Ryland - Jul 18, 2019 6:19 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2019
Brilliant clear sunrise
I climbed with an excellent Swiss guide on the south ridge. Conditions were excellent - very little snow or ice (possibly due to the heatwave) but it was fairly cold on top. Enjoyable climbing on good rock, including the Grand Gendarme, though a bit busy with several groups on the mountain, and the day provided a very special sunrise.
JanG - Jul 28, 2016 8:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2016
Wandfluegrat and very long descent to Ferpecle
We had ideal weather conditions on this spectacular but remote mountain. Just to get to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche took us more than 5 hours (done with my son Christoph and respective local guides for each of us). For the summit we started at 3 AM, climbing conditions were perfect and we reached the top 5.5 hrs later. The summit views were unforgettable.
After a good lunch stop at the Cabane, we started the very long trek to our cars at 4 PM even though the guides had suggested that we spend another night at the hut. We lost our way at the bottom of the snow fields but eventually we got to the starting point at 10 PM as we were getting ready to use our headlamps.
All in all, I feel proud to have endured 19 hours up & down in one day at the age of 70 and was able to maintain a steady pace with my son Christoph who is half my age at 35!
pablo - Jul 19, 2016 11:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2016
South Ridge
Perfect weather and conditions.
Nico and I departed hut Rossier (3507m) at 445am ..beautiful views of Cervino w/ first sun light ..
Only 5 ropes in the ridge (2 Suisse, 1 german, 1 "7 summiters" canadien and holland, and us).
We are 3rd on top exactly at 9am. All climb and descend on crampons, mixed snow/rock; very thin ridge close to the top.
Then all way down to parking at 17h.
This date is exactly the 154th anniversary of 1rst climb by Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram with Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig as guides (that was 18 July 1862)
An extraordinary mountain and summit to celebrate my 50 !!
JuhoK - Oct 13, 2014 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2014
North Face Direct
Climbed the beautiful NF via direct (TD+, 900m) route. Due to our slow pace, we bivouaced at 4200 meters on the face. Summited next morning. Descent via south ridge.
Valtho - Sep 3, 2014 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2014
South ridge
To reach the summit of Dent Blanche in this bad weather summer was a very nice surprise. The south ridge route was in very good condition with a lot of snow. It was cold, but clear skies and quite a strong wind but we reached the summit in 3 hours and 20 minutes.
Neha - Apr 8, 2014 12:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2013
E ridge from Col de la Serpentine
We started from Dix hut and summited the mountain via Col de la Serpentine. It's good mountain to learn or practice your mountaineering techniques.
mulidivarese - Aug 14, 2012 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2011
Normal Route
Normal from Cabane du Dent Blanche.
Bit of snow and ice, no major problems
with Carlo
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1986
South ridge
Climbed the south ridge via the Grande Gendarme. Moved very fast climbing unroped.
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: august 2010
After a short bad weather break in Belgium, we are back in Val d'Hérens for an attempt on the South Ridge of Dent Blanche. Given the crowded Dent Blanche Hut, we are not the only ones with these intentions.
Although the weather forecast indicated perfect weather, we started our climb the next morning in cold, cloudy and very windy conditions. Easy climbing to the base of the Grand Gendarme, we already passed the crowds by then and had all the technical sections for ourselves. Made it without problems to the summit in a little less than 4 hours.
During descent the sun finally broke through and allowed us to enjoy the fantastic views from the ridge to the Obergabelhorn, Matterhorn, ... Great climb, great satisfaction!
vincepeters - Jun 29, 2010 3:45 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009
South Ridge
Perfect conditions, perfect weather. What a beautiful mountain. Oh and the best view ever.
