A prominent summit near Mutnye Lake, with several difficult climbing routes on the north and west face. The normal route is an easy ascent in the first part several hundert meters elevation gain over loose scree afterwards a glacier (btw. Zamok means castle).
|Zamok from Alaudin Pass
|Zamok N-Face |
|Zamok W-Face |
|Zamok from Kaznok Valley
Starting at the Alaudin Lakes (or Alaudin Camp) in the Pasruddaria Valley - a convenient one day walk-in to Mutnye Lake.
See the chapter "Accommodation - Places to Stay - Camping" in the Fan Mountains
page for more information about the Alaudin Camp.
|Alaudin Lake (looking south) |
|Mutnyi Lake |
|Flower near Mutnyi Lake
Start from Mutnye Lake eastwards turn southwards between Fagitor (3.925m) and Zamok. Follow the scree slope (eastwards again) to the glacier. Near the glacier are some bivouac places (apporx 4.350m). Walk up the moraine to the glacier (the icefall might me diffucult) and continue to the Col between Pakhkamber and Zamok. Walk northwards to the summit of Zamok.
A very long day with an very early start at Mutnye Lake (or two days with a bivouac near the glacier).
|Zamok Glacier |
|Icefall - Zamok Glacier
|Col between Pakhkamber and Zamok |
|to the summit
Views - from near the summit
|Bolshaya Ganza |
|Energia - Chimtarga |
Information about visa, registration and environmental fees are mentioned in the Red Tape in the Fan Mountain Page
When to Climb
As mentioned in the Fan Mountain Range Page: The mountaineering season is usually June to September, when the weather is stable, warm and dry.