and had all the technical sections for ourselves. Made it without problems to the summit in a little less than 4 hours.

During descent the sun finally broke through and allowed us to enjoy the fantastic views from the ridge to the Obergabelhorn, Matterhorn, ... Great climb, great satisfaction!

vincepeters

vincepeters - Jun 29, 2010 3:45 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009

South Ridge  Sucess!

Perfect conditions, perfect weather. What a beautiful mountain. Oh and the best view ever.

ThomasOldeHeuvelt

ThomasOldeHeuvelt - Sep 13, 2008 2:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008

Wandflue Ridge from bivouac right below the gendarme  Sucess!

Beautiful climb on one of the most impressive peaks of the Alps. We avoided the crowds from the Cabane the Dent Blanche by making a bivouac right below the Grand Gendarme at 3950 m. This means a heavy backpack and a long ascent on the first day, but a thrilling, expedition like experience on the ridge, the bivouac, and avoids the crowds in the tricky passages the next day. From there we made it in little over 2,5 hours to the summit.

skileraar

skileraar - Sep 7, 2008 6:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008

Route Climbed: South Ridge  Sucess!

Good conditions, not very much snow. Took us 3 1/2 hours to get up :)

Cyrill

Cyrill - Jul 24, 2008 10:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008

Dent Blanche 4357m  Sucess!

a fantastic tour on a admirable and demanding the 4000er of the Swiss Alps. Wow! Wow! Wow!

gregorywp

gregorywp - Oct 11, 2007 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2007

South Ridge  Sucess!

50 Kmh Winds, 10 cm of fresh snow, -10 degrees, it was grueling, but we made it to the top. It felt great and such beautiful views of the Cervin! N.B. The Grand Gendarme was more difficult than it looked.

mamo

mamo - Sep 26, 2007 4:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2007

Great !  Sucess!

After 3 days of bad weather , me and my friend Paul King arrived to the cabanne alone(where there was a funny and pleasant nepalese guardian), and were completely alone during the whole climbing of Wandfluegrat to the top! Perfect weather: a great day , on a really throne of ice and rocks !

Samuli Mansikka

Samuli Mansikka - Nov 28, 2006 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006

Normal route  Sucess!

What a splendid mountain! I have had my eyes on it everytime I went to the Alps. I was happy to get to climb it in July with my friend Kurt (Durango, CO). We had the most beautiful morning and almost dead calm weather so the climb was one of the most enjoyable ones I've ever done.
We approached the Dent Blanche Hut from the South through the Wandfluelücke which was a lot better than the approach next to Tete Blanche which we took for the way back to Zermatt.

Photos: www.samulimansikka.com

Gripped

Gripped - Sep 15, 2006 2:15 pm

South Ridge  Sucess!

We had a fantastic bivy above the hut. Great views and a feeling of isolation.

bbirtle

bbirtle - Sep 4, 2005 9:36 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Sept 3, 2005  Sucess!

Great weather, great conditions. Beautiful sunrise. Really enjoyable crux section.

schadik

schadik - Nov 23, 2001 1:34 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: 1998  Sucess!

Fantastic mountain, phenomenal views. Do not miss out on all the gendarmes if you have the time,energy and weather on your side.

Gui Lemmens

Gui Lemmens - Mar 22, 2001 3:27 am

Route Climbed: south ridge Date Climbed: 1985  Sucess!

very nice mixed climb

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