Wandflue Ridge from bivouac right below the gendarme
Beautiful climb on one of the most impressive peaks of the Alps. We avoided the crowds from the Cabane the Dent Blanche by making a bivouac right below the Grand Gendarme at 3950 m. This means a heavy backpack and a long ascent on the first day, but a thrilling, expedition like experience on the ridge, the bivouac, and avoids the crowds in the tricky passages the next day. From there we made it in little over 2,5 hours to the summit.
skileraar - Sep 7, 2008 6:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008
Route Climbed: South Ridge
Good conditions, not very much snow. Took us 3 1/2 hours to get up :)
Cyrill - Jul 24, 2008 10:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008
Dent Blanche 4357m
a fantastic tour on a admirable and demanding the 4000er of the Swiss Alps. Wow! Wow! Wow!
gregorywp - Oct 11, 2007 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2007
South Ridge
50 Kmh Winds, 10 cm of fresh snow, -10 degrees, it was grueling, but we made it to the top. It felt great and such beautiful views of the Cervin! N.B. The Grand Gendarme was more difficult than it looked.
After 3 days of bad weather , me and my friend Paul King arrived to the cabanne alone(where there was a funny and pleasant nepalese guardian), and were completely alone during the whole climbing of Wandfluegrat to the top! Perfect weather: a great day , on a really throne of ice and rocks !
Samuli Mansikka - Nov 28, 2006 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006
Normal route
What a splendid mountain! I have had my eyes on it everytime I went to the Alps. I was happy to get to climb it in July with my friend Kurt (Durango, CO). We had the most beautiful morning and almost dead calm weather so the climb was one of the most enjoyable ones I've ever done.
We approached the Dent Blanche Hut from the South through the Wandfluelücke which was a lot better than the approach next to Tete Blanche which we took for the way back to Zermatt.
Ryland - Jul 18, 2019 6:19 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2019
Brilliant clear sunriseI climbed with an excellent Swiss guide on the south ridge. Conditions were excellent - very little snow or ice (possibly due to the heatwave) but it was fairly cold on top. Enjoyable climbing on good rock, including the Grand Gendarme, though a bit busy with several groups on the mountain, and the day provided a very special sunrise.
andrea.it - Jul 23, 2017 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2016
south ridgeClimbed along the south ridge
JanG - Jul 28, 2016 8:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2016
Wandfluegrat and very long descent to FerpecleWe had ideal weather conditions on this spectacular but remote mountain. Just to get to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche took us more than 5 hours (done with my son Christoph and respective local guides for each of us). For the summit we started at 3 AM, climbing conditions were perfect and we reached the top 5.5 hrs later. The summit views were unforgettable.
After a good lunch stop at the Cabane, we started the very long trek to our cars at 4 PM even though the guides had suggested that we spend another night at the hut. We lost our way at the bottom of the snow fields but eventually we got to the starting point at 10 PM as we were getting ready to use our headlamps.
All in all, I feel proud to have endured 19 hours up & down in one day at the age of 70 and was able to maintain a steady pace with my son Christoph who is half my age at 35!
pablo - Jul 19, 2016 11:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2016
South RidgePerfect weather and conditions.
Nico and I departed hut Rossier (3507m) at 445am ..beautiful views of Cervino w/ first sun light ..
Only 5 ropes in the ridge (2 Suisse, 1 german, 1 "7 summiters" canadien and holland, and us).
We are 3rd on top exactly at 9am. All climb and descend on crampons, mixed snow/rock; very thin ridge close to the top.
Then all way down to parking at 17h.
This date is exactly the 154th anniversary of 1rst climb by Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram with Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig as guides (that was 18 July 1862)
An extraordinary mountain and summit to celebrate my 50 !!
JuhoK - Oct 13, 2014 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2014
North Face DirectClimbed the beautiful NF via direct (TD+, 900m) route. Due to our slow pace, we bivouaced at 4200 meters on the face. Summited next morning. Descent via south ridge.
Valtho - Sep 3, 2014 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2014
South ridgeTo reach the summit of Dent Blanche in this bad weather summer was a very nice surprise. The south ridge route was in very good condition with a lot of snow. It was cold, but clear skies and quite a strong wind but we reached the summit in 3 hours and 20 minutes.
