Dent Blanche is an important peak located on the divide marking the linguistic boundary between the French and German speaking parts of the Wallis region in Switzerland. The peak is symmetrical in shape with four faces and four ridges giving it the appearance of a cross when viewed on a map. The spectacular appearance of this peak attracts many climbers to its faces and ridges. Maupassant called Dent Blanche "the Flirt (coquette) Montrous".
Those ridges are:
S or Wandfluegrat (Normal and easiest route, AD or BD). So this is not a climb for everybody.
W or Ferpècle (D+).
N or Col de la Dent Blanche (TD/TD+ or MD/MD+).
E, Viereselsgrat or Arete des Quatre Anes (D).
As well the N face (TD/TD+ or MD/MD+) is one of the most difficult N faces in the Alps.
First climb: S ridge by Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram with Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig as guides in 18 July 1862. First Winter climb: N ridge by P. Crettaz and J. Gaudin in 1-2 March 1963.
From the Cabane de Dent Blanche (3.507 m) or from Schönbielhütte (2.694 m) you will reach the South
ridge (crampons). First reach Wandfluelucke at 3.703 m. The ridge is of solid rock III/III+ section softed ascending an icy couloir, excellent scenery. Mixed sections and snow to 35º. Very recommended!
From Sion in the Rhône Valley, advance to Val d'Herens, Les Haudères and then to Salay (at Ferpècle). Starting point for the normal route : Refuge Rossier (3.507 m). You'll need 5-6 hours from Ferpècle (Val d'Hérence) to approach this hut.
Road to Sion then post bus to Les Haudères (33 Km) at 1.436 m, a very pleasant spot.
Ferpècle parking 7 Km from Les Haudères via La Forclaz and Salay, until the bridge over la Borgne de Ferpècle.
Distances from Sion:
Evolène 24,5 km
La Forclaz 32 km
Le Haudères 28.3 km
Distances from Région d'Evolène:
FRIBOURG 150 km
GENEVE 190 km
LAUSANNE 120 km
NEUCHATEL 184 km
ZURICH 305 km
BRUXELLES 800 km
FRANCFORT 600 km
PARIS 620 km
TURIN 225 km
Buses at Sion (Région d'Evolène) bus-station, line 4.
Rail to Sion by:
TGV des Neiges (Paris - Sion)
The nearest International airport is Géneve-Cointrin and the regional airport is Sion.
When To Climb
June to September is the most adequate period for climbing this mountain.
In Evolène (1.371 m), Evoléne.
In Les Haudères, Molignon.
Dent Blanche Huts
(There're many web sites concerning refuges, depending on the site you'll find one information or another, so the differences between my information and that of a web site can vary a little. Also the information in the sites is changed in time).
CABANE DE LA DENT BLANCHE OR REFUGE ROSSIER (3.507 m)
CAS hut , klasse 1, 55 places, opens from early July to mid September. Phone +41 (0)27 283 10 85). Info - booking: Martine Fournier, Bâtiment de la Poste, 1983 Evolène (027 283 14 66). Prices per night at 2000:
Members of less than 20 years-old: Fr. 20.-
Non membres : Fr. 26.- From 15 to 22 years-old : Fr. 15.- From 10 to 19: Fr. 17.- Less than: Fr. 10.- Half board: Fr. 29.-
TRN Information about trains in France and trains from France to Switzerland. In french only.
CIS ALPINO AG Information about trains of this swiss company which join Switzerland with Italy and Germany. In french, german, italian and english.
SBB Information about trains of this reputable swiss company. In english.
CFF Information about this famous swiss train company. In french.
FFS Information about this worthy swiss train company. In italian.
SBB in german Information about this reputable swiss train company.
TRENITALIE Information about trains of Ferrovie dello Stato S. p. A (FS), the famous italian company, wich joins Italy with Switzerland. In italian, english, german, french and spanish.
SNCF The site of this french train company. In french, spanish, german, english, italian and flemish.
Règion Evolène A very complete site of this swiss region: lodging, restaurants, events, skiing, reguges, sports, access information, weather, avalanches, villages info, photos, etc. In french and english.
Le Nouvelliste 4 days weather forecast in région Evolène, not centred on the mountain area but it could be an aid. Also there is a webcam focusing on Sion (Switzerland) and the actual temperature there.