Gannett Peak Climber's Log

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Scott Wesemann

Scott Wesemann - Jun 10, 2004 12:55 am

Route Climbed: Ink Wells/Glacier Date Climbed: 7/00 and 7/01

We went in via Ink Wells and out on the Glacier trail. This was a great way to go, because there was more flexibility in case of bad weather. We went up a steep couloir that leads to Petzoldt ridge and down the standard route. It was a very exciting climb. We only stayed on top for about 5 minutes, because a storm was moving in from the West. The views from the summit were unbelievable!! Probably the best views of any summit in the lower 48. Contrary to some, I do not think Gannett is a walk up. It may not be the most technically challenging peak, but the snow slopes are steep and when we were there we encountered some solid ice on some of the steeper sections. We also saw several crevasses that were opened up. The weather and altitude can also make this peak challenging. I recommend crampons, ice axe and a rope if the conditions warrant it. Basically, if the snow is hard and icy, the difficulty level really goes up. On our 2001 trip we encountered a mother bear and a cub on the trail. They came within 50 feet, but they hardly even looked at us. We also saw a bear on our 2000 trip.

7/14/17- 16 years to the day of my first Gannet summit, Craig Lloyd and I did Gannett in a "day" from Elkhart through Titcomb. Made a gnarly descent of Bonney Pass at midnight. Snow was icing up and we were tired from the long day.

mtn runr

mtn runr - May 17, 2004 9:45 pm

Route Climbed: Titcomb Basin, Bonney Pass, Gooseneck Glacier Date Climbed: July 31, 2004  Sucess!

Went alone this time. Stayed at Seneca Lake one night then hiked to upper Titcomb and camped at 10.980'. Climbed Winnifred Peak on friday, and Gannett on Saturday. This place has gotten very, very busy. Many people coming and going. It has degraded the experience.


crag - Jan 23, 2004 1:53 pm

Route Climbed: Titcomb Basin/Bonney Pass/Gooseneck Glacier Date Climbed: June 23, 2000  Sucess!

Early season, very wet. Plenty of skeetrs down low but none at higher elevations. Camped right at the snowline at lower Titcomb Lake. Made an attempt on Mt Helen that got turned around due to storm. The following day we got a 4am start for Gannett. Icy up to the Bonney pass. Good firn snow on the upper Gooseneck. Made the summit by noon. Long, hot, wet trek bck accross the glacier and up to Bonney pass, excellent glissade back down to the Titcomb basin. Great trip, beautiful area.


grandwazoo - Jun 30, 2003 12:07 pm

Route Climbed: Ink Wells - Gooseneck Date Climbed: August 10 2002  Sucess!

Went across the Indian Reservation to save two days, we were heading to Granite after.


tonybell1 - Feb 26, 2003 6:23 pm

Route Climbed: Titcomb to Dunwoody to Gooseneck Date Climbed: July 20, 1989  Sucess!

Dunwoody Pass was high, after which a substantial climb down to the glacier was required and then back up again to get to the summit


Zhenya77 - Jan 23, 2003 8:57 pm

Route Climbed: Date Climbed: August 10, 2001

After our exciting Spring break (we summit Mt. Rainier in the winter conditions) most of our climbing friends agreed upon the trip to Wyoming where we were planning to reach the highest point Gannett Peak (13,804 ft) which part of the Wind River Range. After 18 drive to PIndale we had a two day hike ahead of us. The hike was pretty straightforward up to the point when we hit the Bolder Field. Scrambling through the big rocks with a heavy backpack could be quite physical. Finally on the next day we reached the flats right before the huge rock "circle". On the summit we decided to go straight on the rock clif instead of going around it from the glassie side (exploration of the new route). After couple hours of climb we realize that we climbed on the wall that is separated from the summit. We get back safely. I was a little bit disappointed. However overall i enjoyed the trip.


rmjwinters - Oct 5, 2002 9:36 pm

Route Climbed: Titcomb to Dinwoody to Gooseneck Date Climbed: August 26 1999  Sucess!

Long day from Titcomb Basin. Climbed glacier direct left of Gooseneck. Ascended 55 degree chute to ridge. Great summit.

RCDeming - May 22, 2002 7:36 pm

Route Climbed: Upper Titcomb/Dinwoody/Goosneck Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2001/Aug 31, 1993  Sucess!

I climbed it first from upper Titcomb, 8 years later from Dinwoody (Bonny) Pass. I suggest you take minimum gear up Dinwoody and spend the night there. The climb is a lot more fun starting fresh in daylight than after a gruelling 2 hour climb up Dinwoody in the dark. We summitted in 4 hours! Climbing it with my son in 2001 has been one of the high points of my life.

PS: This mountain scares me every time I see it.

Bob Bolton

Bob Bolton - Dec 19, 2001 9:32 pm

Route Climbed: Dinwoody Pass, Gooseneck Ridge Date Climbed: August 1992  Sucess!

We used parts of three days to reach our base camp between Titcomb Lakes and Dinwoody Pass. On summit day the entire party set off at 5:45AM. One of the party was not able to keep up the kind of pace required for so big a day, so she turned around and went back with her companion after reaching Dinwoody Pass. But by that time we had lost much time and we worried not only about afternoon thunderheads but also of evening darkness. There was much bare ice on the crossing to Gooseneck Ridge. The climb of the ridge was uneventful except at one spot where we found more bare ice and had a few anxious steps without putting on our crampons. On the summit ridge not 500 feet from the top Leon petered out. We couldn't talk him into trying unfortunately. So three of us went on without him. The thunderclouds never materialized, much to our joy! On the way down off the ridge on a rather steep slope with not very deep snow over the rock-hard ice I was leading down toward a crevasse and couldn't keep my footing, arresting several times. During tte last arrest my crampons caught my pants and ripped them wide open, but happily my skin wasn't touched! Duane then backed down with his plastic boots reinforcing the front points, kicking great steps in the process. We all easily downclimbed in the steps. Then came the real test, climbing back up over Dinwoody Pass and then down the other side. We were all totally bushed by the time we reached the bottom of the steeper part of the climb to the pass. Every step up that slope seemed impossible. Once on top it was getting very late and we needed to carefully rush down to the bottom of the valley before dark for maximum safety. We had no time to spare and donned our headlamps as soon as the terrain leveled out. Then how would we find our camp in the dark? I led through the maze of boulders to the main valley, then kept what seemed to be about the right distance from the river on the right and the wall on the left, and amazingly we walked right into camp in that vast valley. Next morning we slept long and well, then spent the entire morning eating and packing up. It was exhaustion at its best! :-)

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