Gimpel (right) with normal route (right)
On the south side of Gimpel between Gimpel summit / Gimpel south face and Gimpelvorbau
there is a system of chutes and meadow and scree ledges starting directly below the Gimpel summit and running diagonally up to the east ridge between Gimpelvorbau and Gimpel.
The normal route to Gimpel summit which is the by far easiest route to climb this peak uses the chute and ledge system and the upper east ridge.
It is a mixed scramble and walking route, in parts a bit exposed, which needs some UIAA grade II moves in the lower parts of the ascent. The route is often used as descent route by climbers.
On days with good weather you will meet many non-climbers, too, trying to reach the summit of this bold mountain. An early start is therefore recommended.
And caution - due to rockfall!
Gimpel (left) with normal route (center)
Best trailheads are Nesselwängle
hiker parking areas (see the Gimpel page
Ascend on trail number 415
. From Gimpelhaus use trail number 415
to Rote Flüh
until you reach the trail junction with trail 418
from Tannheimer Hütte
Turn left on trail 417
and leave the trail to your right at the next trail junction. Follow this trail number 422
, which is mainly used by climbers, below the south faces of Gimpelvorbau and Gimpel until you reach a signpost
. This signpost marks the beginning of the route.
A longer ascent can be made from Musau trailheads
(see the Gimpel page
) via Raintal forest road to Musauer Alm
About 800 m after Musauer Alm leave the forest road by turning left at a trail junction. Follow this trail zigzagging up to Nesselwängler Scharte
(beginning of Köllenspitze normal route).
Descend shortly on the south side until you reach the traverse trail number 415
. Follow this trail in western direction until you reach trail number 422
above the trail junction with trails 415 / 417
. Go on as described above.
The route is marked with red dots and some yellow triangles.
At the beginning (signpost and red arrow) scramble up easy rocks and follow the dots up to your right until you reach a ledge system to your left. Follow these ledges up to a first yellow triangle; this is the crux of the route - some 5 m of grade II moves. You then reach a steep chute system, scramble up these chutes (many loose rocks!) until you reach the huge scree and meadow ledge system below Gimpel southeast face.
Signpost at starting point First scrambling part Crux, grade II moves to yellow triangle
A narrow and steep trail zigzags up this part of the route. It disappears at some steep slabs leading up to the shoulder of the Gimpel east ridge (another yellow triangle).
On the east ridge shoulder you have great and airy views down to Raintal.
Chute system Chute system Steep hiking terrain
There again is a narrow trail on the right (northern) side of the ridge. Follow this trail up to a steeper rock section of the east ridge or just follow the ridge crest (more scrambling fun) to this rock section. This is another enjoying scramble part of the normal route. Go right at the upper end of that rock section and follow some steep rock chutes up to the summit.
East ridge to summit East ridge as seen from summit
The descent is on the same route. Be careful and look out for loose rocks in the middle scree and meadow section.
Gear & Mountain Condition
South face of Gimpel and Gimpelvorbau as seen from the normal route
Gimpel normal route is mainly a late spring, summer and autumn route. The route is marked with red signs.
You need normal hiking gear and a helmet
because of frequent rock fall. Crampons can be useful early in the year.
If you master UIAA grade I and II (one short part) you need no rope and belay. I haven´t seen any fixed bolts in 2012.
Maps & Guide Book
Meadow with a view, below Gimpel south face