Rebuffat, Aiguille du Midi

Rebuffat, Aiguille du Midi

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.87890°N / 6.88780°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: TD, Rock UIAA 6 or 5/A1, 5.10a
Sign the Climber's Log

 

Overview

The Rébuffat route is the original line that renowned climber Gaston Rébuffat and Maurice Baquet climbed on their first ascentof the prominent south face of the Aiguille du Midi (12,605ft/3,842m) on July 13th 1956. Easily accessible from the Aiguille du Midi telepherique, today, this classic route is one of the most popular climbs in the region.

The route climbs the S face of the pillar on the right
 
Working the "S" crack
 
 

Here's an enjoyable video report of the climb.

 

History

Gaston Rébuffat
Gaston Rébuffat

 

Gaston Rébuffat (Marseille, 7 May 1921 - Paris, 31 May 1985)  is a mythical character of mountaineering. He was one of the strongest post-war French alpinists, with several first ascents and many repetitions of the most difficult routes of the period, as the trilogy of the greatest Northern walls of the Alps (Walker, Badile, Eiger). 

Born in Marseille, he started climbing up the famous Calanques from a very young age. During the Nazi occupation he enters the Jeunesse et Montagne, an association born of the Armée de l'air, the French Air Force, where he meets Lionel Terray who will become his companion in many climbs. He decided to move to Chamonix and in 1942 became a mountain guide. His ease on rock and ice made him the classic image of the guide. profession that he exercised for more than 40 years. 

We remember him both as a great mountaineer and as a developer and for his activities of disclosure of mountaineering through its poetic images . Great esthet, he will always talk about the mountain in a poetic and magical way. Thanks to this he inspired many vocation of mountaineers and guides.

His 1956 route on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi, still untouched in those days, has become a classic route. 

 

Getting there

The closest starting point to approach Aiguille du Midi is the town of Chamonix, where to get the departure point of the Aiguille du Midi cable car.

Road approach to Chamonix - From Aosta Valley (Italy)  Follow the E25 Motorway towards Courmayeur, then enter the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Chamonix

 From Martigny (Switzerland)

Follow the road getting the Switzerland – France border, then to the village of Argentière and Chamonix

- From Geneve (Switzerland) Follow the E25 Motorway to St. Gervais les Bains, then the RN 205 to Chamonix

Approach

 

Regular descent down the exposed Aiguille du Midi East ridge and down to the flats on the glacier on the south side of the Aiguille du Midi. Straight up to base of the wall from there. Watch for bergschrunds!

Route Details

 

On the crux pitch

Rebuffat route report - UIAA SCALE

Summit altitude: 3842 m TD, 6a (5c obbl) Climbing length: 200 m Exposure: South First ascent: Gaston Rébuffat and Maurice Baquet  1956Starting point: Chamonix 

Superb quality rock, very varied line on slabs, cracks and overhangs, all styles of granite climbing are present, plus magnificent views over the Mont Blanc group. A route not to be missed!  A bit intricate to find in the upper sections. Descent:

Either rappel back down (plenty of anchors to pick from) or climb around the top of the pillar to the sightseeing platform behind it.When rappeling, keep in mind that the route ascents the wall slightly diagonally to the left, so try to move slightly to the right to get back to the base of the route.Otherwise you may end up climbing snow in rock climbing shoes right next to large crevasse.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required.

When to climb

Mainly summer months. Likely out of condition after recent snowfall, but in warm and sunny weather the route dries quickly. The route is climbed often and can become pretty crowded, so an early start is advisable.

 

Hut

Rifugio des Cosmiques (3613...
Refuge des Cosmiques

 

Refuge des Cosmiques  3613 m – 143 beds. Winter-hut (12 beds) Situation: Mont Blanc group, Col du Midi Owner: Company guides of chamonix Open: from 01/03 to 01/10/2018 Size: 143 persons + 12 in the winter-shelter  Abri Simond near the refuge Getting there: from Aiguille du Midi cable-car upper station; Phone +33450544016 It is also possible to bivy also in the Abrì Perroux, a wooden hut perched on the rocky spur under the Cosmiques shelter. Otherwise bivy on the Col du Midi in a tent. Perfectly legal

Useful information

Office du Tourisme de Chamonix - Phone +33 0450 530024

Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix - Phone +33 0450 532208

Compagnie du MontBlanc Cable-car informations Phone +33 0450 532275

Meteo

Meteo Chamonix

Guidebooks and maps

 

  • The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes (Gaston Rébuffat) (several editions)ISBN 0898864771 (at amazon.com)
  • Mont Blanc Massif: Selected Climbs (Lindsay Griffin) (Volumes I and II, ISBN 0900523573 and 0900523581)
 
Below the roof after the first pitch.Mont Blanc du Tacul in the background.
Mont Blanc du Tacul (left) and the gendarme on theCosmiques ridge (right) in the background.
 



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