Neha - Apr 8, 2014 12:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2013
E ridge from Col de la SerpentineWe started from Dix hut and summited the mountain via Col de la Serpentine. It's good mountain to learn or practice your mountaineering techniques.
mulidivarese - Aug 14, 2012 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2011
Normal RouteNormal from Cabane du Dent Blanche.
Bit of snow and ice, no major problems
with Carlo
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1986
South ridgeClimbed the south ridge via the Grande Gendarme. Moved very fast climbing unroped.
il.rocciatore - Aug 28, 2010 6:42 am
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: august 2010After a short bad weather break in Belgium, we are back in Val d'Hérens for an attempt on the South Ridge of Dent Blanche. Given the crowded Dent Blanche Hut, we are not the only ones with these intentions.
Although the weather forecast indicated perfect weather, we started our climb the next morning in cold, cloudy and very windy conditions. Easy climbing to the base of the Grand Gendarme, we already passed the crowds by then and had all the technical sections for ourselves. Made it without problems to the summit in a little less than 4 hours.
During descent the sun finally broke through and allowed us to enjoy the fantastic views from the ridge to the Obergabelhorn, Matterhorn, ... Great climb, great satisfaction!
vincepeters - Jun 29, 2010 3:45 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009
South RidgePerfect conditions, perfect weather. What a beautiful mountain. Oh and the best view ever.
ThomasOldeHeuvelt - Sep 13, 2008 2:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008
Wandflue Ridge from bivouac right below the gendarmeBeautiful climb on one of the most impressive peaks of the Alps. We avoided the crowds from the Cabane the Dent Blanche by making a bivouac right below the Grand Gendarme at 3950 m. This means a heavy backpack and a long ascent on the first day, but a thrilling, expedition like experience on the ridge, the bivouac, and avoids the crowds in the tricky passages the next day. From there we made it in little over 2,5 hours to the summit.
skileraar - Sep 7, 2008 6:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008
Route Climbed: South RidgeGood conditions, not very much snow. Took us 3 1/2 hours to get up :)
Cyrill - Jul 24, 2008 10:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008
Dent Blanche 4357ma fantastic tour on a admirable and demanding the 4000er of the Swiss Alps. Wow! Wow! Wow!
gregorywp - Oct 11, 2007 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2007
South Ridge50 Kmh Winds, 10 cm of fresh snow, -10 degrees, it was grueling, but we made it to the top. It felt great and such beautiful views of the Cervin! N.B. The Grand Gendarme was more difficult than it looked.
mamo - Sep 26, 2007 4:18 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2007
Great !After 3 days of bad weather , me and my friend Paul King arrived to the cabanne alone(where there was a funny and pleasant nepalese guardian), and were completely alone during the whole climbing of Wandfluegrat to the top! Perfect weather: a great day , on a really throne of ice and rocks !
Samuli Mansikka - Nov 28, 2006 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006
Normal routeWhat a splendid mountain! I have had my eyes on it everytime I went to the Alps. I was happy to get to climb it in July with my friend Kurt (Durango, CO). We had the most beautiful morning and almost dead calm weather so the climb was one of the most enjoyable ones I've ever done.
We approached the Dent Blanche Hut from the South through the Wandfluelücke which was a lot better than the approach next to Tete Blanche which we took for the way back to Zermatt.
Photos: www.samulimansikka.com
Gripped - Sep 15, 2006 2:15 pm
South RidgeWe had a fantastic bivy above the hut. Great views and a feeling of isolation.
bbirtle - Sep 4, 2005 9:36 am
Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Sept 3, 2005Great weather, great conditions. Beautiful sunrise. Really enjoyable crux section.
schadik - Nov 23, 2001 1:34 am
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: 1998Fantastic mountain, phenomenal views. Do not miss out on all the gendarmes if you have the time,energy and weather on your side.