Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 39.18144°N / 68.19935°E
Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed
Season: Summer
Elevation: 16798 ft / 5120 m

Overview

Energia (which means "Energy" in Russian) is one of the 5000-meter peaks in the Fan Mountains. It is located near the Mutnye Lakes, very close to the highest peak in the region - Chimtarga (5489 m), from which it is separated by the Chimtarga pass (4750 m). The easiest route to the summit is a Russian grade 2b route along the north ridge/north face.

The ascent routes start either from the Mutnye Lakes (which lie at the upper end of the Chapdara valley) or from the Right Zindon valley. The latter can be reached either by hiking in from west via the Big Allo Lake, or from east via the Mutnye Lakes by crossing over the Chimtarga pass (4750 m).

Energia from the Chimtarga pass Energia as seen from the Chimtarga pass (4750 m).
SE face of Energia The SE face of Energia (5120 m) as seen from the upper Kaznok valley.
South face of Energia The south face of Energia.


Energia from the upper Kaznok valley Energia as seen from the upper Kaznok valley. Far ahead are the mountain passes Kaznok East and VAA, which connect the Kaznok valley with the Mutnye Lakes at the upper end of the Chapdara valley.


Energia from eastEnergia as seen from east.

Getting There

A usual starting point for climbing in the area is the mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" (2641 m) in the Chapdara Valley near the gorgeous Alaudin Lakes. From there it is an easy 7 km hike of about 3 hours up to the Mutnye Lakes (3519 m). There is a possibility to hire donkeys at "Vertical-Alaudin".

Chapdara valleyA panoramic view of the Chapdara valley near mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin".


Trail to the Mutnye LakesRoute from the Big Alaudin Lake to the Mutnye Lakes.
Camp at the Mutnye LakesCamping at the Mutnye Lakes.
View on Energia from near the Mutnye LakesApproaching the Mutnye Lakes, looking SW towards Energia.


For more information, see the chapters "Getting There and Getting Around" and "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains page.

Routes

The established routes vary from Russian grade 2b to 5a (description of the Russian climbing grades can be found
here). The website of "Vertical-Alaudin" contains detailed information about the more difficult routes on Energia (in Russian only). These links are included in the following table.

Grade (Russian) Characteristics Orientation First Ascent (Leader, Year) Starting Point
2b mixed north ridge/north face E. Kazakova, 1937 Mutnye Lakes
4a rock east ridge Iu. Pivnenko, 1973 Mutnye Lakes
4a mixed west ridge Iu. Karpov, 1967 Right Zindon valley
5a mixed NE face A. Neplokhov, 1979 Mutnye Lakes
5a mixed west face V. Menshikov, 1967 Right Zindon valley


North face  routeThe north face route (Russian grade 2b) to the summit of Energia.
North face of EnergiaThe north face of Energia: abseiling the steepest part of the route.
Peak EnergiaDescending the steep north face of Energia.




Summit Views

Below are some informative photos taken from the summit of Energia. These photos display the names of surrounding peaks (in brown letters) and mountain passes (in blue letters).

Summit panoramaA 270° panoramic view from the summit of Energia from E to N (looking south).


Summit panoramaA 360° panorama from the summit of Energia.


Summit viewA view SE from the summit of Energia.
Summit viewA view east from the summit of Energia.
Summit viewA view from the summit of Energia towards the Mutnye Lakes.


Summit viewA view south towards the Biriuzovoe Lake (in the middle) from the summit of Energia.
Summit viewAt the summit of Energia, looking SW.
Right Zindon valleyAt the summit of Energia, looking NW towards the Right Zindon valley.


Chimtarga as seen from EnergiaThe south face of Chimtarga, as seen from the summit of Energia (5120 m).


Red Tape

No fees (environmental, climbing, etc.) as for 2011. Travellers (with a tourist visa) staying maximum 1 month are exempt from the OVIR registration as for 2011. As the conditions are vulnerable to change please check with the Tajik embassy and/or your local agency in Tajikistan.

For visas and registration, see also the chapter "Red Tape (Visas, Border Crossing, Registration etc.)" in the Fan Mountains page.

When to Climb

The mountaineering season is from June to September (July and August being the most popular months), when the weather is usually stable, warm and dry.

External Links

Maps

  • A topographic map of the Fan Mountains
  • A map of the area by V. Kopylov. Mountaineers' camp "Vertical-Alaudin" is marked as "Base camp" on this map.
  • 1:100 000 topographic map of the Fan Mountains by EWP
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:100 000 and 1:200 000) at Mapstor.com
  • Russian military topographic maps (scale 1:50 000 and 1:100 000) at Poehali.org

Trip reports

  • Fan Mountains 2009 by A. Burke. An excellent photo trip report about trekking (including the mountain passes Chimtarga and Mirali) and climbing (Zamok, Energia) around the Mutnye Lakes.